To hardwire or not to hardwire my oven?

A SPANNER IN THE WORKS! - will have to look at the hob to see what it says. Its a gas hob so just needs power for the auto ignition.

But, if it is rated at 3a, i guess as the load for the cooker is close to that, the hob will take it over 13a on an FCU.

Im pretty sure from recollection that it came new in the box with manufacturer saying "no plug inlcuded"

So, if it does require 3a fuse - what then?
 
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ARGGGHHHH!!! :mad:

you've been told over and over again how to do it..

6mm, 32A cooker feed..
put a cooker switch above the counter.
run 6mm to a double socket below the counter where you can get at it or leave it behind teh oven if you like.. I don't care at this point if you don't mind pulling the oven out if the fuse goes.
then plug in the hob and oven.. 13A fuse in the oven plug, 3A fuse in the hob plug..
JOB DONE!!!!..
 
OK OK OK - calm down Col!!! :LOL:

Hotpoint told me that they recommend or advise hardwiring even though the cooker is plug and play on 13a plug.

I agree that your double socket method BEHIND the cooker is the easiest way and then it doesnt matter if the hob needed a "beeping" 13a fuse on it! :LOL:

I was just trying to work out the best way to hardwire the two if thats what the manufacturer recommends.

Hey ho......
 
Ah - seperate hob!

Well if you're running two seperate appliances with different fuse requirements you've got no choice really. Stick the 45A ccu in (for your all important hypothetical future situation :) ) feeding a dual backbox behind the cooker. Stick two single sockets on that and plug the damn things in. You will not be pulling appliances out every week to replace fuses. In the future you can change either or both single sockets for cable/flex outlets as required.

Liam
 
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No no no! Let's keep it needlessly complex ;) ...

With some diversity applied you can probably run both the cooker and hob off that 13A fcu. So stick that above the worktop as before, feeding a dual backbox with one cooker outlet and one single socket for the hob to plug into (with a 3A fuse of course). That way you only have one fuse behind the cooker and can sleep better at night. When the time comes you can swap the fcu faceplate for a 45A switch and swap the outlets as necessary.

Done :)

Liam
 
Thanks Liam - nice and straightforward then eh? :LOL:

What i would like to do if possible is to install the 45a CCU so i dont have to change it at all in future - sounds like a good idea thinking about it!

I suppose my only concern was having something with a fused plug on it that was inaccessible and i didnt really want to put a double in an adjacent unit.

So, is there a way that i can hardwire the cooker and hob from the same CCU - surely it must be possible!
 
s7517180imageset01.jpg
 
But no can do, Col, as that has a socket behind the cooker or in a cupboard :) .

Steve, I think you either need to revise your concerns regarding fused plugs, or give less thought to hypothetical future situations!:) If the MI's say 13A fuse for the oven and 3A fuse for the hob you have to provide these fuses. The only way to do this avoiding plugs is to have two fcus above the worktop, one for each appliance. Then in the future you can swap one for a 45A switch and decommission the other - blank or remove and fill. Or, you could keep the spare fcu and end up with what I've installed - 45A switch for the cooker with adjacent fcu for the extractor hood.

Sh*t! Extractor hood! Hope i haven't thrown another spanner in the works :)

Liam
 
Liam

HOLY COW - I FORGOT ABOUT MY HOOD!!!!!!!! - nah, i think ive got that one covered....there is a double capable of a spur near the hob for that so i was going to spur off it for a FCU for the extractor and use manufacturers recommended fuse size for that.

BAN - love the dolls house cooker, top notch!

Looks like if i want to use the existing 6mm, im gonna have to use the old socket behind or in the cupboard trick.
 
It's not a dolls-house one, it's real...

It's aimed at people whose idea of camping is to drag along a truck-load of stuff so that they can build a working simulation of their house, but with fabric walls.
 
Looks like if i want to use the existing 6mm, im gonna have to use the old socket behind or in the cupboard trick.

Looks like it. But it's not all bad. I had to resort to a socket-in-an-adjacent-cupboard in my kitchen for a fridge. Dunno if it's a standard feature of all, or at least DIY shed, cabinet carcasses, but the back panels on mine stop about 6" short of the top. That means the socket can be positioned on the wall at slightly under worktop height and is accessable through the cupboard without cutting up the carcass. Also, this position means the socket is unlikely to be obscured by the contents of the cupboard unless it's rammed full to the top. Arguably better than an above-worktop mounted socket/isolation switch which ends up obscured by the microwave/breadbin/toaster/general clutter.

Liam
 
I have just checked the hob wiring instructions - load on the backplate says 0.6w however it does say in the manual that should be wired to a 3a plug (or i suppose a FCU with 3a in it)

Presuming this means that i cant hardwire it using a double outlet plate anyway as fuse size would be too big for the hob even if i used 16a at the CU right?

So, looks like they gotta go on there own lonesome's eh? or use that single socket/CCU setup

If i use the socket/CCU setup using 6mm via 45a switch, should i still use 16a RCBO ( im just checking)
If using a double socket to plug both in can i just leave the RCBO alone if its put in using 32a?

What dya reckon?
 

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