If the fuse goes, there is something wrong with the cooker, so it'll have to come out anyway.
Fuses don't just 'go' for the sake of it.
To hardwire or not to hardwire my oven?
- Thread starter Stevethetiler
- Start date
If the fuse goes, there is something wrong with the cooker, so it'll have to come out anyway.
Fuses don't just 'go' for the sake of it.
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Thats true enough! - i have spoken to Hotpoint who ake the oven and although it comes with a flex and plug fitted, they said they recommend hardwiring.
They also said that they know this means either replacing the original flex or cutting off the plug and said as long as its installed correctly, this will not invalidate my warranty.
So , with that in mind, am i gonna be better off doing it directly wired into a double exit CCU along with the cable for my gas hob controlled by a 13a FCU using 6mm all the way - seems the best way to me??
Or, just for the sake of keeping the plug on it - should i cut holes in the units simply to install a double socket to have somewhere to plug it in?
As far as i can tell, its as broad as it is long - but doing it as i thought just means my units stay in tact if you get my drift?
Comments welcomed.
They also said that they know this means either replacing the original flex or cutting off the plug and said as long as its installed correctly, this will not invalidate my warranty.
So , with that in mind, am i gonna be better off doing it directly wired into a double exit CCU along with the cable for my gas hob controlled by a 13a FCU using 6mm all the way - seems the best way to me??
Or, just for the sake of keeping the plug on it - should i cut holes in the units simply to install a double socket to have somewhere to plug it in?
As far as i can tell, its as broad as it is long - but doing it as i thought just means my units stay in tact if you get my drift?
Comments welcomed.
Use a cooker outlet plate, replace the MCB with a 16A.
BAS, is that in conjuction with using the 13a FCU? - im having a new CU put in shortly (see my other posts) following advice i have had here before.
I take it if the 6mm cooker run is on its own radial, i only need an RCBO to cope with my current proposed load - however would it do any harm using a larger one to avoid further expense in future assuming that the load wil be fused down to 13a at the FCU?
Basically, would it be ok with a larger MCB?
Im sure the guys who fit the CU will know what to do but i do like to get a feel of how things should be done for my own benefit - afterall, knowledge is a handy thing to have !
Comments welcome.
I take it if the 6mm cooker run is on its own radial, i only need an RCBO to cope with my current proposed load - however would it do any harm using a larger one to avoid further expense in future assuming that the load wil be fused down to 13a at the FCU?
Basically, would it be ok with a larger MCB?
Im sure the guys who fit the CU will know what to do but i do like to get a feel of how things should be done for my own benefit - afterall, knowledge is a handy thing to have !
Comments welcome.
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The point of using a smaller MCB/RCBO is to avoid having to faff about with an FCU.
It can always be replaced with a higher rated one in the future if needs be.
It can always be replaced with a higher rated one in the future if needs be.
Ahhh - right - i follow you now! 
Mind you, i actually dont mind having the FCU as it would allow me to isolate the cooker/hob without doing so at the CU - call me crazy but thats fine by me as it will allow me to install a deeper gang box ready for a 45a switch if i need it in future.
So, bearing that in mind, i take it i could still go with the 13a FCU at worktop height and let the guys install the cooker circuit on the CU with a larger breaker for future use with a higher rated cooker or hob?
Does that sound fairly logical?
Mind you, i actually dont mind having the FCU as it would allow me to isolate the cooker/hob without doing so at the CU - call me crazy but thats fine by me as it will allow me to install a deeper gang box ready for a 45a switch if i need it in future.
So, bearing that in mind, i take it i could still go with the 13a FCU at worktop height and let the guys install the cooker circuit on the CU with a larger breaker for future use with a higher rated cooker or hob?
Does that sound fairly logical?
Why not follow the conventional route of using a cooker control unit to provide your isolation facility?
It just seems so simple and flexible to me - the usual sort of cooker circuit - 6/10mm² to a CCU to a cooker outlet plate with the oven hardwired to that, but a 16A device in the CU....
