How Bodged is My Kitchen Extract


1. Heat​

Despite its name, regular off-the-shelf duct tape is not a good choice for sealing or repairing heating and ventilation ducts. The heat softens the adhesive, causes it to lose its strength and slip from the attachment. It also carries no safety certification, which means it may burn and produce toxic smoke. (For that reason duct tape is not allowed at all on ducts in states such as California.)

As an alternative, consider All Purpose Aluminum Foil Tape, which works up to 248° F and is flame-retardant

2. Water​

Duct tape is water resistant, not waterproof. It will work in a pinch until a more permanent solution can be applied, but over time the adhesion will peel away when completely submerged in water.

Consider All Leak Repair Tape instead; a permanent adhesive that forms a watertight seal and works in both extreme heat and cold.

3. Temporary Repairs​

Think twice about using duct tape for temporary uses such as sealing a windowpane or hanging plastic sheeting. In certain situations, it makes an excellent stopgap until a more permanent solution can be applied. But this type of adhesive will leave behind a sticky residue when removed.

A better option would be All Purpose Repair Tape, which maintains a strong grip while removing cleanly from any surface

4. Uneven Surfaces​

Standard duct tape has a thin layer of adhesive so it adheres best to smooth, even surfaces. Applying it to rough or irregular surfaces means the tape will only make contact with the high points thereby lessening the strength of its bond.

Consider Outdoor Stucco Duct Tape; a thicker layer of adhesive means it’s able to connect with more surface area and maintain a stronger hold.

5. Cold​

If you’re working in cold conditions, repairing vinyl siding or refrigeration hoses, duct tape is not the answer. Extreme cold hardens the adhesive and diminishes sticking power of existing duct tape. And if you are applying the tape under cold conditions, it may not stick at all.

We have a number of cold-weather solutions, but All Weather Repair Tape lasts in temperatures as low as -30°F!

6. UV Light​

Over time exposure to sunlight will cause duct tape’s adhesive to dry out and become brittle or delaminate. For outdoor projects that require tape, it’s best to choose one that’s been treated to resist the effects of ultraviolet light, like Premium Grade Stucco Duct Tape.
Those conditions apply to most tapes especially wet and heat.

Duct tape is good on plastic ducting. It was made for it.
 
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Proper 'insulation tape' will last years and years. Its designed to.
The two tackiest I've used are foil tape and visqueen tape. Both are very difficult to use and not always practical when wrapping a cylindrical object.
 
Your "knows-all" advice to your customers contradicts what the manufacturers state.

Back on-topic, I'd suggest rigid ducting with sealant on all the joints. Seal only the male joint halves, so it gets squeezed out rather than in, which would form a ridge inside the ducting. You'll get a much better flow rate, due to the lack of needless kinks and corners but also because the flexible ducting resists airflow as a result of the turbulence caused by its bumpy inner surface.

Also if, as is more common than many homeowners know, there are rats and mice in the loft then they'll chew through flexible ducting to see what's inside and whether it's a nice place to build a nest. This will result in damp extracted air being blown into the loft causing condensation, smells and rot. My mum's is a pretty new house, no holes anywhere in the building but I found a huge dead rat in her loft. It's terraced, so they can find their way in via any neighbour. They can get in through a build-in garage, a meter box, an unsealed pipe hole, basically any tiny hole somewhere in any adjoining house.
 
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Some shocking news for you... Dog food and Baby food are not made from dogs or babies.

Duct tape is named because of a weird accident of history. You've been misled by the name.
 
I think the analogy might have broken down somewhere for me.. If dog food is food for dogs, and baby food is food for babies, wouldn't duct tape be tape for ducts?

Thought food, perhaps

I'll carry on sealing my air tightness/VCL membranes with Pro Clima
 
On electrical connections, (industrial), we used to use a tape called Empire Tape. It was a sticky rubber tape that you pulled tightly around the joint and it amalgamated over time. Never been able to unwind it once set, (usually within 24hours or less), which means it is on for life and perfectly seals against ingress of anything, including water to at least 10m depth.
Other versions are simply known as amalgamation tape. Never used these ones, just the original Empire. (It's also good for ducting. ;) )
 
Mainly because ownership of the roof is shared so I can't go making changes easily without consulting all the neighbours. Plus, a vertical exit shouldn't be a problem either if it's done properly.

Hey AkiraDIY did you not know that you can post your images direct into the forum?
That way they will be available to all viewing here.
I thought the photo's were viewable by all. I only uploaded to an image hosting site because they were being displayed too big when I uploaded directly to the forum. I didn't see any option to thumbnail them.

While the debate on duct tape is useful and all, it doesn't really answer the original question of whether or not I can call the builder back to fix that mess or if the contract has been completed as agreed, minus leaving the rubbish lying around.
 
I wouldn't want someone who did that sort of job to return, whether paid or not.

Get someone else in.
I share the same thought but at the same time, I cannot say "I'm not paying for that mess and I'm also not giving you a chance to fix it" either. I assume I got to give them a chance to fix it or remove the rubbish at the very least.

I'll give them the benefit of the doubt and say the blue fan was broken before they started work. The original contract was for UPVC ducting and they amended the contract post work to say UPVC and flexible ducting. I'm debating asking them to just remove the rubbish and give a discount since it wasn't agreed to use flexible ducting and the length used is considerably longer than the regs recommended.

I'd then fix the rest myself and bypass the blue fan and use rigid ducting with a condensate drain. I can borrow a vane anemometer from my old work and calculate the air changes to see if the blue fan is needed after that or if I can rip it out. My only concern would be that any condensate drain pipework would be virtually horizontal until it drops vertically to drain, although if any condensate were to accumulate, the head should push it through to drain and not backup in the duct.
 
Those conditions apply to most tapes especially wet and heat.

Duct tape is good on plastic ducting. It was made for it.

Been doing some research on building regs for ducting and found this:

Building Standards Division: Domestic Technical Handbook June 2023 said:
Connection of lengths of flexible duct must use a rigid connector and jubilee clips or similar to ensure a long term seal is achieved. Connections of lengths of flexible duct should not be taped only.
So whether or not duct tape is suitable is irrelevant, tape alone is not according to regulation. When I pay a professional builder professional rates, I expect stuff to be done to regulation. If I wanted cowboy, I'd pay cheap or do it myself.
 
Been doing some research on building regs for ducting and found this:


So whether or not duct tape is suitable is irrelevant, tape alone is not according to regulation. When I pay a professional builder professional rates, I expect stuff to be done to regulation. If I wanted cowboy, I'd pay cheap or do it myself.
Jubilee clips are rubbish on rectangular ducting.
 
Don't let principles get in the way. Anyone who does the sort of job you've got shouldn't be allowed back through your door.

Live and learn, move on and find someone else who can do the job, or DIY.
 

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