Replacing the Kitchen

electronicsuk said:
I wouldn't bother installing an MCB until you buy the A/C units, then you can select something suitable based on their specification. 4mmsq T+E enclosed in an insulated wall is rated to 27A, or 37A clipped direct. A 20A type C should be more than sufficient for whatever you choose to install to cool an average size kitchen/utility room.

The wall is uninsulated, & the Kitchen & Utility Room are seperate rooms, but next to each other.

The Utility Room is at the moment a covered courtyard outside the back door, which I am going to have closed in & a new roof put on.

The Courtyard at the moment:

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/mdbalson/DSC00055.jpg

Then the washing machine, tumble dryer, microwave, & wine fridge can go out there, & not in the shed or kitchen.
 
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scousespark said:
MDB,

I would say you should be looking for supervised experience before you take on jobs of this size. Your level of questions are fairly basic and you never say what your lecturer thinks of your plans.

I can not ask my lecturer about this as I have now finished the C+G 2330 L2 Course now, & am doing a C+G 6127 Certificate in Refrig & A/C this year.

I will look for an electrical apprenticeship in a year or twos time, as I have to, to do the C+G 2330 L3.


scousespark said:
You just slipped in mention of a new CU. Are you also doing a board change.

Yes I am going to do a board change, as there are no more spare ways left on the 2 old CCUs, & so that there will be only 1 big CCU for the whole house (with all the socket circuits on RCBOs)

I will be replacing the 2 old CCUs will one new MK 21 Mod (19 Ways) CCU with RCBOs for the all the socket circuits, & a lock on the lid to stop my 3 year old brother from turning the breakers on & off.

This is the current Setup:

The Meter Cupboard

The wiring in the old MEM CCU:

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/mdbalson/DSC00291.jpg

The wiring in the old RCD CCU:

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/mdbalson/DSC00013-1.jpg

The meter cupboard:

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/mdbalson/DSC00292.jpg
 
These are both substantial jobs for someone part qualified to take on.

What are you going to do regarding testing? Do you have the relevant kit, know how to do the tests and do you know what the results indicate (especially bad results)? The LABC will expect test results.

A board change involves major responsibility; you are basically going to affect every circuit in your house. Do you know if the circuits are suitable for breakers and how you confirm this?

When you disconnect the old boards, you cannot go back. Leaving a house with no electricity, when a 3 year old lives there is not funny.
If you start the job and can't finish it, you are going to struggle finding a spark to sort it (and the cost will be scary).

I can't stress enough that you should step back and leave this to a pro.
You could even ask if you could work with him and pick up some tips from him.
 
scousespark said:
These are both substantial jobs for someone part qualified to take on.

What are you going to do regarding testing? Do you have the relevant kit, know how to do the tests and do you know what the results indicate (especially bad results)? The LABC will expect test results.

I have an Insulation/Continuity/Voltage Tester, Yes I know what the results indicate

scousespark said:
A board change involves major responsibility; you are basically going to affect every circuit in your house. Do you know if the circuits are suitable for breakers and how you confirm this?

The old circuits are on breakers at the moment, & I will be testing the 4 old circuits.

There are 4 old circuits: Upstairs lights (6A), Downstairs Lights (6A), Upstairs Sockets (32A RCBO), & Downstairs Sockets (32A RCBO), which are on Type B MCBs at the moment.

There are 11 new circuits: Alarm (3A), Smoke & CO2 Alarms (6A), Immersion Heater/ CH (16A), Shed Freezer (16A RCBO), Kitchen Fridge (16A), Loft Sockets (20A RCBO), Shed Power (32A), Cooker, Kitchen,Utility, Bathroom & Back Outside lights (6A RCBO), Kitchen Sockets (32A RCBO), & Utility Room Sockets (32A RCBO)
 
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mdbalson said:
The old circuits are suitable for breakers, as they are on breakers at the moment.

That single sentence should tell you why you don't know enough to do these jobs. When you change a board you take responsibility for the full installation. You can only sign the job off after you have inspected and tested all existing circuits. The fact your lights work and you can work at your PC doesn't mean the circuits are installed correctly and are safe.
IMO that somebody with 2330 L2 is nowhere near ready for unsupervised jobs like the ones you seem happy to jump into. As the saying goes "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing" Get a spark to do these jobs.
 
To be fair to mdb, CCU is in the regs definitions as Consumer Control Unit.

I hope the bathroom light fitting(s) are suited to their zone.

You don't have to use 5A sockets, 2A would be fine, assuming the load does not exceed this value.
 
securespark said:
To be fair to mdb, CCU is in the regs definitions as Consumer Control Unit.

