SWA resin joints

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I've got a SWA cable to repair next week which has been severed by a digger. The cable is cleated to a wall outside. Is a resin joint kit ok to use on a cable which is not buried in the ground and exposed to UV etc?
 
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I'd read the instructions on the individual joint kit, but other than that I can't see it being a problem. I have witnessed it done myself, at 11kV.
 
How much of the cable is damaged ? If it is a clean cut you might find there is enough slack to pull the ends together and a single joint will suffice.

Other wise you may need rwo joints and a length of cable to replace the damaged section.
 
I wouldn't be using a resin joint to joint a cable on a wall - It would be too much hassle for a start.

An adaptable box or too would be my choice - What size cable?
 
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I've not seen the job yet so I don't know how bad the damage is or what size cable, but it sounds like it'll be a small one. Maybe 6 mil 3 core or less.

The job is on a farm so looks are not really important but reliability is.

I've found joints with gewiss boxes etc and CW glands to be difficult to get properly waterproof, whereas resin joints are cheap and easy to use and proven to be reliable underground. I'm just not sure if they'll break down due to UV exposure.
 
The job is on a farm so looks are not really important but reliability is. I've found joints with gewiss boxes etc and CW glands to be difficult to get properly waterproof, whereas resin joints are cheap and easy to use and proven to be reliable underground. I'm just not sure if they'll break down due to UV exposure.
If you really want to use a resin joint, but are concerned about the effects of UV exposure (and particularly given that appearance is not really an issue), you could always put the resin joint inside an enclosure to protect it from the UV.

Kind Regards, John
 
put the resin joint inside an enclosure to protect it from the UV.
As far as I am aware, it already is, insomuch as the cheap plastic casing is there more as something to hold the resin in place whilst it's setting, rather than being a functional part of the finished joint.
 
I would use an adaptable box, the resin joints are not really made to be fixed to a wall and really will look terrible and be prone to damage.
I suppose you could use two adaptable boxes and turn the cable so the glands entre from the bottom then use a piece of conduit between them rather then a silly piece of SWA
 
put the resin joint inside an enclosure to protect it from the UV.
As far as I am aware, it already is, insomuch as the cheap plastic casing is there more as something to hold the resin in place whilst it's setting, rather than being a functional part of the finished joint.
I would think that's true. However, the OP clearly has a concern, so I suggested a solution to address that concern!

I have to say that I would personally be very hesitant to use a resin-filled joint 'unnecessarily' above ground - after all, they are the ultimate in 'inaccessible joints', even when physically very accessible! In the OP's position, I would almost certainly use some of sort of adaptable box(es).

Kind Regards, John
 
Thanks for the replies. Turned out it was only a 5 meter run of 4 mil 3 core, so I replaced the cable with out the need for a joint.
 

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