I tried take from the switch wasn't any neutral there only live, so it is out. now I am going to get (L) (N) (E) from a socket via a fused spur unit, with a 3 amp fuse in it
Toilet Under stairs no light
- Thread starter marcaobr
- Start date
I tried take from the switch wasn't any neutral there only live, so it is out. now I am going to get (L) (N) (E) from a socket via a fused spur unit, with a 3 amp fuse in it
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I have to agree with u it looks messy alright, but was done in the very same way before and worked just fine, the only thing I can not get the supply from the same place I had before, doing to a house renovation I had to change things around but I am getting there, thanks for the comment any way
Have a go at re-doing the junction box in the last photo.
The grey sheath must enter the box.
The coloured cores need to be about two inches long. Arrange the wires neatly, without shortening them. Taking the wire the 'long way round' to the terminal will in some cases make a neat job. Use earth sleeving on the bare earth wires.
We'll make you try and do a better job yet!
You really need a 20 amp 6 terminal junction box. Possibly the cores may need to be very slightly longer.
The grey sheath must enter the box.
The coloured cores need to be about two inches long. Arrange the wires neatly, without shortening them. Taking the wire the 'long way round' to the terminal will in some cases make a neat job. Use earth sleeving on the bare earth wires.
We'll make you try and do a better job yet!
You really need a 20 amp 6 terminal junction box. Possibly the cores may need to be very slightly longer.
Might not always need them both.If not then one hopesthe incumbent has the decency to switch both on.
Perhaps this would be a good switch for the fan?
looks great, good idea
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really appreciate your help, I'll do what you suggested, I'll post a picture tomorrow when I get it done, thanks again for the help.
how you are doing? I redone the job looks a bit better now, I've connected the light she is working fine, I was thinking to do the same job for the extractor fan, worked before, I am not quite sure if it is ok to do this way.
I bought a extractor fan switch but I wasn't quite sure how to work with it.
hi, how are the things? I couldn't find the one you posted, I bought a extractor fan switch but I couldn't figure out how to work with it.Might not always need them both.If not then one hopes
Perhaps this would be a good switch for the fan?
looks great, good idea
It was meant to be a joke - fan switch with 2 positions, labelled #1 and #2.
It goes in the supply to the fan to allow you to isolate it for maintenance or override it if you don't want it on.
TBH, if it isn't obvious to you then you should not be doing electrical work.
On the basis that you said you have a standard fan (non timer) then your outgoing extractor cable at the jb Switch Live, Neutral and Earth will go to the supply side of the three pole isolator - except you only need to use the L1 and Neutral (you only need L2 if your fan had a timer).
You then run T&E from the load side's L1 and N to your fans equivalent L and N.
Make sure you sleeve and connect the incoming and outgoing earths at the isolator using a terminal block.
Your fan will probably not need an earth so at the fan put the sleeved earth wire in another terminal block.
At your 'tidied up' jb make sure you put brown tape around the incoming Switch live (blue cable) and at the switch - this will highlight to others that this is not a neutral but a switch live.
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