With such a small mitre i would think glue and screw would work or you could fix a 50mm X 50mm "L" shaped bracket to the newel and align it to fit just under the handrail and rebate it in so it doesn't foul the spindle and can be covered by the underfillet between the 1st spindle and the newel post.
Top newel post installation
- Thread starter swilli88
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- newel newel stairs stairs
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@DAZB when attaching the handrail to the newel posts do you recommend any of those zipbolt fasteners or are they just the favoured option if you don't want any holes to fill in the post?
Is it perfectly strong enough to wood glue the face and put one screw through into the handrail?
I'm painting the whole hadnrail so filing and smoothing holes isn't a big deal on the finish.
the way this guy does is....
Is it perfectly strong enough to wood glue the face and put one screw through into the handrail?
I'm painting the whole hadnrail so filing and smoothing holes isn't a big deal on the finish.
the way this guy does is....
The zipbolt and other similar fasteners are widespread nowadays but before they came along it was the standard glue and screw so, yes, it would be more than adequate to do so in my opinion as the spindles and the top newel give it bracing and structural integrity too.
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@DAZB how would you go about this notch? The second image is a section that shows the angle bit inside to home the stringer. I wanted to avoid making the stringer section rectangle cause it took meat off and leaving it rectangular right through the newel would have a big section of stringer at the newel face rather than it 'disappear'...if you get what i mean
reminder of what im dealing with is last image
reminder of what im dealing with is last image
I see what you mean! Basically make it into a small square dowel!
How would you approach creating this fairly complicated notch? I should probably at least get a sharp set of chisels
Just read this again, the figure 2 there is a section through figure 1, just to show the slot inside.
As I am drawing out the notch here I realise it will be near impossible to get the angle recess to house the stringer Becuase of the notch shafts either side. Just can’t get at it! Any ideas?
I might just need to flush cut the stringer with floor board and forget about it as extra support. I will have fixings to the stringer and floor just still
May be easier cutting the peak off and doing a simpler tenon style housing and putting it together with plenty of PU adhesive in the void where the peak was and it will be as strong as the timber and added to the other fixings you can get in you will not have much issue with movement.
could be an optical illusion but assuming the string is around 38mm[1 1/2"] the gap looks a bit more than 94x94mm ??
the important thing is maximum contact with the string so it can be as one with the string by default with any padding out and support boosting the now solid string and newel set up
once you remove timber above floor level it restricts the amount off support you can import as in iff you have 70mm on the string above floor level you will get far more than 50% extra support over say 45mm proud
now off course any fixings below floor lever will help vastly so iff floors and celings are being opened up for further access for fixings please ignore my rantings
the important thing is maximum contact with the string so it can be as one with the string by default with any padding out and support boosting the now solid string and newel set up
once you remove timber above floor level it restricts the amount off support you can import as in iff you have 70mm on the string above floor level you will get far more than 50% extra support over say 45mm proud
now off course any fixings below floor lever will help vastly so iff floors and celings are being opened up for further access for fixings please ignore my rantings
Thanks @big-all for your suggestions.could be an optical illusion but assuming the string is around 38mm[1 1/2"] the gap looks a bit more than 94x94mm ??
the important thing is maximum contact with the string so it can be as one with the string by default with any padding out and support boosting the now solid string and newel set up
once you remove timber above floor level it restricts the amount off support you can import as in iff you have 70mm on the string above floor level you will get far more than 50% extra support over say 45mm proud
now off course any fixings below floor lever will help vastly so iff floors and celings are being opened up for further access for fixings please ignore my rantings
I didnt see this until this morning but I did pull up a section of floor and add multiple fixings through a floor joist and the stringer, plus glue, plus and block I added between joists to butt up against the back of the newel post for even more support with another fixing through it. Probably went a little OTT but that newel post is going nowhere in a hurry! thanks for the tips!
Heres the landing I completed yesterday. First attempt as a DIYer at stair components. Quite a satisfying end result when, after all the turmoil and thinking, you have a lovely level, plumb and sturdy result!
@DAZB FYI progress
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ha thanks. Ye i was chuffed last night. Still have the main rail to do!excellent job bet your please
you and dazb deserve all the praise as you both did all the work
yes a lot of credit to @DAZB for helping me out in my planning phase! thanks again
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