Texacom Bell Box & Panel Wiring - Alternative config nee

[Alarm]

Hey Alarm.. I'll re-read the post , but you should read the manual.

Whys that then ?
1amp for bells and strobe?
1.6 for detection?

How to programme a Texe?
Enlighten me please.

From post 1 it was obvious there was more than 2 sounders and strobes.

 

[den1s]

The strobes in the Odyssey sounders draw 110mA each, and the sounders draw 300 or 425mA each depending on whether you use the Odyssey 1e/2e/3e/4e or 1/2/3/4 respectively.

The maximum TOTAL current draw from the panel is 1A, and outputs for the strobe and sounder are each rated for 1A. You will probably need a second PSU to drive multiple sounders once you take into account the quiescent current of the panel, keypads, comms any anything else on there.

Do you really need more than 2 external bell boxes? Is the Veritas the best choice?

Thanks aptsys

The extra boxes above 2 are only required for "Strobe and Flashing led" deterrent value. I only actually need 2 as sounders.

Is the Veritas best choice ? I don't know, it seemed to have the extra power for 6 keypads so I assumed (may be incorrectly) possibly that it may have the power - from what I have read it seems to be well respected and reliable - what do you think. Is there a suitable Panel that will give a slightly better output.

I will only be using 1 keypad.

The 7 Microwave/Pir sensors I have each draw an active current of 24ma so that totals 168ma for the PIRs.

So 4 additional strobes to the 4 extra boxes @ 110ma each = 440ma + 168ma for the Sensors + 1E Sounder 425ma. TOTAL 1033ma

Is this too much?

Would it be complicated to add an extra PSU?

 

[aptsys]

Don't forget the panel also draws 50mA (150mA in alarm) plus power to charge the battery (120mA).

It's not difficult to add an extra power supply to the system.

 

[den1s]

Don't forget the panel also draws 50mA (150mA in alarm) plus power to charge the battery (120mA).

It's not difficult to add an extra power supply to the system.

Thanks

Can you suggest where I can find a suitable circuit diagram and spec please.

 

[Europlex]

PSU beside the panel

Movement detectors powered by the PSU not the panel

Neg (12v) at PSU joined to Neg (12v) at panel

Simples.

 

[aptsys]

The PSU will just have a pair of output terminals for power, plus tamper, battery good and AC good outputs.

Just spread the load appropriately between the AUX terminals on the panel and the power terminals on the external PSU, and make sure you have a common 0V between the two.

I cannot remember if the Veritas Excel lets you program the auxiliary input as 'PSU Monitor' or not, but you can usually link the AC good/battery good/tamper terminals with 2k2,4k7 and 10k resistors on Texecom panels to get external PSU diagnostics on the panel.


edit: too slow

 

[den1s]

The PSU will just have a pair of output terminals for power, plus tamper, battery good and AC good outputs.

Just spread the load appropriately between the AUX terminals on the panel and the power terminals on the external PSU, and make sure you have a common 0V between the two.

I cannot remember if the Veritas Excel lets you program the auxiliary input as 'PSU Monitor' or not, but you can usually link the AC good/battery good/tamper terminals with 2k2,4k7 and 10k resistors on Texecom panels to get external PSU diagnostics on the panel.


edit: too slow

Thanks aptsys and Europlex

I'm not sure where to look for the correct type of extra PSU, is there any chance of a "link" please to point me in the right direction.?

Could this extra PSU deliver the power supply to the extra Sounder boxes, just leaving the Main control panel to do the switching, or does this make things even more complicated.? Trying to find the easiest most reliable option.

Value your experience, thanks.

 

[aptsys]

Since you're already using a Texecom panel, you could use the Texecom PSU200. There's also a range of Elmdene PSU's which would be suitable. Take a look at the Elmdene 1381N at Security Warehouse as a starting point (other retailers are available)

 

[den1s]

Since you're already using a Texecom panel, you could use the Texecom PSU200. There's also a range of Elmdene PSU's which would be suitable. Take a look at the Elmdene 1381N at Security Warehouse as a starting point (other retailers are available)

Thanks aptsys

The Elmdene looks good value. According to the above figures I would need to provide a min. extra 303ma power. If the Elmdene (or alternative) were used, with not having a wiring diagram, I am trying to visualise:

what connects to the main control box and

what connects to the Extra supply and whether it is simply a stabilised 12V standalone PSU or whether it has to have a battery.
(I would like keep standby power consumption as low as practical)

how one commuicates with the other.

