Three spot lamps suddenly stopped working

Add up the sum of the 3 x lamps in watts, then use any transformer that is above the sum.

Simples.....

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...lights_Index/Lighting_Transformers/index.html

Any of the electronic one's will do, but make sure it's over the lamp load, so if you have 3 x 20w go for one above 60w.

The existing working one doesn't need to be changed, unless it is an overload issue, say 50w transformer, 60w load.
 
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Had spot lights fitted as part of new bathroom job last year?
Get the dozy and incompetent t**t who did that dreadful wiring to come back and re-do it safely.

Unenclosed choc-block....

Exposed cable cores....

Bits of tape....
 
Many thanks once again. I agree 100% with the quality comments by the way but is it possible that the unenclosed choc blocks etc would have caused the probs with the three spot lamps?

Can I get these from B&Q?

Cheers

L
 
Hi again
Think I’ve sussed the problem. Checked the bulbs that were kaput and two of the three were 50 rather than 20w. Replaced them and tried again but obviously the transformer is “cooked” as indicated. Bought another in B&Q which can cope with a load of 105w (smaller one was 50w so no good).

The B&Q ones are described as dimmer transformers so hope that doesn’t make a difference. Just have two queries about it:

1. The output wires are 25cm which is the norm I know but too short to get to the light. What type of flex/cable would you recommend to replace it?
2. The input wires have blue and brown sleeves but the output wires don’t Does it matter which connector in the light fitting I use?

Incidentally I caused the problem as I hurriedly replaced bulbs with the wrong ones when I accidentally smashed a few when fitting the thermal loft caps!!

Many thanks for your support. Feel like I’m getting to then end now!
L
 
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Apologies if this is too obvious but would really appreciate clarification on the transformer wiring as described.

Many thanks

L
 
Hi again
Think I’ve sussed the problem. Checked the bulbs that were kaput and two of the three were 50 rather than 20w. Replaced them and tried again but obviously the transformer is “cooked” as indicated. Bought another in B&Q which can cope with a load of 105w (smaller one was 50w so no good).

The B&Q ones are described as dimmer transformers so hope that doesn’t make a difference. Just have two queries about it:

1. The output wires are 25cm which is the norm I know but too short to get to the light. What type of flex/cable would you recommend to replace it?
2. The input wires have blue and brown sleeves but the output wires don’t Does it matter which connector in the light fitting I use?

Incidentally I caused the problem as I hurriedly replaced bulbs with the wrong ones when I accidentally smashed a few when fitting the thermal loft caps!!

Many thanks for your support. Feel like I’m getting to then end now!
L

Note if you use 3x50watt Lights fed by a 105w Tranny , it`ll cook , That Tranny is ok for 3x20watt or buy a 200Va Tranny if you are using 35/50watt Lamps

Lucky
 
Apologies but I do have one very very last question!

The new transformer (varlight) I’ve bought has two separate wires on the output side whereas the existing one just has one which then splits at the light.

Can I use a connector block to connect the output wires from the new transformer so that I can keep the existing wire which extends to the light?

Hope that makes sense.

Many thanks

Longshanks
 
Sorry to make a mountain out of a molehill here. I've bought the necessary transformer (105w), connector, choc box and bulbs.

I know the existing wiring is a mess and can use the replacement of the transformer as an opportunity to tidy it all up.

My only outstanding query is that the new tranny has two wires on the output side and I want to connect that to the existing flex that runs to the lights. Unfortunately this is normal flex split into blue and brown wires etc.

Can I use a connector to bridge the tranny wires to the existing flex?

(the varlight tranny has integral wires attached at output and input ends)

Many thanks

Longshanks
 
Hi again

I’m replacing a cooked tranny and using a 6 way 15 amp connector block to tidy up some crap wiring at the same time (230 to12v for bathroom spot lights).

In this case the connector block will obviously replace the old rose that was once there so am I right in thinking that you follow that wiring configuration with the connector block?

I.e.

• Switched live from switch cable connects to brown live wires from tranny
• Three live wires from switch, circuit in, circuit out could go into three separate terminals (as opposed to stuffed into the same one currently)
• Three earth in same terminal
• Two neutral cables from circuit in and circuit out go into one and connect with blue wires from trannies
• Last hole used for the three earths.

Not trying to waste people’s time with basic stuff but it seems that there are various options with a 6 hole connector and I wanted to use the one the majority prefer.

Conversely would it be preferable to buy a12 hole connector and then use 10 of the holes? (just wasn’t sure whether you could connect the two neutral wires from the circuit to the blue tranny wires separately or whether they had to be connected either side of the one hole?

Many thanks

L
 
Three live wires from switch, circuit in, circuit out could go into three separate terminals (as opposed to stuffed into the same one currently)
Those three wires need to be connected together, otherwise this light and several others won't work.

For a normal lighting circuit, 4 terminals are required
- all earths
- all neutrals
- all permanent live
- switched live

Not sure why you think 6 or 10 terminals are needed?
 
Many thanks

In relation to the three separate live wires etc I was just referring to the bog standard ceiling rose arrangement where those three reds used to gon into separate connectors in the same block.
 

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