IKEA Ansluta transformer not working

[determined-to-diy]

Hi folks

I am having a problem with my IKEA transformer. The lights will not stay on, they just blink on and off completely (not flicker) on for half a second and off for half a second, and the transformer buzzes.

I purchased an Ansulta transformer from IKEA for wardrobe lights. It is a 30w transformer. 210-240 V

I then purchased 6 lights:

- 3 OMLOPP (5.3 watts each)
- 3 Lindshult (2 watts each)

According to Ikea all these lights should work with their transformer. The transformer can take 10 lights and based on the individual wattage they should be fine.

One issue may be that the Ansluta transformer works off a plug, but I cut the plug off and wired it up to a 2 gang switch. (IKEA themselves said this would be ok to do) We have done this a few times before with Kitchen under-cabinet lights and had no problems. Each time the electrics have been certified as safe.

I think it is a faulty transformer, but wanted to see if anyone else has had similar problems? Any advice would be appreciated

Cheers

Read more: //www.diynot.com/diy/threads/ikea-ansluta-transformer-and-lights.470952/#ixzz4Q4yQqQLB

 

[bernardgreen]

The "transformer" appears to be a switch mode power supply producing a nominal 12 volt (?) output. This is likely to have a lot of high frequency voltage variations and not be smooth DC.

The drivers in the lamps are also switched mode power supplies but producing a nominal steady current for the LED elements.

Switch mode power supplies can become unstable if supplied from a DC supply that has high frequency variation in voltage.

Electronic "transformers" can also become unstable if the load they are supplying varies at high frequency as is the case with some LED drivers.

 

[endecotp]

The "transformer" appears to be a switch mode power supply producing a nominal 12 volt (?) output. This is likely to have a lot of high frequency voltage variations and not be smooth DC.

Bernard, what do you mean by "lots"? Sure you can see the switching frequency and its harmonics if you look carefully on a spectrum analyser, but unless the power supply is actually faulty those components will be small enough that they won't have any effect on anything.

 

[endecotp]

One issue may be that the Ansluta transformer works off a plug, but I cut the plug off and wired it up to a 2 gang switch.

What is the switch connected to?
Is there a fuse somewhere? (The plug had a fuse in it. You probably need to have something equivalent. This is a safety issue, but it wouldn't cause the problem you're seeing.)

I think it is a faulty transformer

Either you've done something wrong or something is faulty.
Does it work with fewer lamps connected?

 

[determined-to-diy]

Thanks for getting back to me Bernard.

Therefore Ikea were wrong to suggest we could cut the plug off and link to mains switch?

Would you advise I purchase a new transformer that does permit a direct linkage to DC supply in the same way we did for the kitchen (non-IKEA)?

Matter of curiosity, what would be the difference in using the original plug which would be plugged into the mains socket (which is higher voltage). Appreciate the plug is fused, but surely the transformer is designed to take in DC supply with high voltage?

Appreciate your help

 

[determined-to-diy]

Hi endecotp.

The wire set up is:

- cut off wires (where plug was) go into a junction box (live to live, neutral to neutral), No earth on transformer wires.
- then twin core and earth feeds from junction box into the 2 gang switch (live to L1, neutral into a terminal block with mains neutral and earth to earth)
- Then through to the breaker box per usual.

To answer your question the only fuse on the link is the breaker.

That is a question I just asked bernardgreen funnily enough, whether the original fuse in the plug had any effect, which I don't understand?

I can easily fit a fused junction box as alternative if you think that will have an effect.

I have not tried fewer lights in the transformer, but will tonight when I get home (currently at work). But it is designed to work with 10 lights.

Thanks

 

[endecotp]

Hi endecotp.

The wire set up is:

- cut off wires (where plug was) go into a junction box (live to live, neutral to neutral), No earth on transformer wires.
- then twin core and earth feeds from junction box into the 2 gang switch (live to L1, neutral into a terminal block with mains neutral and earth to earth)
- Then through to the breaker box per usual.

To answer your question the only fuse on the link is the breaker.

Which circuit is this? (Sockets? Lighting?) What is the rating of the MCB for this circuit in the fuse box? What is the rating of the fuse in the plug you've cut off?

Note that this is a safety issue - but it won't be the cause of the flashing and buzzing problem.

 

[endecotp]

Therefore Ikea were wrong to suggest we could cut the plug off and link to mains switch?

No, they were not wrong; I think Bernard's idea that this power supply is somehow incompatible with the lamps is incorrect.
My guess is that either something is broken - either the transformer or a lamp - or there is a problem with your wiring. Trying a simpler arangement with e.g. just the transformer and one of the lamps will perhaps help to clarify.

 

[determined-to-diy]

Hi

It is lighting circuit. Sorry took that for granted because it is connected to a light switch. But I appreciate you would get various on this site and I did not specify above.

MCB is 6 amp.

Plug is 3 amp

Thanks again

 

[determined-to-diy]

No, they were not wrong; I think Bernard's idea that this power supply is somehow incompatible with the lamps is incorrect.
My guess is that either something is broken - either the transformer or a lamp - or there is a problem with your wiring. Trying a simpler arangement with e.g. just the transformer and one of the lamps will perhaps help to clarify.

I admit that did confuse me, because that logic is no different to what we did in our kitchen and my in-laws kitchen using B&Q products.

In those instances we followed same approach by cutting plug off and only used junction box (non fused) to wire through to lighting circuit via a switch

I can try only one lamp when I get home tonight.

Thanks

 

[endecotp]

Some might argue that you should have a 3A fuse somewhere, e.g. in an FCU.
Others will point out that a 6A MCB would probably trip more quickly than a 3A fuse and so be safer.

 

[determined-to-diy]

Some might argue that you should have a 3A fuse somewhere, e.g. in an FCU.
Others will point out that a 6A MCB would probably trip more quickly than a 3A fuse and so be safer.

It would be no problem for me to switch the junction box for a 3 amp FCU, easily accessible. I'll test the single lamp option in a couple of hours and get back to you.

I have already contacted Ikea and they are geared up for me to return the transformer if indeed it is faulty. But so long as my wiring is correct I am tempted to get something from Denmans or Screwfix instead, which will be more reliable.

Appreciate your help

 

[endecotp]

I honestly wouldn't bet on "something from Screwfix" being better than "something from IKEA".

 

[determined-to-diy]

I honestly wouldn't bet on "something from Screwfix" being better than "something from IKEA".

haha ...... perhaps you are right, fair point

Ok I tested the lights and up to 3 works fine, beyond that the on/off starts. Just can't understand it.

Like I say, Ikea say up to 10 should work and for both types of light they state on the website and in-store that the transformer I have is the correct one.

Any thoughts?

Cheers

 

[bernardgreen]

Sure you can see the switching frequency and its harmonics if you look carefully on a spectrum analyser, but unless the power supply is actually faulty those components will be small enough that they won't have any effect on anything.

As it happens I have just looked at the "12 volt DC" supplied by an unbranded "electronic transformer" on an oscilloscope. It alternates between 11.3 and 13.9 volts at approx 1.7kHz. on minimum load ( resistive ) the mark space ratio of the two values is such that the average is 12.3 volts. Increasing the load ( resistive ) reduces the 11.3 to 10.4 and the 13.9 to 12.8 at maximum load. The mark space ratio alters to create an average of 11.8 volts.

It had been bought to power a medium wave radio but the spurious radiation from it knocked out all but the strongest radio signals.

If I have time tomorrow I will try some other loads including LED drivers. Then I will open it up to see how well it is made.