Thermostatic electric shower low pressure display always on

[Johntheo5]

Oh. So presumably movement of the diaphragm under pressure lets the button pop out. Not what I would have expected.

The two heating element microswitches are definitely NC and it's possibly likely that the low pressure switch is dimensional the same but is NC, but you or I or anybody doesn't have to know this, if you specified that it is a low pressure switch that you required, anyway see what happens when/if you do the above suggested test.

 

[TryAgain1]

The two heating element microswitches are definitely NC and it's possibly likely that the low pressure switch is dimensional the same but is NC, but you or I or anybody doesn't have to know this, if you specified that it is a low pressure switch that you required, anyway see what happens when/if you do the above suggested test.

The test is, as of now, to remove the shower's front casing and see if the LP microswitch's button has been unpressed?

 

[Johntheo5]

Agree but there may only be a few mm difference, hard to see, my test will be or should be pretty conclusive after 5 pages of posts.

 

[TryAgain1]

Agree but there may only be a few mm difference, hard to see, my test will be or should be pretty conclusive after 5 pages of posts.

I tightened the microswitch screw very tight. The new microswitch did turn on/off at the right times (on at initial shower turn on then off after 10 seconds) then after 5 mins defaulted to always on. Seems to be a mechanical problem either the switch or the diaphragm.

 

[Johntheo5]

All the more reason to do test as per post# 61.

 

[TryAgain1]

All the more reason to do test as per post# 61.

Post 61 "presumably movement of the diaphragm under pressure lets the button pop out" I took the front shower cover off and the new microswitch (installed and connected, screwed down tight) did not pop out. But the shower LP light still came on

 

[Johntheo5]

OK, as per post #57. Wires attached, switch not in its dowelled position and switch on the shower.

 

[TryAgain1]

OK, as per post #57. Wires attached, switch not in its dowelled position and switch on the shower.

So both brown wires attached and switch not pressed in (poking out) then turn on shower?

 

[Johntheo5]

Whatever, as long as nothing pressing on the switch button when the shower is switched on, ie, diaphragm not touching the switch button at all.

 

[Johntheo5]

@TryAgain1, A friend of mine is thinking of installing one of these thermostatic showers but likes a showering temp of 41C/42C and is afraid the thermostat might limit this to 38C/40C. Sometime, you might turn the temperature control slowly to fully hot (with two elements) and check the max temperature reached, if no thermometer just see if it feels very hot, hotter than you use.

 

[TryAgain1]

@TryAgain1, A friend of mine is thinking of installing one of these thermostatic showers but likes a showering temp of 41C/42C and is afraid the thermostat might limit this to 38C/40C. Sometime, you might turn the temperature control slowly to fully hot (with two elements) and check the max temperature reached, if no thermometer just see if it feels very hot, hotter than you use.

So both brown wires attached and switch not pressed in (poking out) then turn on shower?

I removed the microswitch and the button pokes up (see pic 72, as is, front cover put back in, far left pic) then turned on the shower and the water was always cold even when on max heat (2 bars red) and the LP light did not come on. Here are the pics (2 to right) showing the microswitch put back in place indented in (default) - the red low pressure light came on.

So if the microswitch is in the correct position the LP light stays red (pic 2,3). If the microswitch is left hanging (pic 1) with switch poking out the LP light does not turn on.

So back to drawing board. As if now the shower works except for LP light still coming on. Does the white plastic diaphragm thing need greasing?

The 15mm copper pipe feeding the shower's main water inlet could be slightly bent although if this was causing LP then the flow would be slowed and flow is not restricted. I flushed the toilet with shower on and the shower head flow did slow then go back to normal flow but the LP red light was on throughout

 

[Johntheo5]

I'm afraid I don't know what's going on there, if that switch is for alarm purposes only, I cant see how it affects the heating elements microswitches operation.
If you rotate the photo 90deg anticlockwise, you can see above and to the right the neon switch, the two heating element microswitches, (one behind the other), the switches are operated by the hollow rectangular plastic pieces which have spring loaded pushrods attached which are pushed upwards by the diaphragm when the shower is switched on, the power selector has a shaft with two cams that sit inside the hollow rectangular bits with the cover in place, when a fully cold shower is required the two cams are positioned to push down the (spring loaded) pushrods a few mm so when the diaphragm is pushed up by the water pressure, neither of the microswitches can operate, if Eco (one element) operation is requested then one of the cams is no longer in contact with its rectangular piece and one microswitch will make and switch on one element. If both elements (full power) is required the the power control is further turned to its full power position and the other cam will now also not be in contact with its rectangular piece so full power operation is restored.
I cant figure out how the neon microswitch is operated, it may be by that inverted L shaped plastic bit that is also moved up by the diaphragm, but one way or the other I just don't understand how this interferes in any way with the power microswitches.

 

[TryAgain1]

I'm afraid I don't know what's going on there, if that switch is for alarm purposes only, I cant see how it affects the heating elements microswitches operation.
If you rotate the photo 90deg anticlockwise, you can see above and to the right the neon switch, the two heating element microswitches, (one behind the other), the switches are operated by the hollow rectangular plastic pieces which have spring loaded pushrods attached which are pushed upwards by the diaphragm when the shower is switched on, the power selector has a shaft with two cams that sit inside the hollow rectangular bits with the cover in place, when a fully cold shower is required the two cams are positioned to push down the (spring loaded) pushrods a few mm so when the diaphragm is pushed up by the water pressure, neither of the microswitches can operate, if Eco (one element) operation is requested then one of the cams is no longer in contact with its rectangular piece and one microswitch will make and switch on one element. If both elements (full power) is required the the power control is further turned to its full power position and the other cam will now also not be in contact with its rectangular piece so full power operation is restored.
I cant figure out how the neon microswitch is operated, it may be by that inverted L shaped plastic bit that is also moved up by the diaphragm, but one way or the other I just don't understand how this interferes in any way with the power microswitches.

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OK so I should call Triton tech and get a callout? I'vd tried all I can do without using a multimeter on the micro switch

 

[Johntheo5]

I think you should and you have very good grounds for a free fix since "This shower is brand new only been operating for a week", of course everyone would love to know the reason for this and why hanging it up kills the power to the heating elements.

 

[TryAgain1]

I think you should and you have very good grounds for a free fix since "This shower is brand new only been operating for a week", of course everyone would love to know the reason for this and why hanging it up kills the power to the heating elements.

Would Triton still try to claim callout/admin/bs fee?