Next...the Kitchen!!

[sergeantash]

Oh come on please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Lightly butt boards WITH A MAX SEPERATION OF 3mm.

Like I have said I do this for a living.

Now you have thrashed my head I will go apply some lime.

No one is questioning your skill or ability - but doing something for a living is irrelevant. I know some 'IT guys' who work full time in IT, but are ****...

I'm just trying to get to the facts here and as Richard states, Gyproc do not suggest leaving a gap.

Your new to this forum (from your post count), I'd suggest calming it down a little...

 

[Richard C]

I do this for a living mate.

& so do I mate so do I; amongst other things!

not just to make myself look good on a diy forum

You obviously don’t know me; not why I do it at all.

I'm just trying to get to the facts here and as Richard states, Gyproc do not suggest leaving a gap.

It’s also in the BG White Book & Site Book; where my link on dry lining systems came from. Leaving gaps will = cracks. Especially if you don’t fill them.

You will you get cold spots if you dot/dab standard boards but not with insulated Thermaline.

Your new to this forum (from your post count), I'd suggest calming it down a little...

I suspect xblack is either someones alter ego or a re-born; we get them on here from time to time but after slagging a few contributors off, they usually dissapear as fast as they arrived.

 

[sergeantash]

I find it a bit of an insult to ask for advice then to imply that it matters not if you have over 40 years in the game you are s**t.

Then find another thread...in almost every post that you've made you refer to your alleged 'extensive experience'. Its absolutely irrelevant as per my example, you can be doing something wrong for a very very long time.

I'm always suspicious of someone that feels the need to constantly say how long they've been doing something for, its as if they're trying to convince themselves!

You're new to the forum, you started by insulting Richard by claiming that he's only posting to look good on a forum - for your information he's been here providing help/assistance for a VERY long time, note also how many times he's been 'thanked' in his profile.

I suggest you calm it else you'll get yourself banned.

Now kindly go and do some plastering or something and stop trying to look good on a forum

 

[xblack]

http://www.diy-extra.co.uk/fitting-plasterboard-ceiling.html
http://www.publicdesigns.com/home-garden/diy-how-to-plasterboard-a-wall/


Mmm

Too cold to apply lime by the way, so I'm going to get drunk

 

[Richard C]

By the limited number of posts you’ve made that are not derogatory, you do seem to have an understanding of what your talking about, even if you won’t admit to being wrong on this occasion. I don’t understand why you’re so angry & as for slagging the OP because he questions if your post content is right!

That explains why you know s** all about lime mixes then?

By my own admission, I’m a self taught spread since around 2004 when my previous working life ended so can’t compete with your obvious experience. I’m not an expert as far as lime rendering goes either & only got into it as a result of a plastering problem I had around 3 years ago; but there have & still are other very experienced contributors on here whose advice I value & have sought in the past that would say otherwise.

Say alot about YOU when you think every post is about YOU.

I really don’t follow that. I’m sorry you feel aggrieved that I post about so many different things, that tends to happen when your multi trade. It’s why I get all the work I need across several trades; if you don’t diversify, you’ll die, especially at the moment.

Why wouldn't you fill between plasterboard unless you are just using tape? See what happened?

The idea is not to leave gaps, certainly not large ones as it involves filling but you always fill scrim tape as you go; but then you must know that.

It was another option, why would you gypframe then add thermaline reducing space when you have space to insulate between the gypframe?
"Gypframe, bpard and insulate" is what I said.

The OP needs an insulation barrier, he’s currently planning to do that using timber batten but could as easily use Gypframe, it’s merely a metal battening system; you can use it for any BG board system. My original suggestion was to use dot/dab which is perfectly OK with Thermaline as long as you use nailable plugs.

I have spent a while on this forum reading peaps posts.

peaps is an OK contributor along with others in plastering, I can’t remember having problems with him. I don’t post there much any longer as it’s generally well served with knowledgeable contributors &, as you know, I have other strings in my bow & rarely do just plastering anymore.

I will stick around atleast until we have finished here.

Sounds a bit sinister, what do you have planned ? Do you want to be his boyfriend? Ere, your not peaps alter ego are you! It won’t be the first time Plastering (or any of the forums for that matter) has been through disruptive periods.

Interesting that you post links to other DIY sources rather than follow the technical advice & recommendations of the people that actually make the stuff.

 

[sergeantash]

Rich, lets ignore the twonk

Back to the original subject - taking everything into consideration including cost, would you go for the metal frame system for the rest of the room or stick with battens?

 

[Richard C]

No worth my comment peaps, your obviosuly a double act

 

[Richard C]

Back to the original subject - taking everything into consideration including cost, would you go for the metal frame system for the rest of the room or stick with battens?

