Making this joint as strong as possible?

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Would you glue and screw ply either side? Bolt it through?

It’s going to eng up being a roof with no cross bracing.

Thanks

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Skip to 2:30 for adding hardwood splines...


...and as big of a plywood gusset either side as you can fit in there without losing too much headroom.

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I think I would balls up the spline but could definitely do the gussets.

How else could you join them before adding the gussets? A few big screws
 
A half lap joint is a reasonably strong joint.

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With your join not being 90°, it makes it a bit trickier to work out the angles, but it's do-able with just a circular saw and a chisel. A sliding mitre saw with trenching facility(i.e. depth stop) would be even better.
 
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Can't. You build a ridge then fit the timbers against that?

I could but one side would sit on the top of a upvc triangle. I could make a double one just inside the upvc to hold a ridge. The ridge would be 1.2mtrs long.
 
Support it on the inside with a bit of vertical timber the same size , under the ridge, then clad both sides with a piece either side longeras side support . If looks are important, cover it with upvc

The strength will come when it is all assembled- a bit like a boat
 
ideally you need to make it more off an "A" frame both with ply and a cross bit near the bottom but could be as little as 2ft from the top but the further down the better to stop it bellying out

and top tip
accurately draw the outline off the "A" frames on the floor[a rod]
lay the components on the rod lightly pinned or screwed if it helps but not crutial
screw the ply plates on one side
flip and do the ply on the other side
if they are within say 5mm when flipped then they are 2.5 give or take and can be used as is
any more but less than 20mm mark front and back and always have them the same way round
if theres any discrepancy in timber size always go to the top off the line accurately when lining up to the rod for the best easiest results
 
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So if I made one, then drew around it on a sheet of plasterboard to make sure the others are exactly the same?

Any horizontal bit I add on would be in the room. The first will be bolted to a wall and the last fixed to the window frame so only 2 will be unsupported.

It’s going on 4 brick pillars, 2 are attached to the house and 2 free standing. The free standing ones are 2 bricks x 1.5 bricks and have some steel vertically between the bricks and blocks so i’m sure it’s pretty strong. I’m just trying to avoid the roof ever pushing the pillars outwards. Having said that there will be a door and windows between the pillars which should also add some strength.
 
If it were a complete triangle the bottom would be 272cm wide and the peak 1.15mtrs high.
 
remember the bottom cord assuming a workshop is a brilliant storage area for you timber
adjusting just above head height gives you maximum storage
indeed with led lighting you can be so much closer to head height in a workshop with maximum storage above with lower bottom cords
is this a family space with say a ceiling or a work area with easy open storage above ??
 

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