I hope the bathroom light fitting(s) are suited to their zone.

You don't have to use 5A sockets, 2A would be fine, assuming the load does not exceed this value.

Here is a picture showing the relationship of the bathroom light to the bath, etc.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/mdbalson/CopyofDSC00063.jpg

Close up of Bathroom Light:

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/mdbalson/DSC00064.jpg
 
securespark said:
To be fair to mdb, CCU is in the regs definitions as Consumer Control Unit.

I hope the bathroom light fitting(s) are suited to their zone.

You don't have to use 5A sockets, 2A would be fine, assuming the load does not exceed this value.

Here is a picture showing the relationship of the bathroom light to the bath, etc.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/mdbalson/CopyofDSC00063.jpg

Close up of Bathroom Light:

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/mdbalson/DSC00064.jpg

Bottom of fitting > 2.25m of floor? If so, it is in Z3 & OK
 
Some more pics of the old electrics

The old undercupboard lights (There were 4 of these under the run of wall cupboards on the cooker side of the kitchen

DSC00084.jpg


Plug for the 4th undercupboard light

DSC00082.jpg


Join in the cable feding the 4th undercupboard light

DSC00079.jpg


Close Up of one of the old undercupboard lights (You can see where the fitting has got too hot & burned, all four fittings were like this)

DSC00090.jpg



The old Bathroom light switch

DSC00078.jpg


The socket feding the fridge

DSC00052.jpg


The fridge cable

DSC00051.jpg


The fridge socket

DSC00053.jpg


The washing machine & tumble dryer socket

DSC00055.jpg


One of the 3 kitchen ring sockets

DSC00073.jpg


The old ring circuit wiring (You can see where both legs of the ring were too short to reach to the CCU, so the old people joined another piece of T+E to the old bits using choc Blocks)

DSC00100.jpg


The old ring circuit wiring(You can see where the cables were not chased in deep)

DSC00099.jpg


The temp sockets I put in so that there is power in the kitchen for now

Wiring the temp. Sockets
DSC00101.jpg


DSC00115.jpg


DSC00114-1.jpg


Close up of the temp sockets (From the top socket, Door bell, air fresher, fridge, washing machine & tumble dryer, back floodlight, radio, kitchen lights, cooker)

DSC00119.jpg


The house electric supply

DSC00117.jpg


The Temp join for the courtyard socket

DSC00077.jpg


The temp join in the back floodlight cable

DSC00110.jpg


The temp 110V kitchen lights

DSC001111.jpg


The temp 110V kitchen lights

DSC001133.jpg


The temp 110V kitchen lights

DSC001122.jpg


DSC00127.jpg




After the Kitchen is done the next job will be, to turn this covered courtyard into a Utility Room (When I am doing the kitchen electrics, I will run out the cables for the lights & sockets in the new utility room)

P9150105.jpg
 
Some More Pictures Of the Old Wiring

Cable Chase from the old Double Socket by the sink

DSC00139.jpg


The Old Hole from the Double Socket by the sink

DSC00140.jpg


The old chases from the Bathroom light switch

DSC00135.jpg


How NOT to Join a Cable

DSC00137.jpg


Close up of the Bad Joint

DSC00136.jpg


The joint in the 2 pictures above was buryed in the plaster, the cable with the joint in, goes to the bathroom light

The old hole from the Bathroom light switch

DSC00141.jpg
 
How can I replace the joint in the pictures below :?:

How NOT to Join a Cable

DSC00137.jpg


Close up of the Bad Joint

DSC00136.jpg


The joint in the 2 pictures above was buryed in the plaster, the cable with the joint in, goes to the bathroom light

As this cable (on the left) goes to the bathroom light, & cannot be replaced, as the cable runs under some of the tiles in the bathroom.

Could I crimp the old piece of cable to a new piece of cable, & wrap tape around the joint, & then put the joint above the ceiling :?:
 
If you don't know whether crimping is okay, don't you think you should at least think of getting somebody qualified in to do the job.

Is the bathroom upstairs? If so put the light on that circuit and blank off the existing switch. Crimping would be okay, but it's a bodge during a rewire.
 
Is the bathroom upstairs? If so put the light on that circuit and blank off the existing switch. Crimping would be okay, but it's a bodge during a rewire.

The bathroom is downstairs, off of the kitchen. I would have liked to replace the piece of cable, but to do so would mean chiping off some of the wall tiles in the bathroom, to replace the cable. (the bathroom is a single storey extension on the back off the house)
 
So crimping a new piece of cable, to the old piece of cable, would be ok :?:
 

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