Next...the Kitchen!!

[Richard C]

Unfortunately they're non-cavity 1927 brick walls, they're so uneven that dot/dab would be hard work.

You can’t dot & dab solid walls anyway, it leads to cold spots where the adhesive bridges which can lead to condensation internally. You will also get all sorts of moldy crud growing behind the boards as well which will eventually lead to failure.

My plan is to put up framing, insulate between the battens using polystyrene insulation, then use thermal lined barrier plasterboard (like this: http://www.wickes.co.uk/vapourshield-plasterboard/invt/220230/)

Duplex (foil back) is OK but your timber battens will be the wrong side which won’t do them a lot of good in the long term, you should at least be using pressure treated timber. The advantage of Thermaline http://www.british-gypsum.com/produ...es/gyproc_thermal/gyproc_thermaline_plus.aspx or Thermaline Plus http://www.british-gypsum.com/produ...s/gyproc_thermal/gyproc_thermaline_super.aspx is that you can pick the level of insulation you install, they have an integral vapor barrier & you can direct fix so no battens are required; it’ll be lot less work & give a far superior result.

Don’t let Building Control find out you’ve stripped external walls back to brick or you could get a nasty surprise!

For the first wall (an inset on one side of the chimney) I was considering using two pieces, starting at the top full width, then attaching the next piece below. My plastered suggested using square edge, butting close together, scrim-taping the joins and then he'll put a skim over both boards. Is that the best approach?

Put the shorter section at the top & make sure the edges are fully supported; square edge, butt close as your plasterer suggested.

 

[sergeantash]

Unfortunately they're non-cavity 1927 brick walls, they're so uneven that dot/dab would be hard work.

You can’t dot & dab solid walls anyway, it leads to cold spots where the adhesive bridges which can lead to condensation internally. You will also get all sorts of moldy crud growing behind the boards as well which will eventually lead to failure.

My plan is to put up framing, insulate between the battens using polystyrene insulation, then use thermal lined barrier plasterboard (like this: http://www.wickes.co.uk/vapourshield-plasterboard/invt/220230/)

Duplex (foil back) is OK but your timber battens will be the wrong side which won’t do them a lot of good in the long term, you should at least be using pressure treated timber. The advantage of Thermaline http://www.british-gypsum.com/produ...es/gyproc_thermal/gyproc_thermaline_plus.aspx or Thermaline Plus http://www.british-gypsum.com/produ...s/gyproc_thermal/gyproc_thermaline_super.aspx is that you can pick the level of insulation you install, they have an integral vapor barrier & you can direct fix so no battens are required; it’ll be lot less work & give a far superior result.

Don’t let Building Control find out you’ve stripped external walls back to brick or you could get a nasty surprise!

For the first wall (an inset on one side of the chimney) I was considering using two pieces, starting at the top full width, then attaching the next piece below. My plastered suggested using square edge, butting close together, scrim-taping the joins and then he'll put a skim over both boards. Is that the best approach?

Put the shorter section at the top & make sure the edges are fully supported; square edge, butt close as your plasterer suggested.

Hi Rich - thanks for your help, I wish you could come and do it for me, you sound like you know what you're talking about

I bought treated wooden battens, they're a kind of green colour if that helps, also the walls don't suffer from dampness so they *should* be ok!

This Thermaline stuff looks great, but if its large boards, how do you direct fix it and get it level/straight if the wall isn't straight behind?

I have heard about Building Control nosying into jobs like this - its one Government department I would love to see shut down personally!

p.s. I haven't bought any board yet so could do the other walls using Thermaline if I can get my head around how it attaches!

 

[Richard C]

This Thermaline stuff looks great, but if its large boards, how do you direct fix it and get it level/straight if the wall isn't straight behind?

Have a read here; http://www.british-gypsum.com/pdf/SB07_DriLyner_04.pdf the one your interested in is the RF system.

I have heard about Building Control nosying into jobs like this - its one Government department I would love to see shut down personally!

I’m not a great lover of legislation & some (including this little gem) are OTT but Building Regulations are generally a good thing as they at least define a standard. There has to be some sort of control &, in general, it’s just as easy to comply with the Regs as it is not to. Idiot know nothing cowboys run riot enough as it is but LABC cost seems to have gone through the roof in recent years.

 

[sergeantash]

This Thermaline stuff looks great, but if its large boards, how do you direct fix it and get it level/straight if the wall isn't straight behind?

Have a read here; http://www.british-gypsum.com/pdf/SB07_DriLyner_04.pdf the one your interested in is the RF system.

