I know I should know this but can some one clarify for me...

[oharaf]

Right I am now going to put these in our house as the wife refuses to turn ANYTHING off, never done one!!!!

I have read the instructions but i'm still humming and haring a bit.

Q1. Do I completely disconnect the switch drop and replace with 3core & Earth from the ceiling rose to the PIR

OR

Q2 Can I connect the switch drop at L and L1 and then run through to lamp.


Q3 Will the 2nd method allow me to use the light switch as well as the PIR

or am I being a complete arse!!!!!

Mant thanks, Sunday morning and not had a day off in a week brain cell has gone fuzzy

 

[hairyben]

brain cell has gone fuzzy

Yes. What are we talking about?

 

[il78]

I maybe missing something, I know your fitting a PIR but what type?

 

[XtraRaptor]

Hi, I am assuming you are meaning occupation detectors, we have those fitted to out hall and landing lights, they are in parrallel to the existing switches, so if needed we can over-ride the sensor and have the lights on "manually" if we want to, they are good.

I ran a cable from the rose to the sensor, L & N and switch live.



Nick.

 

[Steve]

Dont let the express know you're fitting these, cos they'll run a story about how they cause cancer, kill seals and penguins, make us sick, give us headaches etc. next.

 

[davelx]

If the ordinary switches are in parallel with the PIR, how to you "isolate" the fitting to change the lamp? With this arrangement it is likely that the lamp fitting will be live all the time unless you turn of the main DP isolator. I don't think one should rely on the PIR being in the "off" state.

(I say "isolate" because even though normal light switches are only single pole, as are most domestic MCBs, I bet most people don't turn off their main DP switch to change a lamp, and breaking the live side is better than nothing)

 

[hairyben]

If the ordinary switches are in parallel with the PIR, how to you "isolate" the fitting to change the lamp? With this arrangement it is likely that the lamp fitting will be live all the time unless you turn of the main DP isolator. I don't think one should rely on the PIR being in the "off" state.

(I say "isolate" because even though normal light switches are only single pole, as are most domestic MCBs, I bet most people don't turn off their main DP switch to change a lamp, and breaking the live side is better than nothing)

Some PIR occupancy switches have on/off/auto selectors. It may help if the OP posts a link to what he's contemplating fitting...

It's not worth fitting cheap OD's, they'll be a pain, and evan better ones aren't ideal, usefull for hallways etc but not so good in living rooms. My solution to my flatmates leaving all the lights burning 24/7 was just to whack CFL's in everywhere.

 

[XtraRaptor]

When I change a lamp, I generally wet both my hands, stand in a bucket of salt water, remove the old lamp, check that there are no obstructions (using my wet hands) then if I can still focus, I fit the new lamp...



Nick.

 

[oharaf]

Sorry guys its one of these

http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;j...tton.x=0&searchbutton.y=0&searchbutton=submit

They are going in the hall and landing first, these are the main areas she cannot operate light switches in.

So option 1 or option 2?

thanks fellas

 

[Adam_151]

If it were me, I'd fit these so they operated in effect as a second switch in series with the wall switch, so you turn the light on and off as normal, but if you vacate the room, they light willl go off

So three core and earth, Brown to L, sleeve grey as Blue and connect to N, sleeve black as brown and connect to L1, and leave the bridge link in.

The other end, sleeve the wires up the same and connect Brown to the switch wire returning from the wall (but separate the live to the lamp from this), Grey (sleeved as blue) to the Neutrals, and Black (as sleved brown) to the live side of the lamp. Obviously earth sleeved as earth and connected to earth both ends.

Don't fit the shroud back onto the OS until you have played around and got the delay time right.... they can be awkward to pop off again sometimes I find

 

[XtraRaptor]

If it were me, I'd fit these so they operated in effect as a second switch in series with the wall switch, so you turn the light on and off as normal, but if you vacate the room, they light willl go off

So three core and earth, Brown to L, sleeve grey as Blue and connect to N, sleeve black as brown and connect to L1, and leave the bridge link in.

The other end, sleeve the wires up the same and connect Brown to the switch wire returning from the wall (but separate the live to the lamp from this), Grey (sleeved as blue) to the Neutrals, and Black (as sleved brown) to the live side of the lamp. Obviously earth sleeved as earth and connected to earth both ends.

Don't fit the shroud back onto the OS until you have played around and got the delay time right.... they can be awkward to pop off again sometimes I find

Would be better as the first switch in series, as it will go into test mode when power is first applied to it.

Nick.

 

[oharaf]

So like this???

Sorry about the diagram

Thanks guys

Untitled

• oharaf
• 15 Mar 2009
• 1

 

[laughingjester]

ooops

 

[oharaf]

??????????????????????????????????

 

[333rocky333]

Looks to me as if you have parralelled the switch, with the sensor, if the switch is left on then the light will also stay on.