Outbuilding Power

I must admit I am tempted to repair the existing pyro to save all the bother of laying new cable plus the expense. At the moment the pyro goes throught the metal conduit, reaches the house where it goes up the wall to just above the dpc and terminates in a round conduit junction box on the outside wall. At that point it is connected to the old CU with 2.5mm T&E. Thing is that the conduit box isn't weatherproof and I'm sure would let in damp leading to tripping of the RCD, when moved to the new CU. I guess I would need to replace that with a proper weatherproof junction box, but would need to make sure I could find one to terminate the earth properly with.
If you see what I mean :oops: !
JD
 
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if it is a real pyro (not say it is /nt), you can not repair it. you can cut it off and add new via suitable box but repair............no
 
is it acceptable to use a resin filled joint kit to join pyro to swa?
 
The actual cable isn't damaged it's just the terminal at the end which would need putting back together. I only removed it to actually identify it for sure. Does that mean I've knackered it completely? If so then that's it I will definitely be replacing it!
 
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breezer said:
if it is a real pyro (not say it is /nt), you can not repair it. you can cut it off and add new via suitable box but repair............no

Breezer, so long as the Pyro is a standard Metric size, it is repairable, but you MUST know how to terminate Pyro properly before you even contemplate this.
 
Sorry to bombard you folks with loads of questions, but as much to help me with my planning as anything I'll jot this down;
I either :
a. Repair existing pyro and replace the junction on the house wall. In which case
i To reterminate the pyro - any details anywhere on this? None of my reference material has any, OK I'm willing to accept that is because it's a job not meant for DIY'ers but it can't be that hard surely?
ii How to do a decent job at the house wall end - I'd need a junction box to attach the T&E earth to go to the CU but not sure which type

b Replace with SWA (my preferred option although harder work and more costly). In which case is the following a suitable plan of gear?
House CU ; 30A MCB in CU with RCD
6mm T&E cable to junction box nearby where 6mm SWA terminated
***underground to garage***
Metal junction box
6mm T&E to Garage CU (or direct to metal Garage CU)
Garage CU 1*16A for power, 1*6A for lights OR 1*32Apower and 1*6A lights
What type of board do you pro's use to mount CU's?
Any input greatly received, I'd like to feel I'm getting somewhere by ordering the various bits tonight/tomorrow.
Cheers
JD
 
FWL_Engineer said:
breezer said:
if it is a real pyro (not say it is /nt), you can not repair it. you can cut it off and add new via suitable box but repair............no

Breezer, so long as the Pyro is a standard Metric size, it is repairable, but you MUST know how to terminate Pyro properly before you even contemplate this.

i suppose we differ (as usual) but i suppose it also depends on deffinition of damage, by damage i would say hit with something like a cold chiesel,* so its really had it, there for it can nor be repaired, yes new piece connected but repaired no.

*your choice of blunt instument
 
Guys, I'm thinking I'm going to go with option b and hopefully be certain the job is good at the end, I'd really appreciate any comments on the planned installation I have just to make sure I'm going along the right lines.

Cheers
JD
 
breezer said:
i suppose we differ (as usual) but i suppose it also depends on deffinition of damage, by damage i would say hit with something like a cold chiesel,* so its really had it, there for it can nor be repaired, yes new piece connected but repaired no.

Breezer, there are pictures of the offending cable earlier in the thread, so the "damage" is plain to see, and all it entails is a poorely made pot which has degraded, probably due to interference..not quite the same as damaged by a cold chisel.

Obviously a Pyro that has suffered the kind of damage you refer to cannot be repaired except by cutting, terminating and a new section run, but that is not the situation here.
 
b Replace with SWA (my preferred option although harder work and more costly). In which case is the following a suitable plan of gear?
House CU ; 30A MCB in CU with RCD
6mm T&E cable to junction box nearby where 6mm SWA terminated
***underground to garage***
Metal junction box
6mm T&E to Garage CU (or direct to metal Garage CU)
Garage CU 1*16A for power, 1*6A for lights OR 1*32Apower and 1*6A lights
What type of board do you pro's use to mount CU's?
Any input greatly received, I'd like to feel I'm getting somewhere by ordering the various bits tonight/tomorrow.

JD

As option B is now your preferred method I would say that the house side of things looks good, remember you are protecting the outgoing supply cable with the RCD installed in your house CU
If you decide to wire the sockets to form a ring then as you have said 32A MCB is required however if you decide on a radial then the 16A MCB would do the trick. I had a look at the wylex 2 way CU and for what you are doing would say its perfectly suitable. The fact it is metal clad I would terminate the SWA straight into it saving the trouble of using a metal clad JB and extending/terminating into the CU.
As it is a garage I would be inclined to use metal clad sockets which afford > mechanical damage protection.
Lastly there are no IEE guidelines concerning mounting of CU's, I have tended to use 1/2 inch MDF with spacers to pull the cable in from behind the CU.......

As always people will differ, but a greater knowledge never did anyone any harm.
 
You get what you pay for.

You don't pay much for Contactum. Go figure.

You pay noticeably more for MK. Go figure
 
Unphased, thanks very much for taking the time to reply, it's great to be able to get the reassurance that you are doing things correctly.

Just out of interest, being a nice day i thought I'd start the job today and began to unearth the old installation. I was thinking that if at all possible I would reuse the metal conduit for the new cable. I was surprised to see that the conduit downpipe finishes just below the topsoil and the pyro was unprotected for some while before joining a horizontal run of conduit. Would that have ever been acceptable? It's not the sort of pyro which was sleeved in pvc, just a thin surface layer of paint which can be removed with your thumbnail. The exposed bit of pyro looked to have suffered quite a bit of corrosion, wouldn't the oxidisation impeed the earthing properties?
As I say, pure curiosity this as the pyro cable is no more! One more thing, pyro having a poisonous substance in it, does anyone know of any guidelines for disposal?

JD
 

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