Moved house, not familiar with this heating system. How does it work, best set up?

[JonathanM]

Did you check the motorised valve isn't manually latched ?

Maybe there's just no demand from the cylinder stat? If the water has been heating unintentionally?

 

[terryplumb]

Maybe there's no demand from the cylinder stat?

As I understood the boiler isnt firing up for either heating or hot water

 

[JonathanM]

As I understood the boiler isnt firing up for either heating or hot water

I think it has been most of the day, and heating both. Heating the water unintentionally.

 

[terryplumb]

I think it has been most of the day, and heating both. Heating the water unintentionally.

Thats as maybe ,but since altering the switch at programmer from gravity to fully pumped the boiler is dead as I understand

 

[JonathanM]

Thats as maybe ,but since altering the switch at programmer from gravity to fully pumped the boiler is dead as I understand

Oh, I see. I thought the OP had only tried it on hot water, but on reading it again, I can see you are correct.

 

[Dutch85]

Did you check the motorised valve isn't manually latched ?

It could be moved, but had resistence and would return back to its original position.

 

[Dutch85]

Thats as maybe ,but since altering the switch at programmer from gravity to fully pumped the boiler is dead as I understand

Yep dead as a dodo.

Oh, I see. I thought the OP had only tried it on hot water, but on reading it again, I can see you are correct.

Strangely since switching to "P" the valve has returned to the heating only position.
I'm thinking the programmer wall plate has been wired in wrong and that getting a newer programmer won't solve the issue?

 

[terryplumb]

Are you capable of using a multimeter to check voltages present at the wiring centre ?
If not ,you are going to need a central heating engineer to visit.

 

[Dutch85]

Are you capable of using a multimeter to check voltages present at the wiring centre ?
If not ,you are going to need a central heating engineer to visit.

It's not something I'd attempt to be honest.
This is the wiring behind the wall plate...

 

[Dutch85]

With it back in "G" mode this morning, I tried the hot water only, the valve was in the "W" position. Turned the hot water off then put heating on, the valve moved to "M" and stayed there until I turned the heating off, it returned back to "W".

Is it possibly the fault could be at the valve end?
OR more likely to be that someone has messed up the wiring, realised their mistake and bodged it up in "G" mode at the programmer?

 

[terryplumb]

That's not wired correctly for a Y plan set up with a 3 port valve ,there is no connection for Hot water being satisfied. Is there no thermostat on your hot water cylinder ?
When you tried hot water only this morning ,and valve was in W position ,I assume boiler didn't fire up ?
Edit...just seen pic of cylinder and it does have a thermostat fitted.

 

[Dutch85]

That's not wired correctly for a Y plan set up with a 3 port valve ,there is no connection for Hot water being satisfied. Is there no thermostat on your hot water cylinder ?
When you tried hot water only this morning ,and valve was in W position ,I assume boiler didn't fire up ?
Edit...just seen pic of cylinder and it does have a thermostat fitted.

The boiler did fire up... The radiators heated up too.
Is it possible the drayton ma1 could be seated incorrectly on the valve? Ie the valve position doesn't match up with what's being displayed at the side W, M, H for example the unit is indicating that hot water mode is on but the valve is in the position for both hot water and heating.
Is that easy to rectify?

 

[stem]

OR more likely to be that someone has messed up the wiring, realised their mistake and bodged it up in "G" mode at the programmer?

That would be my theory also.

As per @terryplumb you are missing the hot water off connection from the programmer. However, there is also a second source for a hot water off signal and that's your cylinder thermostat.

With heating and hot water both set to 'on at the programmer, if you turn the cylinder thermostat to maximum, and the central heating room thermostat to maximum, the motorised valve should be in the mid position. Then, if you turn the cylinder thermostat down to its minimum position, you should hear a click from the thermostat and the valve should move to the heating only position. Does that happen?

 

[Dutch85]

That would be my theory also.

As per @terryplumb you are missing the hot water off connection from the programmer. However, there is also a second source for a hot water off signal and that's your cylinder thermostat.

View attachment 286337

With heating and hot water both set to 'on at the programmer, if you turn the cylinder thermostat to maximum, and the central heating room thermostat to maximum, the motorised valve should be in the mid position. Then, if you turn the cylinder thermostat down to its minimum position, you should hear a click from the thermostat and the valve should move to the heating only position. Does that happen?

Just tried your suggest and nothing. Valve is still sitting at "M".
In the current state will the water be constantly heated whilst heating is on? Is that safe? Is there anyway to manually switch the valve to heating only mode?

 

[terryplumb]

Just tried your suggest and nothing. Valve is still sitting at "M".
In the current state will the water be constantly heated whilst heating is on? Is that safe? Is there anyway to manually switch the valve to heating only mode?

No ,you can only manually latch it in mid position. It returns to domestic hot water only Port ,under its spring pressure, if no voltage is supplied to it.
Your set up /( wiring) is such that you are stuck with both heating and hot water coming on simultaneously when heating is called for.
The temperature of the hot water in the cylinder doesn't appear to work Under the control of the cylinder stat, so the temperature would get upto the temperature of the central heating water under the control of the boilers thermostat ,whatever that may be set to.
If you want to have the system working as it should ( Y plan) you will need an engineer to rewire it all.