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Replacing with SuperSwitch Central Heating Programmer with Drayton LP711

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by eezzeeman, 23 Feb 2018.

  1. eezzeeman

    eezzeeman

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    @stem

    I too am amazed & worried that this was not mentioned in my combination of research and getting advice from "Drayton Technical Staff" and electricians. Especially with the level of detail i gave them re boiler etc similar to what i originally started with this post along with pictures.

    @stem = i think you would do well to set up a chargeable consultancy. Your advice has been, by far, the most professional and comprehensive that i have come across...

    Thank you again
     
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  3. stem

    stem

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    Thank you for you kind comments, I am glad to have been of help.
     
  4. Wildcat1961

    Wildcat1961

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    LP711 can be used in conjunction with a relay/contactor.
     
  5. stem

    stem

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    True you could, but I wonder why anyone would do. What's the point in going to the extra trouble and cost to install and wire in a contactor when there are many devices available off the shelf perfectly suitable for this application without any additional extras. It's adding additional complication for no benefit.
     
  6. Wildcat1961

    Wildcat1961

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    Many immersion heater elements are switched via contactors (single phase/3 phase)
    If the OP is adamant on using the LP711 then yes it can be done.
    Hardly expensive purchasing a contactor/enclosure, not exactly rocket science either.
     
  7. Wildcat1961

    Wildcat1961

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    But you advised the use of a contactor in a post today regarding a 2kw heater?
     
    Last edited: 3 Mar 2018
  8. JohnD

    JohnD

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    "Many?"
     
  9. Wildcat1961

    Wildcat1961

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    Yes.
    Especially so in the commercial sector.
     
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  11. JohnD

    JohnD

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    I wonder what word we should use to describe the vastly greater number that don't have a contactor.
     
  12. stem

    stem

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    And why not? 'Horses for courses' ;)

    In the other post the OP specifically wanted to use a controller that he had chosen and specified (Nest) probably because of the features it gives, so the appropriate solution was offered.

    In this thread the OP's didn't specify a particular product, they just wanted a timer and as there are many available without the additional cost / complication of a adding a contactor, the advice given was different.

    I don't have fixed solutions, but always try to give the best advice I can tailored to their requirements of each person, that is clear and appropriate for their application. I'm sorry if you don't see it the same.

    I've installed a few myself in industry, but not seen any in a domestic setting, because it's not necessary.

    In this case it would add £50 or so to the cost unnecessarily.

    If might be easy for you, but this is a DIY forum.
     
  13. Wildcat1961

    Wildcat1961

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    Many many many.
    I suggested a solution in order for the LP711 to be used in conjunction with a 3kw immersion heater.
    It’s neither expensive nor is it rocket science, it appears that Stem has now adopted this method as he advised another member earlier today to use a relay/contactor in order to switch a 2kw oil filled electric heater, this was a thread in the ‘appliance’ section of the forum.
     
  14. stem

    stem

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    Yes and I have explained why above.
     
  15. Wildcat1961

    Wildcat1961

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    The OP in the other post is YOU.;)
    You have many many many usernames Stem.;)
     
  16. eezzeeman

    eezzeeman

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    OK - well - this post has been a bit busier than i anticipated!
    What i've done since has been to obviously return the Drayton LP711 and now have ready to deploy, a TimeGuard NTT08 which should firstly, solve the issue which the other user had re switch rating. This is a 16A, whilst the PulsaCoil III has a 15a spec.

    I find i have more confidence in the advice dispensed here than that given to me by electricians i have called in my area so...

    Included are

    1) pics from before - again with original setup
    N in/out= Neutral (Blue) - and black
    L in = red
    L out (ch only) = (no wiring)
    L out = brown wire
    Not used
    thermostat2.jpg
    2) pics of wiring
    thermostat3a.jpg
    3)pic of TimeGuard NTT08 with Left to Right labelling (as per instructions sheet)
    L = Live Supply
    N1 = Neutral Supply
    N2= Neutral supply to immersion heater
    L1 Switched LIve to immersion heater
    E = Earth Continuity


    Based on 3) - i would assume that my configuration would be

    L = Red
    N1 = Black
    N2 = Blue
    L1 = Brown
    E = both respective yellow/green earth


    Cheers
     

    Attached Files:

  17. stem

    stem

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    Looks good to me :)
     
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