Replacing the Kitchen

Temp. Electric Supply to the Covered Courtyard.

The supply plugs for the temp. courtyard power feed

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Supply cables from shed to courtyard

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The 16A blue commando connectors

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The Waterproof box for the sockets

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The closed waterproof box

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The kitchen wall where the outside tap & socket were

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I dont understand why you insist on keeping the wine cooler running throughout this. Its hardly esssential, is it?

And why must we have this step by step dissection of everything that it in your kitchen / outdoor courtyard?

Yes, we like pictures, but not wine racks and feckin tumble dryers!

Please, stick to the point, MDB.
 
You started in September and it looks like you'll be done by Christmas..







































2008
 
Here are some more pictures

3rd Kitchen Light Switch (By Bathroom Door)

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The 1st gang is for the bathroom light & the 2nd gang (On 2way switching with 2nd gang of 1st Kitchen Light Switch, by the dining room door) is for the 4 downlights in the ceiling, down the bathroom end of the Kitchen.

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Worktop Socket

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The socket for the worktop socket

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The fridge socket

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The 1st Kitchen Light Switch

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The 1st Gang is the 5 kitchen downlights at the dining room end of the kitchen, the 2nd Gang is the 4 kitchen downlights at the bathroom end of the kitchen, & the 3rd Gang is all of the undercupboard lights.

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Kitchen Downlights

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The 1st undercupboard light

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More general pictures of the kitchen are on this post: //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=871961#871961
 
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And why must we have this step by step dissection of everything that it in your kitchen / outdoor courtyard?

Yes, we like pictures, but not wine racks and feckin tumble dryers!
You must admit though that it's huge relief to find out how much paper was used on the ceiling.
 
I dont understand why you insist on keeping the wine cooler running throughout this. Its hardly esssential, is it?

If I told my wife she was going to have no kitchen for 7 months, I think she'd insist on having her wine chilled.
 
What's this obsession with sockets when FCUs would be a more elegant solution?

The 15A one is for the worktop socket, I used a 15A Round Pin Socket, fed by an switched FCU (above the wall cupboards) here because I did not want the fuse for the worktop to be stuck beheid the corner floor cupboard where I would not be able to get to it if the fuse blowed.

The 5A ones are for the undercupboard lights, I used sockets instead of FCU's because as the undercupboard lights are to be on the back extension lighting circuit, I did not want to have lots of unnessesre fuses for the undercupboard lights, as they will be protected by the 6A RCBO for the back extension lighting circuit.

The 2nd one BTW looks too close to that surface.

The 2nd socket is for the 1st undercupboard light, & is about 3cm from the top of the wall cupboard.
 
Is it only me that thinks a single 3 tripple socket protected by a 13A fuse is not really enough for the whole of a kitchen work surface? Or am I missing more further along?
Why the masses of wire behind the accessories too? I understand leaving them long enough so the accessory can be replaced at a later date.
 

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Any reason why the earths are terminated like that.
The socket earth bar is now acting as part of the earth continuity conducter.
 
Is it only me that thinks a single 3 tripple socket protected by a 13A fuse is not really enough for the whole of a kitchen work surface? Or am I missing more further along?

The worktop socket is only used for the toaster, or waffle maker, or wisk. The worktop socket is in the worktop in the corner of the cooker side of the kitchen.

Why the masses of wire behind the accessories too? I understand leaving them long enough so the accessory can be replaced at a later date.

Do you mean all of the cables behied the light switches, if so, there are so many as:

The 1st sw has: 1 x 3C+E for the 2w link to the 3rd sw, & 2 x T+E for the Perm. Live & the 3 SR's.

The 3rd sw has: 1 x 3C+E for the 2w link to the 1st sw, 1 x T+E for the Perm. Live & Neutral, & 1 x T+E for the SR Live & Perm. Neutral to the Bathroom Light.
 
It just doesn't seem like many sockets to me for a kitchen work area even if they are not currently intended for continuous use, doesn't leave many options open.
 
It just doesn't seem like many sockets to me for a kitchen work area even if they are not currently intended for continuous use, doesn't leave many options open.

On the cooker side of the kitchen there is a DSO behied the fridge, a DSO above the corner wall cupboard, the 3 gang pullup worktop socket, & a 1g undercupboard socket for the TV.

On the sink side of the kitchen there is 2 x 1g undercupboard sockets (1 for the cordless phone charger & 1 for the kettle), 1 (unsw) SSO under the worktop for the dishwasher (controlled by a DP SW above the worktop), & 1 (sw)SSO for the scale reducer.

And when the covered courtyard is turned into the utitly room it will be on its own ring circuit. In the utitly room ring will be: Washing Machine, Tumble Dryer, Wine Cooler, Microwave, Slow Cooker, & Bread Maker
 

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