I had a look at this but it looks like dot/dab style? Am I misunderstanding it?

So, I almost completed battening an inset part of wall that sits to the right of a chimney breast, I have also started to fit the insulation material between the battens, so far so good...its hard work though getting these things level, I have used almost a full pack of wedges to get these battens level - thats how bad the wall is!!

Untitled

• sergeantash
• 2 Feb 2012
• 1

 

[xblack]

Gypframe and board.

Make sure you have a gap 2mm between the boards to allow for movement, more so with these old places.

Make sure you use breathable insulation.

 

[Richard C]

I had a look at this but it looks like dot/dab style? Am I misunderstanding it?

Yes RF is dot/dab; although it can be fitted using steel channels (MF system). You won’t get cold spots due to the insulation & installation also involves hammer fixings to give the board’s mechanical support.

 

[sergeantash]

Gypframe and board.

Make sure you have a gap 2mm between the boards to allow for movement, more so with these old places.

Make sure you use breathable insulation.

I hadn't considered those, it would make this much easier, its taking me ages!! I'm using a polystyrene type insulation. Any disadvantages to gypframe?

Everyone that I have spoken with so far has said to butt the boards up close, not leaving any gap?

 

[Richard C]

Everyone that I have spoken with so far has said to butt the boards up close, not leaving any gap?

& so do British Gypsum

 

[sergeantash]

Everyone that I have spoken with so far has said to butt the boards up close, not leaving any gap?

& so do British Gypsum

Agreed - I can imagine that by leaving a gap you encourage movement because the boards are free to move. By boarding an entire wall without gaps surely you're reinforcing the wall to a point?

 

[xblack]

Everyone that I have spoken with so far has said to butt the boards up close, not leaving any gap?

& so do British Gypsum

Not so, they say leave a 3mm gap.

I do this for a living mate, not just to make myself look good on a diy forum.

 

[xblack]

Everyone that I have spoken with so far has said to butt the boards up close, not leaving any gap?

& so do British Gypsum

Agreed - I can imagine that by leaving a gap you encourage movement because the boards are free to move. By boarding an entire wall without gaps surely you're reinforcing the wall to a point?

If you butt boards up you will get cracking because of movement. Like I have said, I do this for a living and have for just over 40 years.

http://www.howarth-timber.co.uk/Downloads/plasterboardselectorguide-2.pdf

Gypframe is quick to put up and works well if done correctly.

 

[sergeantash]

Everyone that I have spoken with so far has said to butt the boards up close, not leaving any gap?

& so do British Gypsum

Not so, they say leave a 3mm gap.

I do this for a living mate, not just to make myself look good on a diy forum.

Xblack, I plan on scrimming the joins and then getting the entire wall plastered, with this in mind (not using jointing tape) would you still leave a gap?

 

[xblack]

Everyone that I have spoken with so far has said to butt the boards up close, not leaving any gap?

& so do British Gypsum

Not so, they say leave a 3mm gap.

I do this for a living mate, not just to make myself look good on a diy forum.

Xblack, I plan on scrimming the joins and then getting the entire wall plastered, with this in mind (not using jointing tape) would you still leave a gap?

Yes you ALWAYS leave a gap. Think how an earth quake happens.

 

[sergeantash]

Everyone that I have spoken with so far has said to butt the boards up close, not leaving any gap?

& so do British Gypsum

Not so, they say leave a 3mm gap.

I do this for a living mate, not just to make myself look good on a diy forum.

Xblack, I plan on scrimming the joins and then getting the entire wall plastered, with this in mind (not using jointing tape) would you still leave a gap?

Yes you ALWAYS leave a gap. Think how an earth quake happens.

In the PDF that you linked to, it doesn't state that a gap should be left, it states:

"Lightly butt boards together. Never force boards into position."

 

[xblack]

Everyone that I have spoken with so far has said to butt the boards up close, not leaving any gap?

& so do British Gypsum

Not so, they say leave a 3mm gap.

I do this for a living mate, not just to make myself look good on a diy forum.

Xblack, I plan on scrimming the joins and then getting the entire wall plastered, with this in mind (not using jointing tape) would you still leave a gap?

Yes you ALWAYS leave a gap. Think how an earth quake happens.

In the PDF that you linked to, it doesn't state that a gap should be left, it states:

"Lightly butt boards together. Never force boards into position."

Oh come on please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Lightly butt boards WITH A MAX SEPERATION OF 3mm.

Like I have said I do this for a living.

Now you have thrashed my head I will go apply some lime.