No-fines home - insulating

[cwhaley]

I know it's the standard method of fixing standard plasterboard to walls, but given the extra weight and a cheap source of timber I'd rather fix with battens and screws. As for the foam, if they're recommending using fixings I might as well just stick to just using proper fixings.

Thought -- wouldn't going down the 'dot 'n' dab' route lead to an air gap behind the plasterboard, where the dabs raise the board off the wall?

 

[WabbitPoo]

I do wonder why OP has asked the question.....you seem wedded to the idea of battens even though you have had plenty of advice to the contrary! Either way good luck and show us pics of the results.

 

[cwhaley]

Wedded? Eh?

The question was just to ask what I should expect when drilling into no-fines walls and what it's like generally under the plaster, hence the post title and my first post

The conversation drifted onto other aspects of the job (as posts on here often do).

 

[endecotp]

I'd rather fix with battens and screws.

Experiment drilling into the no-fines now and see what it's like. If it's as horrible as I suspect, re-consider the other options.

As for the foam, if they're recommending using fixings I might as well just stick to just using proper fixings.

I think you're advised to fit a couple per board, at the top. That's a lot less work than using exclusively fixings (and I bet a lot of people don't bother). TBH I think sticky foam is best suited for small jobs.

Thought -- wouldn't going down the 'dot 'n' dab' route lead to an air gap behind the plasterboard, where the dabs raise the board off the wall?

You're supposed to have a continuous bead of adhesive around the edge of the board for this reason.

 

[cwhaley]

I've drilled into no-fines before (to put up shelving and to install a tv bracket) and decided to do it again to put up battens, but my original question was to ask what it may be like drilling into no-fines walls on this scale and also to better understand what it's like when on the face of it (underneath the plaster).

It's a shame but - as is often the case here - a completely separate aspect of the project has taken centre-stage. It's a bit rubbish to be told "I wonder why OP has asked the question" when I never even asked whether I'm using battens or adhesive. In fact, that question was asked of me and I responded. It's a bit like me asking what light switch I should pick for a living room, to then be picked up over what colour bulb is going in the bulb holder.

That said, there's some great advice on here and I genuinely appreciate the responses.

I can't properly respond on the adhesives/stickies comment as I don't use them.

 

[endecotp]

Ignore Button Time!

 

[noseall]

The thought of having to drill dozens of times into a no-fines wall, fills me with dread. The OP is a nutter.

 

[^woody^]

The thought of having to drill dozens of times into a no-fines wall, fills me with dread. The OP is a nutter.

If only someone would invent a gun-thing™ that fires nails into concrete.

I'll give it some thought.

I'll also think about adhesive-stuff™ that will fit into some sort of tube.

2018 could be my year.

 

[motorbiking]

Thought -- wouldn't going down the 'dot 'n' dab' route lead to an air gap behind the plasterboard, where the dabs raise the board off the wall?

The issue is warm air touching a cold surface. As I understand your original post you are proposing 25mm of PIR between battens, followed by another 25mm overlapping the battens with plaster board on top? If PL4065 is too expensive then perhaps the standard 50mm with the addition of separate plaster board. If you can get at the floor boards above, I'd consider some loft roll in the ceiling void, to work in conjunction with the wall insulation.

Given how epensive 2 sheets of 25mm will cost, I'm not sure why 50mm is not worth looking at? Or are you thinking of wool insulation?

 

[^woody^]

50mm between the battens, then cut some strips of the 50mm insulation to go over the battens. Fill gaps, tape, and jobs a good 'un.

 

[cwhaley]

The issue is warm air touching a cold surface. As I understand your original post you are proposing 25mm of PIR between battens, followed by another 25mm overlapping the battens with plaster board on top? If PL4065 is too expensive then perhaps the standard 50mm with the addition of separate plaster board. If you can get at the floor boards above, I'd consider some loft roll in the ceiling void, to work in conjunction with the wall insulation.

Given how epensive 2 sheets of 25mm will cost, I'm not sure why 50mm is not worth looking at? Or are you thinking of wool insulation?

Thanks for that and for reading my first post! The reason I'm proposing 25mm insulation is because I can get it at just less than £9 a sheet (the ~6x8 sheets) so although it involves a little extra work, it's worth it on the money-front.

I didn't think about loft roll above the living room so will see if she wants me to put that in too, floorboards are fairly easy to get to.

 

[cwhaley]

The thought of having to drill dozens of times into a no-fines wall, fills me with dread. The OP is a nutter.

Are you okay? I did it to put up a TV bracket and some shelves and others have done it locally to fit internal insulation (where external insulation was too expensive or the council would not do it). Granted it takes a little more effort than going into brick, but I wasn't on the floor "with dread" lol.

Thank you for calling me a nutter, too.