Is this cedar kiln dried?.....

[mikeinthemidlands]

Hi all

I bought two dozen 3 metre lengths of western red cedar to make two fence/screen panels for my garden terrace. I specified kiln dried, planed on all sides No 2 grade clear and better but having taken delivery of the timber, I'm not 100% happy with it.

Firstly 3 or 4 of the timbers (4x1) are bowed and my understanding is that kiln dried timber should be straight! Secondly, I was expecting a smoother finish to the planed surface. There are some ladder marks from the plane and small chunks missing. I'm not so bothered about the bowing if that will be fixed when the panel is screwed together.

I've attached some photos. Am I being unreasonable or should I challenge the timber merchant on the quality? I don't want to have to start sanding all the boards to get a smooth finish (the terrace is really small so the timber will be very close so it needs to look good).

Any input on what I should paint it with would be much appreciated. I was thinking of using Osmo Extra Clear 420.

 

[Dave54]

"Kiln dried" is just the way the timber has been seasoned. Most timber, certainly softwood you buy these days is kiln dried. You can get the same faults with it as air dried. In the end, it depends well the timber drying process has been done, and also how it's been treated in storage.
Different timber merchants seem to have different ideas about what grade particular timber is.
The only answer really is to go somewhere you can pick your own boards. With very few exceptions I'd never trust a timber merchant to sort timber for me.
FWIW I wouldn't accept those marks down the side on PAR.

 

[^woody^]

Merchants might argue that kiln dried = less chance of bowing rather than no chance. But there is normally an expectation that they would be straight. But in context, they will straighten when fixed.

The machine marks seem to be on the rear face, so perhaps no argument there. There is only one face.

Slightly rough face surface might be natural, but if it's due to the processing, then you would have caused for complaint. But, in context, balance the time and effort of returning against a quick rub with a sander.

Edit

I've just noticed that these are PAR sections not cladding . In which case there should be no machine marks. Nor those knots across the section. Nor bowing.

 

[mikeinthemidlands]

Thanks guys

I had the worst of the boards replaced and I gave them a quick sanding and they look great now after two coats of Osmo 420.

Thanks for your advice.

Mikeinthemidlands