Is circuit/wiring for Hob ok?

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Hi.

Am currently doing up my kitchen and wish to ensure the electric supply to my hob are is ok.

Currently, the 6mm gets to my hob via grey box above CU (45a). It powers only a hob at the moment via an isolation switch located in an inaccesable place below worktop.


What i would like to do ideally, is move the switch up to above the worktop and also use it to power a cooker which is a plug and play 13a single fan.

Been informed of this:

http://www.alertelectrical.com/Wiri...asyfit-Dual-Appliance-Outlet-Plate-PRW217.asp

Which im assuming can feed the hob and also a socket fed by short 6mm for me to plug the 13a oven into (located behind the oven).

Is the current setup ok to allow this or do i need to be considering other alternatives?

The other thing to note is that yes the grey box with dolly down does isolate the hob but also the MCB for shower turns it off too!

So, im open to suggestions. Im thinking what i should do is change the grey box for an RCD but again, im not sure.

Advice welcomed.
 
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If the grey box is supplied from one of the 30A MCBs below, then you can replace the grey box with an RCD, and use the double outlet plate and socket arrangement behind the cooker, with an isolation switch above the worktop.

Does the 'shower' MCB just supply this cooker circuit, or is there a shower as well?
 
Theres a shower in upstairs bathroom. The 30a MCB trips the shower.

Im assuming that power to the 45a cooker radial has been supplied via the same outlet on the CU?

That to me sounds somewhat not right or even possibly dangerous?
 
I have noticed , on the odd occasion, that if the shower is in use upstairs and for example, the missus is using the hob to do sunday dinner with all the pans on it etc - the shower MCB has been known to open and cut the shower off.

It wasnt till this morning that i twigged that the current setup may not be quite right.

IMHO, (and i dunno how it would be done) but the hob feed should somehow be run seperate....i mean direct to the grey box and not via the shower MCB on the CU.
 
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The shower and cooker should be on separate MCBs.

There is no space left in the consumer unit and even if there was, it would be no use since it would be overloaded.

One option is to fit a smaller CU for the cooker only, but you will then need an isolator fitted between the meter and the 2 consumer units to provide a single main switch.

What you have is no good, since both circuits must be at least 6mm, and there is NO way anyone could get 2x6mm into the terminals on a Wylex board like that. Probably find that the wires have been trimmed down to fit. Also possible that the contacts have been damaged by the excessive load.
 
Right.... :(

Obviously the current set up is not good.

Think the whole CU could do with replacing really.

Whats your opinion on leaving as it is for the time being (i know its not ideal however money limits what i can and cant do).

Im looking into getting a home renovation grant as ive been told that old electrics including the CU etc will be checked and updated accordingly.
Id rather , if poss, leave that expense to a grant rather than me fork it out.

Yes, its sometimes a pain that the shower trips but ive lived with that for many years.

Regarding my plan to run cooker and hob from the hob circuit obviously bites the dust?

In lieu of that being the case, if i dont alter the hob wiring (bar putting an isolating switch above the worktop) and then, for the cooker, extend into the socket ring to include a 13a FCU down to a socket for the cooker to be plugged into.

Would i still be well advised to change the grey box for an RCD device? If so - which one?

Not the best solution i know in terms of how it SHOULD be done - i guess all i would be doing is just putting the cooker on FCU and leaving the rest as it is on the whole.

Any advice welcomed.
 
Just had a look at the CU. Looks to me like there is two 6mm running from the shower MCB.


Obviously, one goes up to the shower and the other must go to the 45a fused switch box used to power the hob?
 
how many posts are you going to start and/or hijack about your cooker installation? This is a bad idea because different people are giving different advice and we dont all see the full story.

you're becoming tiresome.

I gave you advice which you questioned on another thread. Why would they sell the twin cooker outlet if it wasn't "legal"??? If you're doubting my advice I wont give it anymore. C ya.
 
how many posts are you going to start and/or hijack about your cooker installation? This is a bad idea because different people are giving different advice and we dont all see the full story.

you're becoming tiresome.

I gave you advice which you questioned on another thread. Why would they sell the twin cooker outlet if it wasn't "legal"??? If you're doubting my advice I wont give it anymore. C ya.

No need to get all narky steve! :eek:

I do appreciate your advice, honestly i do.

If ive hijacked a thread then i apologise. if i started a similar one i apolgise for that too...in fact why dont i just apologise for asking in the 1st place?

This is a forum isnt it? im not breaking a law am i?

Be thankful that im actually seeking advice because there are thousands out there who dont and thats how bad **** happens!

My aim is solely to clarify what i can or cant do. At the time of your advice, i wasnt aware that my shower MCB was also providing for the hob so in my mind ive done the RIGHT thing and ASKED AGAIN for advice.
 
nobody found anything strange new members posts
in the last couple of days Mmmm
i think someone is having a bit of fun
look back new members posts
 
Back to the topic of this post,

Looks to me like there is two 6mm running from the shower MCB

Yes that looks like it

I'll also point out the earthing conductors are not sleeved and also why are there two cables in the garage MCB (blue)?, one of which is black-all phase (live) conductors are red/brown!

If you look carefully at the main Neutral tail insulation (right hand side of picture) it looks as though it may be burnt/melted, although it may be just the picture quality.

Could you post another picture of the main switch area? Be careful round here and DONT touch anything since it is still live around at the top of the main switch even when off.

Regards
 
I noticed that too - regarding the garage MCB....dont ask me why its like that as its been like that since i moved in. What i do have in the garage is an old metal box with a metal lever on it to shut it off whilst inside the garage....perhaps its own little CU although rather old and i must say a bot rusty..its ok inside mind....big old fashioned fuse about 4 times the size of a plug fuse!

The tails themselves are old too.....they are covered in a kind of woven mesh orange looking in colour - presume 25+ years ago, thats how they were covered instead of PVC.

Yup, noticed too that none of the earths had sleeves, just bare! (good ole fashioned box this ya know! :LOL: )

What exactly dya wanna pic of? CU wiring with cover off? if your specific i can try get a better pic for ya's.

Cheers
 

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