No power at socket

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Devon
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I've got a double socket located inside a cupboard that, until very recently, worked perfectly. However it now appears to be malfunctioning - it was losing power intermittently (the light, phone and PC plugged into the extension cable kept flicking on and off) however now appears to have no power at all.

I've checked all of the appliances and the extension cable, all of which work fine. I've tried other known good appliances in the socket, which appear to be getting no power. So I'm fairly certain the problem is around the socket.

All other sockets are functioning normally.

I've tried taking the socket off and refitting it, however that hasn't made any difference. One interesting thing is that this socket appears to be feeding another socket - there are 2 sets of wires in each hole, with one set heading off to feed a socket in the next room - which also doesn't appear to work any more, but was last week.

I'm going to buy a new double socket tomorrow to see whether the problem lies there, however assuming that isn't the problem, is there anything else I can try? Can I test the wires for integrity? Or am I effectively then limited to calling an electrician?
 
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Do you have a multi-meter?
It sounds like you have a loose or broken conductor.
As this circuit appears to have lost power to more than one socket, it would suggest that the circuit is either a radial circuit or spur from the ring final.
I would be surprised to find two sockets failing at the same time and it be down to the socket plate.
Is there a fused connection connected somewhere nearby? if so check switch is closed and making circuit (if switched) and also check fuse.
Can you identify the circuit at the fuse board?
 
I don't have a multimeter, however will try to borrow one if there is likely to be benefit.

It's a fair point about the fact that both sockets have lost power. I will check the other socket again to make sure - it did work without experiencing the same issues as the main one.

I can't think that there is a fused connection anywhere - I'll have another look. I also need to trace some trunking that comes out of the cupboard and disappears somewhere behind a radiator. That might make life a bit easier if the socket doesn't go straight into the wall, but also might make it more awkward with the radiator in the way.

There is only a "sockets" circuit on the fuse board, so I can't isolate it any further than that :(
 
Ideally and the safest method of investigation, is with the socket circuit isolated, you only have one. I would expect this to be ring final circuit which would be rated at 30A/32A, depending on age of board and you would see two cables either red or brown, again depending on age of install, terminated at the fuse/MCB.
This would then lead me to thinking that the faulty part of the circuit is spurred from the ring, if you have lost power at two different outlets.
The fault could be down to something as simply as a loose or broken connection at feed socket to the spur.
But it could be a number of other reasons and places, but investigate at nearby sockets, for three sets of cables.
But don't rule out the intersection may have been made via junction box, that could be difficult to find in ceiling/floor void.
 
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This would then lead me to thinking that the faulty part of the circuit is spurred from the ring, if you have lost power at two different outlets.
The fault could be down to something as simply as a loose or broken connection at feed socket to the spur.
But it could be a number of other reasons and places, but investigate at nearby sockets, for three sets of cables.
But don't rule out the intersection may have been made via junction box, that could be difficult to find in ceiling/floor void.

Have to agree!!
 
Thanks guys - the board was fitted 4 years ago and it is RCD controlled. I was going to have another nose to see what colour the cables were and what the rating was, but I was just going to knock stuff over doing it tonight!
 
the board was fitted 4 years ago
When you had the board fitted do the installer leave documentation?
As you should have been left schedules of tests and a circuit chart, plus the board should be marked up.
This could help you with your investigation, the installer, should have but information down on the certificates that will inform you of the circuit type, if you are lucky, they may also have remarked on any spurs.
The test results will also give some evidence on the condition of the cable.
 

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