Roofing and sofit question

[Mick Leek]

mnb

cheers for the info once again

I have now fitted the soffits and facia's. I have followed the instructions kindly posted by my mate stan and others.

www.phenomenalfireworks.co.uk/images/soffit2.jpg

does this look correct ? I have left it so it stands about 40/45 mm above the rafters

Mick.

 

[Nige F]

Nice house next door Bricks painted Brick Red

 

[Nige F]

mick,
Dont use lead to bridge the cavity ,it will slump in time and defeat the purose. Use the correct custom items. it can be tricky doing stepped trays.
The cutting advice is to cut approx. 15 - 22mm into the brickwork not just the render. If you go your route then use a small angle grinder to neatly undercut along the beds - dont go overboard knocking off render.
Behind the S&V stack use the flashing as a back gutter - like at the roof
stack or chimney.
Remember to work from low to high with flashing.

Definitely.......Cavity Trays of Yeoville are the manuftrs. of the best known ones.I`ve seen whole walls ripped out because the detail of lead trays wasn`t right.S`allright it was on "social Housing" so the Gov. payed.after the contractors had buggered off

 

[masona]

www.phenomenalfireworks.co.uk/images/soffit2.jpg

does this look correct ? I have left it so it stands about 40/45 mm above the rafters

That's fine, if it's any deeper we used to run another joist on the side of the roof rafters to change the angle, you may have seen them where the bottom of the roof tiles have 2 pitch angle, the idea of this to slow down the rain into the gutter.

 

[Mick Leek]

Cheers Guys,

One question though,

it may sound silly but wont the underlay now cause a water trap ? unless i am mistaken the underlay is layed on the rafters, then the 25mm x 50mm tile battons. Ok so the batton will bring up the level for the tiles But wont the felt be behind the facia ? or am i missing something here ?


Also, i was thinking of using those plastic eves protector things that direct the water into the gutter and are meant to protect the underlay. How do i go about fitting those ?

Do i notch out the facia board where the vallet trough comes over or is this simply laid over again ? I was told NOT to board the valley but simply to use a GRP valley.. So many recomendations i dont know which way to go now.

Mick.

 

[noseall]

some roofers, that can be bothered, lay 450mm d.p.c. horizontally along the rafters forming a drip into the gutter, as the underslaters material is very vulnerable at this point. this in turn helps prevent sag wich is commonplace at eaves detail. don't recommend cutting out fascia for the valley though ,as this can sometimes cause problems for the guttering particularly on steeper roofs and instances where the gutter needs to be kept high at this point.

 

[Mick Leek]

Cheers noseall,

If you look at the picture, how will the underlay not form a water trap where it goes down the rafters then meets the fascia board. Once it reaches the board it will have to go up and over. Surely that will create a 40mm rise and hold water?

Thanks
Mick.

 

[masona]

I use strip of thin plywood on the tip of the fascia to support the roofing felt up to the 1st batten of the tiles.

 

[Mick Leek]

Masona,

Have you seen the plastic eves protectors ? they are thin black plastic that curl down into the gutter. I was thinking of using those.

I think they about a meter in legnth and 3mm thick. Are these any good ?

http://www.swishbp.co.uk/swish-122

Cheers

 

[masona]

Yes they're okay but don't know how much they are or if it work out cheaper than plywood

 

[ali68]

Been following this post with interest. Dont know if this site will help with your up and coming lead work.

http://www.leadsheetassociation.org.uk/html/1406.html

 

[empip]

Masona,

Have you seen the plastic eves protectors ? they are thin black plastic that curl down into the gutter. I was thinking of using those.

I think they about a meter in legnth and 3mm thick. Are these any good ?

http://www.swishbp.co.uk/swish-122

Cheers

Look here for a 'how to' ..
http://www.elite4roofline.co.uk/installation.htm

NB there is no need for the separate items see the next web site below, roof edge, bird comb and 'over fascia venting' all in one !
No idea of quality or if pricing good or bad.
http://www.casupply.co.uk/acatalog/cladacc.html
At least there are pix of the different items.

I have the 'roofline' product with bird combs under 1st row of tiles and into gutter ... seems fine, hopefully the plastic will not sag like the 25 yr old felt had done under that last row of tiles... Birds, we do not want !!

 

[Mick Leek]

Ali68 & empip

Thanks to both of you. If you look at the link you sent of the removal of the sofit and fascia, you can see the problem i thought would happen with having the fascia board so high. It creates a gulley so the water cant get into the gutter...

I know it was quoted on here that the reason for the upturn is to reduce the pitch angle in order to slow down the water, but with my pitch 19 degrees was it rteallt neccessary?

Thanks all, I now know how to do it. Think i will get the plastic things to make life easier.

Mick

 

[mnb]

great advice and web site ref's from these guys.
There was traditionally a timber canting fillet at the dip behind the fascia where ponding could take place and it took the felt on to the fascia without sagging.ie the felt lapped over the fillet.
The difficulty you might find is when you come to do the bottom of the valley - sometimes the fascia has to be cut to allow the valley to "flow" into the 90 degree angle guttering. Difficult to advise until we know exactly how you propose to do the roof detailing. I assume that the fascia height was set to maintain the tile plane on the bottom row of tile?
Remember that the felt or "plastic" has to reach either 50mm into the gutter or end at its centre line, dont leave yourself short. And make sure that any "plastic" insert is tucked up below the roof felt

 

[Mick Leek]

Ok Guys and Galls.

Here is todays problem.

I have now finished fitting all the fascia's and soffits (also learnt how to spell FASCIA) i have fitted 9" fascias and 9" soffits, but what the heck do i do here

www.phenomenalfireworks.co.uk/images/help.jpg

There is a concrete plinth over the front door that will be hidden inside the new roof. I made provisions so the roof timbers and the level of the soffits would hide all this whilst still being able to extent the eves overhang that will create the roof for the bay window. ( will have a bay same as the one you can just see)

Problem is i cant get soffit boards big enough to cover the plinth and new wood work for eves. Building regs meant we had to either come out from exsisting building or back. if we went back we couldn't get a door from the hallway into the new room as the stair step would have been in the way so we had no choice but to come out.

Any ideas, or is this going to have to be plyed and painted Wanted no more maintenance option if possible with plastic.