Replacement Merlin Gerin DB screws

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I'm looking for replacement screws for a Merlin Gerin DB (pictured)

Currently all four original screws are missing, and two wood screws are holding the cover on, so I've got no reference for what's needed.

Does anyone know what thread/length I need?
 
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Are you saying that merlin originally used self tappers (would seem rather crude for a high end brand like them) or that you would use self tappers in a repair because you couldn't be bothered identifying the thread?
 
Merlin always have and still use self tappers on their board covers. They ones I linked to are slightly different, but they're the closest match I've managed to find.
 
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Are you saying that merlin originally used self tappers (would seem rather crude for a high end brand like them) or that you would use self tappers in a repair because you couldn't be bothered identifying the thread?
I can't answer that (although, as you say, it would be a bit surprising) but, if woodscrews have been used (effectively as self-tappers) the original thread may be no longer recognisable, or usable - so maybe self-tappers are the most pragmatic solution, given what has probably happened to any threads which may originally have been there??

Kind Regards, John
 
Are you saying that merlin originally used self tappers (would seem rather crude for a high end brand like them) or that you would use self tappers in a repair because you couldn't be bothered identifying the thread?

I think it is the OP that cannot be bothered Identifying the thread, not RFL!

Surely cannot be that hard doing onsite matching up?
 
I think it is the OP that cannot be bothered Identifying the thread, not RFL! ... Surely cannot be that hard doing onsite matching up?
A couple of hours ago, RF told us that Merlin Gerin (not Hager!) have always used self-tappers. There's therefore presumably no thread to 'match up', other than the one created by the original self-tapper.

Kind Regards, John
Edit: wrong make corrected!
 
Merlin gerin use "blunt point self tappers"
The old board you have uses the bigger flat head ones, with a captive washer to hold it in the lid, whereas the newer boards use a smaller panhead version,
The newer ones fit both boards but look different.

Self tappers with points can damage the cables.


https://www.seascrew.com/browse.cfm?SELF-TAPPING-PAN-POZI--BLUNT-POINT--SCREW&l=0000000583

No8 x 3/8

Cheapest option is use No 8 self tappers and grind the points off.
Or screw in by hand self drilling wafer screws as they are not sharp.

another trick is remove and use the makers ones from the top or bottom flange plate and use for the cover, then fit your alternative odd ones out of site.
 
A couple of hours ago, RF told us that Hager

:confused: Hager

I think no 8 would be better in an ideal board.
However if hole has been enlarged then a no10 could be a better choice and the flange head more in line with what was original.

as mentioned earlier the existing style ones wlll still be present to compare and test run the holes

Ps, not sure that Fire alarm sticker conforms ;)
 
A couple of hours ago, RF told us that Hager
:confused: Hager
Whoops - now why did I write that?!! :oops: Corrected.
I think no 8 would be better in an ideal board. However if hole has been enlarged then a no10 could be a better choice and the flange head more in line with what was original. ... as mentioned earlier the existing style ones wlll still be present to compare and test run the holes
That all makes sense.

Kind Regards, John
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. I've ordered the screws RF pointed me to, and I'll grind down the points on them before trying them.
 

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