I want to remove a 3 pin round lamp socket - how??

I've ony changed one of the sockets so far, wired up exactly as the last one was.
Is the plate screw on that socket screwing into the brown wire that is positioned behind the screw lug?
Can I earth the metal plate using one of the earth wires at the back of the box?
You can either fit all the earth wires from the back box earth terminal to the switches earth terminal. Or run a 1.0mm² earth wire from the back box earth terminal to the earth terminal on the switch.

I don't think the plate screw is screwing into the brown wire, there's no evidence that it is anyways.

As for the earthing of the switch, if I connect all the earth wires to the switch that would then leave none attached to the back box. Is that right? I thought one had to go to the back box as well?
 
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If you are posh you can run a wire to the back box from the front plate, but a box that can't be touched in normal service is permitted to be earthed by the front plates screws as long as the box has at least one fixed lug. You are not permitted to do it the other way around and earth a front plate via the plate screws.

If you were to use only one of the wires from the back box instead of moving them all to the fron terminal you would leave part of the lighting circuit in an unsafe condition as part of the circuit could be left without a proper earth connection if:
The plate screws corroded.
The box lugs corroded.
The plate screws were to become loose at any time.
Someone was to release the switch plate from the wall for decorating.
 
If you are posh you can run a wire to the back box from the front plate, but a box that can't be touched in normal service is permitted to be earthed by the front plates screws as long as the box has at least one fixed lug. You are not permitted to do it the other way around and earth a front plate via the plate screws.

If you were to use only one of the wires from the back box instead of moving them all to the fron terminal you would leave part of the lighting circuit in an unsafe condition as part of the circuit could be left without a proper earth connection if:
The plate screws corroded.
The box lugs corroded.
The plate screws were to become loose at any time.
Someone was to release the switch plate from the wall for decorating.

Ok thanks, I'll move all the earths to the faceplate.

And I've just had a closer look and found an indentation on the live in the socket from the plate screw with some wire exposed!

I've got to head out now, when I come back I'll shorten the wire and re-wire the socket up.

Thanks again for your help. Much appreciated!
 
And I've just had a closer look and found an indentation on the live in the socket from the plate screw with some wire exposed!

That is likely the fault causing the electric to trip. There is a good chance the dimmer is now blown.
 
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And I've just had a closer look and found an indentation on the live in the socket from the plate screw with some wire exposed!

That is likely the fault causing the electric to trip. There is a good chance the dimmer is now blown.

I've re-wired the socket, trimmed the lives so they're shorter and don't get touched by the plate screws. Also moved the earths of the dimmer switch.

Main lights work on the dimmer switch, not sure if the dimmer that controls the sockets is working yet as I haven't a lamp yet that fits the socket.

In terms of the dimmer being blown - would one switch work and not the other? Or can I assume that the fact the main light works means the dimmer switch is also still working?
 
The sockets dimmer is the only one that would be damaged. I take it it is not tripping now you have re-done the socket?

Plug in a lamp to check the dimmer. If the lamp is always at full brightness and doesn't dim at all the dimmer has blown and will need to be swapped.

If the lamp doesn't light at all, or it trips the electrics only when a lamp is plugged in let us know, as I still think there is one last piece of the puzzle left to do...
 
The sockets dimmer is the only one that would be damaged. I take it it is not tripping now you have re-done the socket?

Plug in a lamp to check the dimmer. If the lamp is always at full brightness and doesn't dim at all the dimmer has blown and will need to be swapped.

If the lamp doesn't light at all, or it trips the electrics only when a lamp is plugged in let us know, as I still think there is one last piece of the puzzle left to do...

Nothing is tripping, but I can't check the socket until I get a plug and a lamp (we're renovating the living room and have yet to buy furniture).

I'll get a lamp asap and check it. To be honest if it lights the lamp but doesn't dim it I'll just keep it as it is, the main reason I kept the sockets was to free up a normal power outlet. I'm not bothered about it dimming.
 
image.jpg

I was going to start a new thread for this, but before that I do that I thought I'd try resurrecting this old one due to the fantastic advice I got first time round....

As explained in the earlier posts, and shown in photo above, my initial intention was to remove the 3 pin round sockets, but I decided against it and replaced the original tatty white ones with brushed steel ones to match the other power sockets I've changed.

I'm now in a position to start using the round pin sockets, and have bought some round pin plugs from screwfix - 5amp, no fuse.

The two lamps I want to use have 3 pin fused plugs on - do I simply cut these off and replace with the round pin none-fused plugs? Why do the round pin plugs not need fuses?

Photo above shows the current set up, with the lamp plugged into a normal power outlet, which I'll free up by using then round pin socket.

Any help greatly appreciated! :)
 
Why do the round pin plugs not need fuses?

Because round pin sockets are normally protected by the MCB/Fuse for the lighting circuit from what they are fed off. Otherwise the round pin sockets should be protected by a FCU with a fuse ratting no higher than 5 Amp.

You may also be able to get a 5 amp round pin plug what is fused, but I have never seen one myself and don't know if they even exist.
 
The two lamps I want to use have 3 pin fused plugs on - do I simply cut these off and replace with the round pin none-fused plugs? Why do the round pin plugs not need fuses?

Because they (should) be on circuits that are adequately fused not on 32 amp ring finals. Plugs in most other countries don't have fuses for the same reason.
 
You may also be able to get a 5 amp round pin plug what is fused, but I have never seen one myself and don't know if they even exist.

They are available - I think they are used in hospitals, though I'm not sure what for. However note that they are made to an earlier BS spec. dating from the 1950's and don't have sleeved pins so would not be compliant with the regs for domestic use:
http://www.neweysonline.co.uk/mk+el...e%2c+5a/1050078116/ProductInformation.raction
 
You may also be able to get a 5 amp round pin plug what is fused, but I have never seen one myself and don't know if they even exist.

They are available - I think they are used in hospitals, though I'm not sure what for. However note that they are made to an earlier BS spec. dating from the 1950's and don't have sleeved pins so would not be compliant with the regs for domestic use:
http://www.neweysonline.co.uk/mk+electric+round+pin+plug%2c+three+pin%2c+fused%2c+white%2c+5a/1050078116/ProductInformation.raction
Hughie, that's untrue - neither of them said the things you claim.
 

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