how best to split 45 amp 3 ways?
- Thread starter pgtips
- Start date
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Yes.
Quite right but we apply what we call 'diversity' because the cooker elements will cycle on and off even when switched on.
The calculation is the first 10A plus 30% of the remainder.
That is 9000 / 240 = 37.5A. So - 27.5 x 0.3 = 8.25A + 10A = 5A (for socket) = 23.25A.
However, I am not sure how this would apply to a hob which limits the current drawn to 13A.
I would think it is likely to be 13A for much of the time with more than one ring on.
Nevertheless 13A for oven, 13A for hob plus the washing machine (which I suspect will be 8A at the most) plus 5A for the socket is 39A.
Strictly speaking this is too much but might be alright considering the available diversity - OR -
You could run a 4mm² cable from the 45A switch and run it to three sockets for the oven, hob and WM. It would then be a socket circuit and perfectly acceptable even though little different.
After all, if you already had plenty of convenient sockets in the kitchen, you might have just plugged in the three items and thought nothing of it.
What you are missing is what is called 'diversity'. A single item, might draw it's full current rating, but an oven is not classed as a single item, it has multiple rings, multiple elements and not all will usually on and drawing current at the same time - that is where 'diversity' comes in as a factor.
Likewise, your three outlets will not all be turned on and drawing a full 13 amp at the same time, so 'diversity' applies. Your 32 amps can actually support 2.25 of the three outlets drawing their full rated 13 amp load - ample.
Exactly.
It will be fine.
A regular 32 amp kitchen ring will support a 13 amp hob, 13 amp oven, 13 amp washing machine - and a lot more than that such as microwave, kettle, dishwasher, etc, etc.
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I agree. As you imply (and although the guidance in the OSG does not acknowledge this) I would say that a current-limited appliance (even if a 'cooking appliance') invalidates the concept of diversity.
However, as you also go on to imply, in terms of the OP's 'big picture', I don't think that the difference between 10.9A and 13A is anything to get excited about! As has been said, his circuit is adequate for his requirements.
Kind Regards, John
I'm afraid you're wrong. Since, by convention, " it's " is an abbreviation for "it is", we do not use the apostrophe to indicate possession (as we normally would)
Kind Regards, John
So I see - just had a lesson on Google.I'm afraid you're wrong. Since, by convention, " it's " is an abbreviation for "it is", we do not use the apostrophe to indicate possession (as we normally would)
Kind Regards, John
Never knew that.
You learn something everyday.
Nor "his", "hers", "yours", "ours" or "theirs".
However "there's" is a different story.
However "there's" is a different story.
The car cannot move, there is a boulder in its way.
The car cannot move, there is a boulder in John's way.
This sort of sentence made me think an apostrophe should have been used in the first sentence - until today.
The car cannot move, there is a boulder in John's way.
This sort of sentence made me think an apostrophe should have been used in the first sentence - until today.
Is it a gas hob? A UK plug can hold a fuse rated at up to 13Amps. The majority of appliances connected to them do not draw 13Amps.
Thank you everyone, I will print these, it's (it has !) helped to understand.
In terms of tails out from original cable run I looked into dual appliance outlets.
Using one of these run one 2.5mm outlet side straight to washing machine plug and other side to cooker switch (only a switch, not a plug combo type) also using 2.5mm cable, then from switch down to 2 sockets.
The existing cooker wire is bigger so it must be 4mm. I'll measure but it is definitely heavier gauge than normal 2.5 socket wire so I assume next size up is 4mm.
Thank you again for the knowledgeable replies, very much appreciated.
Kevin
In terms of tails out from original cable run I looked into dual appliance outlets.
Using one of these run one 2.5mm outlet side straight to washing machine plug and other side to cooker switch (only a switch, not a plug combo type) also using 2.5mm cable, then from switch down to 2 sockets.
The existing cooker wire is bigger so it must be 4mm. I'll measure but it is definitely heavier gauge than normal 2.5 socket wire so I assume next size up is 4mm.
Thank you again for the knowledgeable replies, very much appreciated.
Kevin
Last edited:
Hello. No it's an electric hob, give me a moment I'll find a link (search Google for plug in hob, they are normally induction)
One of the benefits is they are actually low power and given the situation in the world right now it's a plus, takes longer to cook but less energy
Here. An example of one, not the I've bought but similar
www.myappliances.co.uk
MyAppliances ART29212 60cm 13a Plug ECOboost Induction Hob
MyAppliances ART29212 60cm 13a Plug ECOboost Induction Hob
www.myappliances.co.uk
Not so. It is for those who do not have a cooker supply and want to plug it in to socket circuit.
As you say. it takes longer but ends up using the same amount overall.
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