PLEASE HELP - AM2 tomorrow and the motor is baffling me

[brightspark19]

Hello electricians. I'm doing my AM2 tomorrow and the main thing that's bothering me is the motor. Here is the diagram:

http://www.net-works.org.uk/figurec.asp

http://www.net-works.org.uk/figureb.asp

It's all wired in 1.5mm singles, just wondering if anyone could tell me if it's all got to be in brown singles (obviously apart from the earth) or if some links etc have to be in black/grey, and where the neutral comes from the left up to the green neon, if the neutral carries on past there or if that's the only neutral in the circuit. Also, I'm fairly sure where all the parts on the motor diagram are in the main layout but I'd like to check:

Coil (A1 and A2), Hold on/start (63 and 64), Stop/reset (96, 95, 97 and 98) and the 13-14 in the main starter and the fuse at the top right in the fuseboard, is this all correct?

Also, do the black/grey have to be brown sleeved in the light switches, and what singles do I have to take from the TP&N 20a s/fuse to its socket.

Any help would very very very very much be appreciated cause im slightly bricking it.

 

[GaryMo]

Neutral is only required for the coil and indication.
You could use brown conductors for the rest of the control circuit.
Do you have to build the control circuit from scratch or use a pre-built DOL starter and run connections to a remote stop/start and the motor itself?

Use all brown conductors for lighting.

If it's a 20A TP+N isolator then and a 5 pin socket then you'll require 3 phase, neutral and earth. Either use 3 brown conductors or brown/black/grey and identify them as L1, L2 and L3.

 

[brightspark19]

I have to build the remote control station (start inch stop) from scratch but the motor starter already has its links in.

 

[Spark123]

Also, do the black/grey have to be brown sleeved in the light switches,

If wiring in singles you won't need to use black and grey - use all brown conductors. When you are installing them you can put a small nicks in the end of the insulation on the piece you will be stripping back or cutting off, put one nick in the each end of one wire, 2 nicks in each end of the next wire and so on. Helps you identify the cables later.

and what singles do I have to take from the TP&N 20a s/fuse to its socket.

Use the correct colours i.e brown black grey and blue, or you may use alphanumerics.

 

[brightspark19]

Cheers for the help so far guys, I take it the TP&N s/fuse will need 2.5 singles going to the industrial socket?

 

[GaryMo]

Cheers for the help so far guys, I take it the TP&N s/fuse will need 2.5 singles going to the industrial socket?

You should be at the stage where you can answer that one yourself

 

[Spark123]

Seems reasonable, 3 phase 2.5mm² singles in conduit on a wall are rated 21A.

 

[ColJack]

95, 96, 97 and 98 are the NO / NC contacts of the thermal overload..

13 and 14 would be a NO contact on the starter

63 and 64 will be contacts on the auxiliary block on the starter ( along with the "hold on" contacts )


so you'd need 2 browns and a blue from the starter unit to the indicator unit ( and and earth )

you'd need 3 browns from the sterter unit to the remote start button unit ( and an earth.. )

 

[brightspark19]

Thanks Coljack. Is the Hold on simply a link between 63 and 64? And is a link required between 97 and 98 or is it just switched across?

 

[Spark123]

What is the reason for the contact between 13 and 14? Physical jam or burned out coil spring to mind, just curious that's all.

 

[Spark123]

Thanks Coljack. Is the Hold on simply a link between 63 and 64? And is a link required between 97 and 98 or is it just switched across?

The hold on 63 and 64 is a normally open contact on the contactor.
The thermal overload switch contact is between 97 and 98, do not put a link across it otherwise your overload won't work!!

 

[brightspark19]

I'm sorry if this sounds slightly retarded, but I'm a housebasher and this is all new to me. I've gotten my head around it pretty much, I can see why the current will flow through the red neon and straight to neutral if its off, and I can see where everything will be going, but I can't see where the actual motor or its connections will be coming into play. I know it'll be something simple, which is why I feel like an idiot already for not knowing, but if anyone could tell me id be very grateful.

 

[Spark123]

The motor connections are not shown on there, that is the control circuit which the primary purpose of is to cause the contactor to pull in/drop out.

On 3 phase side, the motor is connected to the overload (normally) on the bottom of the contactor and the top of the contactor to an isolator and then the 3 phase supply.

 

[ricicle]

The thermal overload switch contact is between 97 and 98, do not put a link across it otherwise your overload won't work!!

I think you'll find the O/L contact used for opening under overload conditions is 95/96

 

[Spark123]

OK, the trip light will stay on!