It just seems so simple and flexible to me - the usual sort of cooker circuit - 6/10mm² to a CCU to a cooker outlet plate with the oven hardwired to that, but a 16A device in the CU....
Ban, i hope im understanding you right......
Use a 45a CCU at worktop (installing this initially will avoid future hassle swapping FCU in future)
Wire my 2800 rated cooker and gas hob into double outlet plate behind the cooker using 6mm for the load to the 45a CCU.
Fuse it down at the CU by using a lower 16a breaker
Result being i can still isolate at the worktop and not have to faff with changing an FCU to a CCU in future.
If i DO get a higher rated appliance in the future, then all i need do is upgrade the RCBO for a larger one, say 32a?
Is that right?
Use a 45a CCU at worktop (installing this initially will avoid future hassle swapping FCU in future)
Wire my 2800 rated cooker and gas hob into double outlet plate behind the cooker using 6mm for the load to the 45a CCU.
Fuse it down at the CU by using a lower 16a breaker
Result being i can still isolate at the worktop and not have to faff with changing an FCU to a CCU in future.
If i DO get a higher rated appliance in the future, then all i need do is upgrade the RCBO for a larger one, say 32a?
Is that right?
Yup.
Or, leave the circuit on a 32A RCBO at the CU, and install a 13A socket in place of the cooker outlet plate.
Then if a big cooker was installed in future, all that needs to be done is swap the socket for an outlet plate.
Simples.
Then if a big cooker was installed in future, all that needs to be done is swap the socket for an outlet plate.
Simples.
Sounds to me like my best bet is to do what you have said BAN, that way i dont have to butcher my lovely new base units.
I know that the double socket method would mean i dont have to cut plugs off etc but it does mean that, should i want to hardwire into a CCU in future for a higher power oven/hob , i have to remove the double and leave holes in the base cupboards.
If i have understood BAN's method correctly, the wiring should be "as it would be" for a higher rated oven with the only difference being that its fused down at the CU by a 16a RCBO. Hardwire the cooker into an outlet plate behind it, use 6mm to connect to the 45a CCU above worktop and hey presto???? - that way i dont have to butcher the units and if i want a more powerful device in future then all i do is upgrade the RCBO to cope with the new load.
Is that right ?
I know that the double socket method would mean i dont have to cut plugs off etc but it does mean that, should i want to hardwire into a CCU in future for a higher power oven/hob , i have to remove the double and leave holes in the base cupboards.
If i have understood BAN's method correctly, the wiring should be "as it would be" for a higher rated oven with the only difference being that its fused down at the CU by a 16a RCBO. Hardwire the cooker into an outlet plate behind it, use 6mm to connect to the 45a CCU above worktop and hey presto???? - that way i dont have to butcher the units and if i want a more powerful device in future then all i do is upgrade the RCBO to cope with the new load.
Is that right ?
Yup.
Always assuming that the hob instructions don't say that you have to use a 3A fuse....
Always assuming that the hob instructions don't say that you have to use a 3A fuse....
Personally I still think your original/my suggestion is most ideal . It's swings and roundabouts, though really. In the future you either swap an fcu faceplate for a 45a switch faceplate, or change an RCBO. Myself, I'd go for having to swap the faceplate rather than having to switch off all the power at the main switch and delving into the CU to swap an RCBO. Much easier job, and in the meantime you're fused down to the manufacturers intended 13A, for what it's worth. Also, swapping an RCBO for one with a different rating in the future is very much notifiable work. Swapping the faceplate... well... the fcu could be damaged... or... maybe it always was a 45A switch ...
Liam
. It's swings and roundabouts, though really. In the future you either swap an fcu faceplate for a 45a switch faceplate, or change an RCBO. Myself, I'd go for having to swap the faceplate rather than having to switch off all the power at the main switch and delving into the CU to swap an RCBO. Much easier job, and in the meantime you're fused down to the manufacturers intended 13A, for what it's worth. Also, swapping an RCBO for one with a different rating in the future is very much notifiable work. Swapping the faceplate... well... the fcu could be damaged... or... maybe it always was a 45A switch ...Liam
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