I've taken up woodworking and have been trying my hand at making simple furniture to hone my skills. So I'll be using the chisels to make mortice joins, and for pairing timber. I don't mind spending good money on good hand tools.Would you like a £5.99 set or a £100 set?
What will you be doing with them? Don's say "chiselling"not.
Are all 400/600/1000 stones more or less the same or are there better ones?For the stone, a diamond stone - either a 300/600 double or a 400/600/1000 treble if you will be doing a lot of work with them, or just a basic £5 double sided oil stone if not.
there is no actual thing as "stay sharp" that happens through quality and maintenanceCan someone please recommend a good chisel make for woodworking that are good quality and stay sharp + a sharpening stone to keep them sharp.
That's what I'm after, a recommendation for good quality chisels that use good quality steel and are available to purchase.there is no actual thing as "stay sharp" that happens through quality and maintenance
i have the standard marples red and yellow from perhaps 25 years ago brilliant day to day in use honed as required every so often when a chin wont add enough "push" to give a clean cut in soft wood
modern marples apparently dont use quality steel [that will hold an edge] but i dont know about that
If you do a search, you will see the common ones being sold and there are very few different brands.Are all 400/600/1000 stones more or less the same or are there better ones?
Is this one okay? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0912FP...abc_49MG9E9H8F9SZFHWYWVK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1I've got some old Rabones, old Stanleys, newer FatMax and most recent Amtech and Roughneck!
The reason for the different types is that I've only bought chisels in sizes that I needed, not as a big set, and when I see one at a price I want to pay. My old chisels stay home now for bench work
I suppose more relevant will be the newer chisels that you can buy now and I'll say the Fatmax hold a great edge, but so do the Amtech and Roughneck chisels I have - I can't really tell any difference in use, but the price difference was significant. As long as you keep a good edge on them I'd say any chisel will do.
Oh, I forgot to mention a leather strop to to give them a nice mirror polish.
Also decide if you want wooden or plastic handles, and round or oval.
If you are doing mortices, get proper mortice chisels - not just for the extra leverage, but the square profile makes the chisel go in vertically and the mortice is truer. Have a look at Narex, or watch ebay for some older but better quality Sheffield made ones that come available.
You'd have thought so, wouldn't you, but I've always done mortises on site with either bevel edge chisels or on bigger 'oles a couple of framing chisels I have, whereas on the bench I've always had mortise chisels (both "pig stickers" and sash mortise chisels), so I was interested to find this Paul Sellars video which sort of debunks that theory:If you are doing mortices, get proper mortice chisels - not just for the extra leverage, but the square profile makes the chisel go in vertically and the mortice is truer.
Vaunt are an ITS brand. Thought I'd posted a link(?) There are other brands, such as DMT and Trend, but they cost a lot more.I think getting diamond homes with a thicker backing sounds sensible. I presume these aren't the Vaunt ones. Would you be able to say which ones you'd recommend and where I can get them?
No, at least in the larger sizes. AFAIK 1200 is about as far as it goes in the UK, although DMT do sell a 4000 grit diamond hone in the USA, I've yet to see anyone here offering it. In the initial phases I'd practice getting a chisel sharp to 1200 first - if you want to go above that you need to resort either to using "scary sharp" techniques or using waterstones. But honestly, avoid the waterstones - like Japanese chisels I find they require almost a monk like devotion to maintaining them.The crazy sharp YouTube video shows him use 3000 sand paper. Do 3000 diamond homes exist?
You can just buy a Draper or a Faithfull guide and tune it, TBH even the Eclipse/Spear & Jackson has always needed a bit of fettling:Regarding the honing Spear & Jackson 94-360R jig, it is out of stock as you say. I can look for it or wait, but if that fails are there other good jigs that are as good
If you are experienced and know what you are doing then yes you could probably cut a mortice with a sharpened spoon not just bevelled chisels. But in the context of someone learning or DIYing, a mortice chisel with its hefty blade and square edges will be advantageous.You'd have thought so, wouldn't you, but I've always done mortises on site with either bevel edge chisels or on bigger 'oles a couple of framing chisels I have, whereas on the bench I've always had mortise chisels (both "pig stickers" and sash mortise chisels), so I was interested to find this Paul Sellars video which sort of debunks that theory:
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