Sound Proof Teen's Bedroom

[Mottie]

When we had an office partitioned off in work a few years ago, the architect specified two layers of plasterboard on one side only with rock wool in between the studs. Worked very well.

 

[noseall]

My sisters shared a room that size in my parents home for 15+ years .

Some folk live in a very insulated world.

Thanks for your advice

As said by other posters, mass is your friend. Doubled up (dense) plasterboards with the joints staggered is a good idea. As is sealing the B'jesus out of every gap you can see, around the wall/floor/ceiling abutment. Skimming the lot is essential.

 

[Tigercubrider]

When we had an office partitioned off in work a few years ago, the architect specified two layers of plasterboard on one side only with rock wool in between the studs. Worked very well.

But you (hopefully ) didn’t sleep there with a TV going next door?

In addition to the advice previously, decoupling the new walls from the floor using a neoprene strip 4” wide and 1” thick helps.

 

[big-all]

also worth noting find a nice rug and hang it on the wall
place furniture on the partition walls just anything to absorb sound

 

[Alec_t]

Why not just switch off/disable the TV's speakers and use Bluetooth headphones in the parents' room? Or is the sound-proofing intended to prevent the daughter's 'music' system from disturbing the parents' sleep?

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

From a building regs point of view, you are fine as it has a window (Assuming you can get out of it) and access to other easy alternate routes out.

I would use metal studs, double plasterboard with Rockwool RWA45 or similar sound insulation. It shouldn't be full fill, it should be about or just over half, and be against 1 of the sides. The mixture of different densities is what reduces the airbourne noise. You can get acoustic sealant for around the perimeter of the plasterboard, but I've never tried it so can't rate it.

You would also need to keep the door quite tight to the floor to stop sound transmission that way.

This is a pretty reasonable set-up, definitely use the sealant around the perimeters of all boards edges, anywhere, consider the using resilient bars too on any walls if you don't intend on fixing anything to the walls though that takes more space, you could use 48mm metal studs but 70mm studs would increase sound resistance but take away further space, adding an acoustic strip to a fire door would help too. Important boring bit, the room musty have it's own means of escape, otherwise you'll not be complying with Building Regs (which you should also apply for as the work is notifiable), your house insurance would be invalid and you risk the life of anyone staying in the room (kids often sleep through smoke alarms):

To be suitable for escape purposes, windows should conform to the following dimensions:

It should have an unobstructed opening area
of 0.33 sq.m and have a minimum dimension
of 450 mm in either direction. The bottom of
the opening should be no more than 1100mm
above the floor.

Note: a window 450 mm x 450 mm will not meet
the 0.33 sq.m criteria. In practice, the minimum
clear openable area is 450mm x 734mm.

Have a looksee at the white book for some tips and further reading eg: https://www.british-gypsum.com/docu...wb-gypwall-single-frame-with-introduction.pdf

 

[cdbe]

They just lead to the hall

What I meant, obviously without seeing the rest of the layout, is it a door that could be relocated?

 

[evilfootware]

it should really have ventilation does it have a window or ventilation

Yes, it has a window

 

[evilfootware]

What I meant, obviously without seeing the rest of the layout, is it a door that could be relocated?

View attachment 304579

The small red blob closest to the window in the current door location, which leads into the hall. We were thinking of re-locating the the door (bigger of the red blobs), but that is a main supporting wall, and the kitchen is directly behind that, so if we moved the door there, we would loose space in the kitchen.

 

[If in doubt...]

I’ve designed and built recording studios with very high sound reduction properties - you could end up spending a lot of time and money and not gaining much at all. Even with a Partition wall built to very high specification you may still find the sound gets in to next door by other means - but if we are talking just a TV sound then the most balanced approach would be using soundbloc (blue) plasterboard partition wall (2sheets each side if you really must) and all gaps and edges filled with AC50 acoustic sealant, then dense rockwool to fill the cavity. Then lots of soft furnishings instead of hard surfaces (carpet not laminate). Finally have separate speakers for the tele sound and mount them nearer the listener if possible.

 

[matlob]

If the bed can fit under the window I'd move the bed to the other side of the room so not directly next to the new wall.

 

[Wayners]

Resilient bars. Sound block plasterboard 2 layers.
Don't let any of the board edges touch the sides so use 3mm packers all around. Boards need to float away from edges.
When its boarded (ceiling and walls) pull packers and fill gaps with acoustic mastic.
Tape and skim.

Sound proofing is all or nothing. Can be a costly project with no real benefit if you don't do it correctly. Just using sound block plasterboard won't do anything.

Guess you could go 75mm stud. Bars are 10mm. 2 X 12.5mm board so that will be 110mm thick wall

Floor I don't know how to soundproof

Picture shows wall ready to plasterboard

 

[Diver Fred]

May I suggest that you add the new door into the lounge. Then rather than have two new walls in the lounge area you put one new wall up (at the left hand end of your rough plan) say 8ft(2.4m) from the L/H end across the whole room.
That takes away the 'corridor' and provides a less 'public' entrance to the new bedroom for your daughter. I'd also suggest it will effectively have a feeling of more space into the lounge and also increase the value of your house as the new 'room' can in future be a bedroom now, a study or office.