Replacing EPH WRS1i with Hive - Help!

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by essdee73, 24 Apr 2020.

  1. essdee73

    essdee73

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    IMG_3131.jpg Hi all,

    I bought a Hive active heating system to replace the current set up which is the EPH wireless receiver WRS1i for my Worcester Combi boiler. I thought (perhaps stupidly) that the set up would be easy and I could avoid a BG install! When I opened the EPH receiver I realised I'm actually not sure what to do - the L and N are straightforward but I see multiple (3) Live wires so I'm stumped.

    There is a wall mounted thermostat which has never worked and is wired in the current set up (pls see pic) but as its no longer required - I would appreciate any advice on what needs to be removed from the existing circuit and what should go where (given the current wiring) when installing the single channel Hive receiver?

    Any help would be much appreciated!!! Many thanks
     
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  3. CBW

    CBW

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    Do you have zoned heating (Any motorised valves)? Not really sure of that setup as it’s a combi so, should only have a live, neutral, live in/common and switched live output. Also the green/yellow sleeving is normally earth protection (cpc), however it appears to have been installed as live? Is there any wiring centre?
     
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  4. essdee73

    essdee73

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    Thanks for the reply. We dont have any zones heating (perhaps there was in the past)...I did notice that the earthing wires seem to be connected to 'OFF'. TBH, I'm also not aware of any wiring centre......There seems to be a lot connected to this receiver for some reason!!
     
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  5. CBW

    CBW

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    What is the model of Worcester?
     
  6. essdee73

    essdee73

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    Worcester Greenstar 24i junior combi boiler
     
  7. CBW

    CBW

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    Ok, so unfortunately removing the cover on that model, requires critical safety checks. However all is not lost. If you have access to a multimeter or two pole voltage tester it would be easier, however, I’d go with connecting the following arrangement:

    L from eph to L on Hive
    N on eph to N on Hive

    Number 2 is live/common so take to Hive common with it being linked with a brown wire, don’t think this will be required on Hive.
    3 on eph to heating on (3 on Hive)

    Then whichever configuration works, terminate all extra wires in terminal blocks safely.
     
    Last edited: 24 Apr 2020
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  9. ianmcd

    ianmcd

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    couldnt be simpler, you dont need to touch the boiler, put the hive receiver where the existing stat is, live to live, and neutral to neutral, then the two black wires in terminals 2&3 go to1&3 on the hive, remove the brown link, the two earth wires are not doing anything, just connect them to the earth tether on the hive back plate
     
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  10. essdee73

    essdee73

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    Thank you Ian - Really appreciate your time and advice! Would you know what the brown link is actually there for?

    Cheers
     
  11. CBW

    CBW

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    The link is there because the eph is volt free contacts, and Hive is 230vac, so not required. I’m still learning and dubious, whereas Ian is far more experienced than me.
     
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  12. essdee73

    essdee73

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    Cheers Chris. Much appreciated!
     
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  13. ianmcd

    ianmcd

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    The Hive single channel is also volt free so the link shouldnt have been needed in either set up, not really sure why it is there but you shouldnt need it, your hive is just a switch, so the two black wires are the switching wires, some setups need a live as there are not enough wires from the boiler when installing the control, but you have enough so think the link was added by mistake , you dont need it , if wired correctly at the other end
     
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  14. essdee73

    essdee73

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    Thank you Sir. I'm glad I came to this forum!
     
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