Unless the ceiling is a fire compartment barrier he doesn't need firehoods.I use a plant pot too, but Screwfix do intumescent hoods - 70589.
Expensive for what they are but you do need something.
John
Spot light loft protectors?
- Thread starter OM2
- Start date
L
LooPrEvil
react to fire to close off the hole in the ceiling.
The plaster board contains the fire in the room long enough to enable people to leave the room above before the floor starts to burn.
Cut holes in the ceiling and the fire goes up through the hole and the joists and floor boards start to burn. Smoke gets into the room and people may die from smoke inhalation before they wake up
Smoke and flames into loft are just as dangerous.
Your choice as to how to stop fire going through the hole(s).
very interesting
so you're actually saying that it's WISE to actually close the gap above the spotlight in the ceiling in the loft?
the explanation you gave is brilliant - and makes sense
at the same time though - i can still see the sense of having the holes - otherwise u get a build up of heat surely
my choice in that case is, if i do use plant pots, then do i drill exra holes?
something else that is probably of relevance is the height and volume contained in the plant pot - too small... then you are in danger of building up heat unecessarily?
hmm... much wiser than before... but still a bit confused on the whole subject now!
L
LooPrEvil
To be honest I would use LED lights nowadays. They give the brightness and are lot more energy efficient, without the issue of heat being a concern.
No - what you need is a completely sealed box large enough to provide the clearances specified by the manufacturer.
Full ventilation = a full path for warm moist air to get into the cold loft where it will condense and rot the roof timbers.
Full ventilation = a full path for warm air carrying the inevitable dust etc to rise upwards to the same places all the time, discolouring the ceiling.
Full ventilation = a full path for cold air from the loft to fall down into the rooms below when the lights aren't on. Most people term that sort of air movement "a draught".
- http://www.nhbc.co.uk/NHBCPublicati...ical/StandardsExtra/filedownload,16553,en.pdf
- Pre-formed cap to seal downlights: http://www.aico.co.uk/downlights-in-loft-space-what-to-fit.html (It's NOT a firehood....)
- IET article on installing downlighters safely
aah... funny u mention that
i've been looking at prices on ebay and they seem to be dirt cheap!?
definitely switching to led
LED lamps are like work.
Good ones aren't cheap, and cheap ones aren't good.
Good ones aren't cheap, and cheap ones aren't good.
great reply
i think i'm petty clued up now
thanks for all the replies (everyone)
the answer wasnt necessarily obvious to the layman
Intumescent hoods / fire rated downlights
are almost never required in domestic properties, as the vast majority of ceilings do not form part of a fire compartment.
The most common exception in houses would be the ceiling of an integral garage, however most people would not be fitting downlights in there.
Ceilings between individual flats in a block or converted house may need these - however fitting downlights in this situation will almost always contravene various other sections of the building regulations in ways that cannot be fixed, so the solution is not to fit them at all.
Loft covers
are there to prevent insulation and other stuff being piled on the back of the light fittings. Some are ventilated, some are not. They are almost always required, as without them, insulation will end up over the lights causing them to overheat and fail.
Another issue is the passage of air through the downlight holes, which can lead to condensation and mould in the loft space. This can be resolved by sealing the covers to the back of the ceiling, or using sealed light fittings.
are almost never required in domestic properties, as the vast majority of ceilings do not form part of a fire compartment.
The most common exception in houses would be the ceiling of an integral garage, however most people would not be fitting downlights in there.
Ceilings between individual flats in a block or converted house may need these - however fitting downlights in this situation will almost always contravene various other sections of the building regulations in ways that cannot be fixed, so the solution is not to fit them at all.
Loft covers
are there to prevent insulation and other stuff being piled on the back of the light fittings. Some are ventilated, some are not. They are almost always required, as without them, insulation will end up over the lights causing them to overheat and fail.
Another issue is the passage of air through the downlight holes, which can lead to condensation and mould in the loft space. This can be resolved by sealing the covers to the back of the ceiling, or using sealed light fittings.
well... funny u mention that
i'm talking to a large seller in china about selling these online
i know this might be going a bit off topic, but how would you say u determine ones that are 'not so good'?
L
LooPrEvil
well... funny u mention that
i'm talking to a large seller in china about selling these online
i know this might be going a bit off topic, but how would you say u determine ones that are 'not so good'?
Buy from a reputable wholesaler if you can, like CEF.
Isn't that an oxymoron?
awesome - i didn't know about them.
looking them up now - they're light come a 3 year warranty - which a good stamp of approval i think
i'm more than happy to buy in bulk as a business reseller
any other makes or standards u would recommend?
thanks
3 year warranty is all very well, but will the company be around in 3 years time?
Find out what the lumen output is - lots of companies don't provide this information, and instead you get silly statements such as 'equivalent to 40w halogen' which really means 'equivalent to a 7w incandescent nightlight'
You also need to know what the lumen output is over time, as this inevitably reduces as the lamp is used.
Find out what the lumen output is - lots of companies don't provide this information, and instead you get silly statements such as 'equivalent to 40w halogen' which really means 'equivalent to a 7w incandescent nightlight'
You also need to know what the lumen output is over time, as this inevitably reduces as the lamp is used.
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