Upgrading Danfoss TP9000 with remote sensor TS2 & TP5000 to Smart Drayton Wiser Kit 3

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Hello fellow users,

I have a wired non-smart Danfoss thermostats system that I am trying to replace with Drayton Wiser 3 kit but running into some issues where I would like your knowledge and expertise.

The current system is:
  • TP9000 controlling ground floor heating and overall Water of the property. This is in the kitchen next to the boiler. The controller is also connected to a remote sensor TS2 which is in the living room. This I believe is via wired connection going to port 5 & 6 of the old back plate.
  • Battery operated TP5000 (but with live voltage going to the back plate) on the top floor controlling heating of the top & middle floors rads (3 storey house).
  • The top floor also have Megaflo unvented water cylinder and next to it is the 'badly done' wiring central.

All pictures shown below.


The new setup:
  • Because the TP9000 back plate was different from Wiser kit 3 back plate, I had to replace it with the new plate provided.
  • I connected L & N as normal. Connection 3 (DHW ON) from old plate to HW2 ON on wiser plate. And connection 4 (HTG ON) to CH1 ON on new plate. As connection 5 & 6 were for remote sensor TS2, I ended these in the new system and did not connect anywhere in the new wiser plate.
  • Currently nothing connected to CH3 ON port on the new plate.
  • I then fired ON the new system, registered new account and assigned the two smart thermostats (one to CH1 (ground floor) & other stat to CH3 (assuming top floor stat). Straight away the ground floor heating was properly working. I can hear the relay click everytime I called for heat or reduced the temp.
  • Now doing the same on the second smart stat (assigned as CH3 in the App), passed the relay to the wiser hub but the boiler didn't fire up and didn't do anything to the top floor rads.

My main queries are:

  1. As it stands I have not removed the old TP5000 or done anything on the wiring central. The brown wire in the back plate does have live voltage. What steps I need to take to disconnect it? I think I need to do something in the wiring central to stop sending signal to the TP5000. I even worked out which terminals are going to T5000 COM & N/O3 terminals (shown in the picture). Is it that I need to disconnect these and loop them in the wiring central?
  2. Also realised the call for hot water is not auto-activating once the hot stored water ran out from the storage. It is working when manually turned On on the app or by pressing the hot water on the wiser hub but not auto working. Now fixed - turned out I needed to keep the hot water option ON in the app which will fire the boiler as and when needed.
  3. I understand without any wire going into the CH3 on the new back plate, the second heating zone is not enabled. What wire I need to map from the TP9000 back plate? There were multiple blue & browns in the L & N in old plate. Is it that one of those need to be in CH3?

I sense I am half way there and only missing couple of key connections. Any help to troubleshoot will be highly appreciated and I hope this detailed thread will help future brave DIY'ers.



Pic 1 - TP9000 mapping
TP9000 Mapping.JPG


Pic 2 - TP9000 original
TP9000 BP.jpeg


Pic 3 - TP9000
TP9000.jpeg



Pic 4 - TS2 mapping
TS2.jpeg



Pic 5 - TP5000
TP5000.jpeg




Pic 6 - TP5000 mapping (brown live)
TP5000 BP.jpeg





Pic 7 - Wiring Central
wiring central.jpeg


Pic 8 - Megaflo Cylinder
megaflo.jpeg



Thanks
Mihir
 

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First one, why have you connected the DHW line to CH1 and the downstairs heating line to DHW? Not sure how the heating is responding to the smart stat under those circs unless you don't have independent control of hot water (there should be 3 2 port valves, I can only see 2 in your pic).


Upstairs heating.
There are no control lines for the upstairs heating at the TP9000 position. The lines for upstairs appear at the wiring centre only (well done on the homework).
If you're lucky, the brown and blue going from the TP9000 to the remote sensor go through the wiring centre- you need to investigate that. If you're not lucky then you need to ID the wires running to the TP9000 in the wiring centre and relocate the Wiser hub to near the wiring centre

Using your multimeter, check those 2 wires in Pic 7 (the TP5000 N/O and COM). With upstairs heating not working, one will be at 240v (probably but not definitely the brown), the other will be at 0v. The one at 0v needs to connect to the CH3 terminal on the Wiser. Hopefully via the (now redundant) lines from the TPS2.

Hot water- according to your post, dhw is being controlled by CH1 so no surprise it isn't working properly
 
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Sorry my bad, I wrote the hot water channel no. wrong in the post earlier, even though I have done it correctly. I have updated the post now. Turns out I needed to keep the hot water option ON in the app which will fire the boiler as and when needed. It was OFF earlier. Hoping this fixes the hot water issue.

As you mentioned, I should have 3 two ports valves but I only have two in the cylinder picture. I am now concerned that maybe I didn't buy the correct wiser kit. Maybe I needed wiser kit 2 instead. Will check on this.....

I will try the remaining steps in the wiring central tomorrow.

Thanks
M
 
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A Wiser kit 3 will work for 2 Zone heating.
You just ignore the extra channel in the App.
Plus you now have an extra digital stat which is handy and can be used elsewhere.
 
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Odd- sure I replied to this yesterday. Question- with your current setup, can you have the upstairs heating on without downstairs heating and cylinder? If yes then there is probably another 2 port valve stashed somewhere- the microswitch from that valve has to connect to the boiler somewhere so maybe start at that 'wiring centre'? If no then you can achieve the effect with a (fairly chunky tbh) investment in wifi radiator valves- they'll give you all the zones you want.
 
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