New Heating System does not work!!!

[kevindgas]

Hi Kevindgas

I did as you asked and the D.0 reading appears as 30

Is the normal for a Valiant Eco Tec Plus 428 heating 11 Rad, 4 bed detached house fully insulated both wall and loft?

!

then your installer hasn't range rated the boiler!! to do so repeat what you have done to get the 30 displayed then use -/+ to alter that to say 18 then press i and hold it until the 18 stops flashing then press flame fail/reset button this will range the boiler down to 18Kw

see if that helps if it doesn't then you can change it back at any time by repeating the process and putting a number in (each number is Kw's maximum)

 

[D_Hailsham]

I did as you asked and the D.0 reading appears as 30

d.0 is the heating part load in kW. If it is 30, then the boiler is set to max output.

Is the normal for a Valiant Eco Tec Plus 428 heating 11 Rad, 4 bed detached house fully insulated both wall and loft?

I have a similar sized house to you with 13 rads and full wall and loft insulation. The boiler is 15kW.

You need to range rate your boiler down to about 15 or 16kW

Use the Boiler sizing wizard in my previous post to find out what size boiler you should have bought. Use this as a starting point for adjusting the boiler output.

• Press the “i” and “+” buttons simultaneously.

• Keep the “+” button pressed until “d.0” is displayed.
Note: The display runs from “d.0” to “d.99” before restarting at “d.0”.

• Press the “i” button. The “=” symbol is displayed. The part load setting is now displayed in kW.

• Use the “+” and “–” buttons to increase or decrease the value in steps of 1 kW. The displayed value will flash while the adjustment procedure is being carried out.

• Push the “i” button for about five seconds, or until the display stops flashing. The value is now saved to memory.
The display will now return to its normal state (current heating system flow temperature, e.g. 45 °C).

• Press the “i” and “+” buttons simultaneously to cancel
adjustment mode.
Adjustment mode is also cancelled if no button is operated for a period of 4 minutes.

 

[gas4you]

If your so called installer says the boiler will only work properly on a pressurised system, which I agree is a load of crap, then ask him why he quoted and fitted it for/to an open vented system in the first place

Yes, it can be true that a pressurised system is better and need in some circumstances, but in your case it sounds like a basic case of not enough flow through the boiler.

Sadly the 400 series is the worst of the Vaillant range, and will always need a good pump set on maximum speed to stop the boiler faulting or giving the notorious S53 codes.

But then your gas safe installer should know this, should he not

 

[Agile]

I did as you asked and the D.0 reading appears as 30

Also Magnaclean cyclinder sounds as water is trickling throught it! Is this normal? It has been bled twice and on both ocassions air can be heard escaping and also towel rad needs bleeding every other day!

In that case try to set d0 to 18 and we expect that will probably improve the situation.

Somebody has specified an over sized boiler for you!

You could try bleeding the air vent on the top of the Magnaclean while the boiler is turned off.

Tony

 

[APHSLTD]

Do these things not modulate?

 

[Agile]

Yes, of course they do.

But if max power is set too high they reach set temp too quickly and go into anticycle mode.

Tony

 

[mickyg]

When the installer instlled and commissioned the system instead of using the header tank to fill the system via the mains water flowing into it. The installer connected a hose from an outside tap and then filled the system until the header tank over flowed

 

[Caesar]

Hi All

Update to the Problematic new Heating System installation. I had the Plumbers who installed the system around again and they checked and re-drained the system. Refilled the system and boiler still kept cutting out. They then temporarily blocked the Vent pipe and hey presto said the Boiler now works without cutting out. They explained that the system needs to be sealed to ensure no air gets into it by installing an expansion vessel in the loft and doing away with the F&E tank!!! Is this right? Will solve the problem of the Boiler cutting out or is it another excuse for poor workmanship?

PS now there is so much air in the system the whole thing makes a real racket when hot water or Heating is called for !!!

 

[Agile]

It could well be a pipework installation fault dating from when it was installed.

The installers should have identified this before fitting the new boiler.

I would usually convert to a single feed and expansion pipe to solve the problem at least cost.

A fully sealed system is better though.

How about seting d0 down?

Tony

 

[SmithyXL]

Hi All

Update to the Problematic new Heating System installation. I had the Plumbers who installed the system around again and they checked and re-drained the system. Refilled the system and boiler still kept cutting out. They then temporarily blocked the Vent pipe and hey presto said the Boiler now works without cutting out. They explained that the system needs to be sealed to ensure no air gets into it by installing an expansion vessel in the loft and doing away with the F&E tank!!! Is this right? Will solve the problem of the Boiler cutting out or is it another excuse for poor workmanship?

PS now there is so much air in the system the whole thing makes a real racket when hot water or Heating is called for !!!

Poor system design is leading to air being pulled down the vent, interupting system flow, even if he is adapting sections of the old system, he is still duty bound to leave you with a fully working system.

 

[Caesar]

Dear Agile / SmithyXL

Many thanks for your replies

The D0 setting I reset back to 18 as the Plumbers did not know what Heat Rating meant!

Originally it was at 30

 

[Agile]

Clearly plumbers rather than boiler engineers!

Its not surprising they have done such a bum job!

What effect did setting d=18 have?

Tony

 

[Caesar]

Hi Agile

To be honest not really evaluated it as when they left my whole family felt drained as well!!!!

With so much air still left in the system I did nt let it run though this morning when the HOt water and heating cam eon it sounded liek there was water being expelled in to the F&E and so mcuh noise I truned the system off. Will try and bleed it ton oght to expl as much air and see how it runs as plumbers are combing back this Thursday to install sealed sysytem, add inhibitor etc

 

[Garfeild]

"The plumbers did not know what heat rating meant"

Tell me you're kidding?

 

[mickyg]

you've probably got a blockage(s) around the connections of your cold feed and open vent. You previously told us your box and pipefitters had backfilled the system. This section can be and should have been unblocked. If the system is badly contaminated enough for this to happen no doubt its only a matter of time before your boiler heat exchanger blocks up as well.
Personally I'd kick these idiots in to touch and get a proper heating engineer in to sort it out.