Personally I’d go with what I suggested in the first place, D&D Thermaline Plus with nailable plugs or stick to timber & insulation. I can’t see the point of going to Gypframe, separate insulation between & standard wallboard, you will get cold spots where it contacts the steel framing; one thing xblack is right about.

 

[sergeantash]

Back to the original subject - taking everything into consideration including cost, would you go for the metal frame system for the rest of the room or stick with battens?

Personally I’d go with what I suggested in the first place, D&D Thermaline Plus with nailable plugs or stick to timber & insulation. I can’t see the point of going to Gypframe, separate insulation between & standard wallboard, you will get cold spots where it contacts the steel framing; one thing xblack is right about.

Thanks Rich, I'll carry on as I am then, its bloody hard work but will be worth the end result!. Peaps I can see what you're saying with regards to strengthening the joints, in which case I'll leave a gap for plaster to sit into.

What do you mean about self-adhesive scrim though? Aren't they all slightly self-adhesive, and if not then why would the adhesive cause an issue?

p.s. Peaps, you're constructive and calm - this is a far better than xblack's "I'm right because 30 years says so" attitude!

 

[peaps]

Back to the original subject - taking everything into consideration including cost, would you go for the metal frame system for the rest of the room or stick with battens?

Personally I’d go with what I suggested in the first place, D&D Thermaline Plus with nailable plugs or stick to timber & insulation. I can’t see the point of going to Gypframe, separate insulation between & standard wallboard, you will get cold spots where it contacts the steel framing; one thing xblack is right about.

Thanks Rich, I'll carry on as I am then, its bloody hard work but will be worth the end result!. Peaps I can see what you're saying with regards to strengthening the joints, in which case I'll leave a gap for plaster to sit into.

What do you mean about self-adhesive scrim though? Aren't they all slightly self-adhesive, and if not then why would the adhesive cause an issue?

p.s. Peaps, you're constructive and calm - this is a far better than xblack's "I'm right because 30 years says so" attitude!

I use cotton skrim. Self adhesive is crap. With cotton skrim you add plaster to the joint then apply the skrim, add more plaster to cover the skrim, wait until the plaster goes stiff then brush with a wet brush. When it's dry you fill board with plaster, first coat, then with your second coat fill the whole area. Stronger joints and better finish.

 

[peaps]

Back to the original subject - taking everything into consideration including cost, would you go for the metal frame system for the rest of the room or stick with battens?

Personally I’d go with what I suggested in the first place, D&D Thermaline Plus with nailable plugs or stick to timber & insulation. I can’t see the point of going to Gypframe, separate insulation between & standard wallboard, you will get cold spots where it contacts the steel framing; one thing xblack is right about.

That's if you use adhesive...... Fix the frame as a floatining wall..... Jobs done. Quick and easy.

 

[peaps]

self adhesive skrim is flawed because you can't get a good fill in the gap.... It's also easy to split and can't take the pressure when boarding large areas. It falls off in the cold or if the boards have a touch of dust on it. It's also the reason you see skrim through the plaster. It also draggs when skimming.

I hate the stuff.

 

[peaps]

Just as a matter of interest. Richard, do you use anyother products than BG products?

 

[peaps]

p.s. Peaps, you're constructive and calm - this is a far better than xblack's "I'm right because 30 years says so" attitude!

Ted is the best plasterer (except his dad) that I have come across. He learn't from his dad and grandad who learn't from his dad. They go back donkey years! I think there is 5 generations who have plastered back to back in that family.

When you give good advice and you come across people who are self taught who argue the toss over something so simple it can get your back up. And let's face it, you would get worse on site. Self taught = bad habits. You can't learn from white papers you can only learn from experience.

He's a well of info, some you won't find in books.

 

[Richard C]

self adhesive skrim is flawed because you can't get a good fill in the gap.... It's also easy to split and can't take the pressure when boarding large areas. It falls off in the cold or if the boards have a touch of dust on it. It's also the reason you see skrim through the plaster. It also draggs when skimming.

But if you don’t have a gap, no need to fill it & if you have a gap, fill it before taping. I agree about the dust but what sort of skrim are you referring to peaps? You’ll have trouble splitting glass fibre reinforcing tape even with a trowel! We seem to have a clash of old & new here!

Ash; I have only ever used glass fibre, self adhesive reinforcing tape. The only time I ever had a problem was when I did my first D&D wall back in 2004 & was BECAUSE I had gaps & didn’t fill before taping so peaps is right there. The skim also sank between the boards showing a very small but noticeable trough line where the board joints were & I had to fill it. Never had any problems since & if the tape “grins” through, your putting the skim on to thin.