Tool questions

Who the hell puts door linings in with round head nails? Actually, they look a bit like Paslode nails (which would make them 2.8 to 3.3mm shank diameter), so "Yee, ha!", pardner

A large nail set and a 16oz or 20oz hammer will normally punch medium sized oval nails under - because they are actually designed to be sunk under, as are lost head rounds and even panel pins

French nails (i.e. round shank nails with a large flat head, like those in your photo) aren't designed to be sunk under at all. That head is meant to stay at the surface and improve the pull out resistance of the nail. Which is why they are often used for framing (which won"t be seen), fencing and shed construction (where it generally doesn't matter if they are seen), etc. Unless you are a complete bodge merchant or an utter cowboy, you don't use them in finished work

If you do succeed in punching those heads under you will run the risk of splitting the wood. But if you insist on trying, I'd suggest an appropriately sized tapered drift (an engineer's tool) and a big hammer. Don't drive them more than a few millimetres under and fill with 2-pack afterwards. Just don't blame me if it all goes pear shaped!
 
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Who the hell puts door linings in with round head nails? Actually, they look a bit like Paslode nails (which would make them 2.8 to 3.3mm shank diameter), so "Yee, ha!", pardner

A large nail set and a 16oz or 20oz hammer will normally punch medium sized oval nails under - because they are actually designed to be sunk under, as are lost head rounds and even panel pins

French nails (i.e. round shank nails with a large flat head, like those in your photo) aren't designed to be sunk under at all. That head is meant to stay at the surface and improve the pull out resistance of the nail. Which is why they are often used for framing (which won"t be seen), fencing and shed construction (where it generally doesn't matter if they are seen), etc. Unless you are a complete bodge merchant or an utter cowboy, you don't use them in finished work

If you do succeed in punching those heads under you will run the risk of splitting the wood. But if you insist on trying, I'd suggest an appropriately sized tapered drift (an engineer's tool) and a big hammer. Don't drive them more than a few millimetres under and fill with 2-pack afterwards. Just don't blame me if it all goes pear shaped!


How about taking them out then hammering in thinner headed nails and punching below surface? Is there any reason structurally they were used or was the chippie just an idiòt?
 
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Who the hell puts door linings in with round head nails

I'm not sure why anybody would use nails at all these days - screwing a door liner allows wedge packers to be used and get the door liner jambs nice and straight, parallel and not twisted.

I feel sorry for the person that had to fit the door
 
I like the way they have been randomly battered in, so boring spacing them at regular intervals.

How about taking them out then hammering in thinner headed nails and punching below surface? Is there any reason structurally they were used or was the chippie just an idiòt?
they arnt coming back out without serios damage to the wood. Could get to them from the other side and hammer them back out - ask your neighbour if you could burrow a small hole in their wall.
 
How about taking them out then hammering in thinner headed nails and punching below surface?
OK, so assuming this is a softwood lining there are several approaches you could take. I'd suggest drilling and counter sinking near the screws then screwing the lining in place with the screw heads well sunk.under. Obviously if the lining is in masonry you'll need to SDS and plug the hole as well

One approach I have used was to chisel away the timber around the nail head forming a depression in which your nippers or cat's paw/small nail bar can work in to pull the nail out. Use a small piece of plywood as a pivot point rather than prying out directly against the door lining - this will also reduce any bruising of the lining.

Another approach is to obliquely slice the offending nail heads off just below the surface using a Dremel fitted with a thin grinding disk. You need to cut both metal and timber at the same time. This is a smelly smokey business which can scorch the door locally. Once the nail heads are off chisel out any blackened timber before 2-pack filling the resulting holes and power sanding

Is there any reason structurally they were used or was the chippie just an idiòt?
Munroist had it right

Edit: Just to inform the OP: In case you weren't aware it is not considered acceptable practice to nail door linings in the UK any longer (and certainly for at least 60 years based on C&G texts I've seen from the 1960s). Over here we counterbore, screw and plug (hardwoods) or counterbore, screw and fill (softwoods) in the main
 
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Whoever did it was an idiot, not a chippie

I assume the chippie put the silicone on too. It's smeared onto the walls and the paint won't adhere
 
I would never have thought of siliconing a door surround in place - astonishing idea.
 

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