Thanks

 

[den1s]

Since you're already using a Texecom panel, you could use the Texecom PSU200. There's also a range of Elmdene PSU's which would be suitable. Take a look at the Elmdene 1381N at Security Warehouse as a starting point (other retailers are available)

Thanks for your last post aptsys.

To avoid any confusion on my part, can you clarify and help with the following please.

I am about to order some items and just needed to confirm whether the 1381N works on its own, or needs a back up battery fitting inside (suggested size if poss). ?

Can I feed the extra Boxes from this supply or should it just be used for the Sensors.?

Do I need to make any common connections to the main panel ?

If I want to run just the strobes and Leds on some boxes, which connections should I use to avoid the siren. ?

Hope you can help, thanks.

 

[aptsys]

Hi,

The power supply will work without a battery in, but obviously would disable part of your alarm system if there was a power failure. You should fit a 12V (7.2Ah?) SLA battery inside.

You can split your loads however you want so long as you don't overload one of the supplies. I'd be inclined to power one bell box and the sensors from the panel and the other bell boxes from the separate PSU.

Just be sure to have a common ground (0V) between the two power supplies. I.e. link from your panel AUX Power 0V/negative to your external PSU 0V/negative out.

Remember to link in the tamper switch from the PSU to the panel.

 

[den1s]

Hi,

The power supply will work without a battery in, but obviously would disable part of your alarm system if there was a power failure. You should fit a 12V (7.2Ah?) SLA battery inside.

You can split your loads however you want so long as you don't overload one of the supplies. I'd be inclined to power one bell box and the sensors from the panel and the other bell boxes from the separate PSU.

Just be sure to have a common ground (0V) between the two power supplies. I.e. link from your panel AUX Power 0V/negative to your external PSU 0V/negative out.

Remember to link in the tamper switch from the PSU to the panel.

Final connections to sounders & Power -up.

Thanks very mch for your past help.

Along with CCTV the full External system is now installed, with just the final wiring of the sounders and powering up + programming to do.

Summary :-

Texacom Excel Panel, 7ah batt and RKP
Tex 1 Box - run from panel
7 x DSC LC151 External Microwave/ PIR detector run from panel, with high security EOL wiring (2 resistors)

1202EM 2amp PSU + battery
Tex 1 Box and 3x Tex 1E Box - to be run from PSU, with 3 in SAB and 1 Strobe only.

I have wired a common connection between the AUX -ve on the Main Panel and -ve on the PSU as you suggested.
Q1 - Do I need to take a further common -ve supply from the PSU to the Control Panel SAB section "D" terminal (Permanent Neg supply)?
Q2 - Do I use terminal A (perm +ve) only for the Tex1 run from the panel and PSU +ve for all the extra boxes ?
Q3 - Do I use terminals B and S parallel to 3 of the remaining boxes and B only to the 4th Box, connected to S at the Bell box end , to get strobe only on this Box. ?
Q5 - Do I connect all Box tamp connections in series to the C and D tamp connections. ?

POWER UP
Because of the extra PSU I am not sure of the power-up sequence of batteries and mains, can you advise please.

Thanks.

 

[joe-90]

Why not go for a Master Blaster?

 

[Alarm]

Why not go for a Master Blaster?

Yeah, chuck in some 240VAC sounders as well.
Nasty f@@kers and well worth the burst eardrums

 

[den1s]

Why not go for a Master Blaster?

Yeah, chuck in some 240VAC sounders as well.
Nasty f@@kers and well worth the burst eardrums

OK Guys, have your fun or take the p*** if you like , but their is a business opportunity also !

Here are the true facts:-

* There have been 7 break-ins within 2 miles since the attempted one on ours earlier this year.
* 3 have significant damage to doors/windows plus stolen goods
* One where the couple were bound & gagged then locked in the garage while the property was robbed
* One where the dog was poisoned
* Properties are spaced between 50 to 100 yards apart and most have screening from trees.

From any direction of approach day or night on our property there is now a visible bell box. All activity will be filmed.
I will probably see how it goes with just the 2 Tex1 sounders in souning mode, with the remaining units operating on Strobe Only, all cancelling when the sounder stops, probably between 2 to 5 mins I guess.

As professionals, can you offer an answer to the technical questions please.

Thankyou