trusting your meter

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Location
London
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Block of flats 25 is years old
3036 CU

Kitchen ring (30A) not continuous on L - N - E . So a disconnection somewhere

Eventually find a wallpaper covered single back box with the ring disconnected.

This outlet was about 10 cm from the ceiling on the opposite side of the kitchen from the cooker and hob, so I have no idea why a socket would be where it was.
Would be interested in why it was put there? but thats not my question.

This enclosure had the two legs of the ring and when tested proved continuous with good readings. Ohms as expected and >299 for IR.

So I have a ring final circuit with a 30A 3036 fuse and it is split.

I don't know why the ring was split, but small repair marks in the wall, high above sockets (Cables come down) could point to somebody once drilling through a cable hanging a picture!
I don't know though.

So..

Reconnecting the ring would make the fusing correct

Meter readings suggest cable is OK

Would you reconnect the ring?

I have put screws through T&E and tested a dead short then remove the screw and all is well.

Fusing down is an answer but not ideal, and all appliances are on the one leg.

So if you find a broken ring separated on purpose (Very amateur, no connector blocks just tape, then papered over!)
And it test OK would you re connect?

I did not and fused down, but would like your thoughts
 
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if the two legs were still in the fuse, and all thats missing is an accesory front then
What leads you to think sopmeone would do that due to a fault.

If there is evidence of past damage in the wall then from what you say it was still connected to the fuse anyway.
For what reason was you there testing it anyway to discover what you found

Clearing a fault temporary on a ring would involve removing an accesory AND disconnecting one leg of a ring

Replace the accesory, meggar the ring, continuity test each leg and test as a ring
 
More likely someone who didn't know what they were doing just removed an accessory and found it 'didn't make any difference' so left it.

If there were a fault - screw hole, whatever - it wouldn't matter if the ring was connected or not, would it?
 
Yes.

I don't have two disconnections to isolate a section, I just have a split.

I am wondering why this was done, and just guessing at a reason.

However both legs test OK so reconnecting the ring would be the correct thing to do. Would it?
 
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stop testing as two legs, reconnect and test properly AS a ring.

Why it was done is irelovant and not your concern.
At the end of the day it was done and had an overated fuse and needed improvement.
 
If it was close to the ceiling in a kitchen, I would guess it was a clock outlet that was no longer needed and as been said it was disconnected by someone who didn't know what they where doing.
 
stop testing as two legs, reconnect and test properly AS a ring.
He was testing as a ring.

Why it was done is irelovant and not your concern.
He was curious after finding the break in the ring in a back-box under wallpaper.

At the end of the day it was done and had an overated fuse and needed improvement.
Which he discovered and rectified.

I'd say he has done very well.
 
you can test a ring at any point.
I am testing at the disconnection.
The question is.... if it test OK would you reconnect?
 

This enclosure had the two legs of the ring and when tested proved continuous with good readings. Ohms as expected and >299 for IR.
Then later
However both legs test OK so reconnecting the ring would be the correct thing to do. Would it?
What do you call the pairs of conductors when separated at an accessory?
 

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