Potterton EP2002 to Hive Active heating and hot water

Any idea how that old Potterton and the hive Receiver will come together?
I know that the L link is not necessary but I’m bit confused about the yellow cable in B? I thought


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Your wiring conversion is incorrect it should be
old - new
L+5 - L
N - N
It is unusual to have a connection to terminal 2-CH off, if your current programmer does not let you have central heating without hot water on as well, set the Hive to gravity mode.

The yellow wire should be put into a separate connector block and tucked safely out of the way, it does not form part of the heating controls and must not be connected to the hive.
Hi I have same issue as Dan.. well slightly different can anyone help please?


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Your wiring is the same, just without anything in terminal 2...

The roomstat will be connected to the brown wire of the heating valve, disconnect the red blue and yellow wires from the same cable then connect the brown valve wire to the blue wire from the programmer that fed the old room stat, it looks to be in the second terminal at the bottom of your photo.
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Hi guys, looking to replace Potterton 2002 with hive 2 and I am having some trouble.
See image 1 for potterton ep2002 original wiring.

I have connected the wires to the hive 2 receiver as below,

Right side is EP2002 Left is hive 2
L - L
N - N
1 yellow/green HW OFF - 1 yellow/green HW OFF
2 not used - not used
3 brown HW ON - brown HW ON
4 blue HEAT ON - blue HEAT ON
5 brown wire loop from L

I have also disconnected the wired thermostat and put the white wire from the valve with the other live wires as said here. See image 2

When I have selected a desired temperature for the heating and pressed tick on the hive thermostat, I see the boiler fire up but then after a couple minutes it goes off again. Even though the hive thermostat is showing the heating is on.

What am I doing wrong.

Image 1

Image 2
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The White wire from the valve should go to the blue wire on its own on the right of the 5 way terminal block.
The White wire from the valve should go to the blue wire on its own on the right of the 5 way terminal block.

Also note that the block connector where the white wire is connected in the image was part of the 5 block connector which means it was originally a 6 block connector (dunno if that makes a difference :s)

But I shall try what you are suggesting and report back,
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Hi, can anyone make sense of my wiring?

The programmer seems to make sense fro prevous comments but the stat lunction box in the airing cupboard baffles me abit?

Appreciate the help!


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Hi all, first time poster.
I’ve just replaced my Potterton EP2002 with a hive and seem to have a similar problem.
My old system had no thermostat and just used thermostatic radiator valves and the timer on then Potterton. I’ve just recently moved in and didn’t like the set up.
The hive installation was ok if a bit fiddly with numerous cables to the Potterton as per the first poster.
It’s has all connected etc but the boiler only stays on for around 30seconds before clicking off?
It was fine prior to the hive and recently serviced.
It’s a cold evening and I’m not sure what I’ve done wrong but am very keen to get the heating at least running again.
I followed the guide on this post and all wired seem to be in correct places ?
Anyone else had a similar issue ?
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Sorry to jump on the post. I've ordered the hive system and have taken a picture of the EP2002 control box. I'm presuming after reading the thread that it's a like for like swap with only the link needing removal. Thanks.


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Yep, bin live to 5 and straight swap
Thanks for the quick reply ollski
Not sure of the thermostat connection in the airing cupboard. I'll have look of that tonight after work.
This is the spaghetti junction box lol. There are 3 lots of hardwires in the middle coming in from under the box. Which ones would I need to change in order for the hive stat to take over. Many thanks.


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Massive thank you to this thread as it helped me wire up most of the job for my Dad's Hive system. Sadly the little box in the airing cupboard was so squished, 2 wires came loose when I was looking to sort the call to the old thermostat as it was wired into the wall and needed to be cut.


The grey and brown go to the motorized valve near the immersion tank.
Hi everyone, just stumbled across this thread and am having similar issues, not sure if anyone can help?
I’ve read through and was anticipating the wiring in my control board but when I look there is a lot less, does this mean that some of the Hive connectors will be left with no wires going to them? Just N, L, 3 and 4? Many thanks in advance.


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