USB plug socket plates retrofit

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Hi,

Sorry if this is a really basic question, but not an electrician and not looking to blow my house or myself up. I have some existing 2 gang wall sockets I was looking at replacing a few in sensible areas with 2 gang + USB. Am I right in thinking that providing I have a Live, Neutral and Ground (which I do on the existing ones, these could be swapped out as a retrofit without any issues?

I will take pictures and note which are which in the current socket beforehand to ensure they are correct on a new socket, or if I need to revert back. Although on the new socket, I know to look for the L N and G markings for which as I know they might not always be the same.

Example: https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-logic...et-2a-2-outlet-type-a-usb-charger-white/5541x

My sockets are on a specific circuit on the fuse box, I would obviously switch off power to them when removing and replacing.

However, have I missed anything painfully obvious that would need an electrician or to consider before replacing?

Thanks

James
 
Last edited:
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Yes, no problem.

L, N & E (or symbol
upload_2021-8-30_15-10-58.png
) - we call it Earth.
 
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Thank you, good information there. Based on reading that thread the other considerations are the backbox depth (which I'll double check) and USB spec, fast charging is a good point, the past few Samsung phones I've had all have fast charging, but not necessarily a deal breaker on a USB socket, but I'll definitely look out for that. My main goal is just have a few direct USB sockets in places, rather than taking up a whole socket.
 
Check the depth of the actual product, rather than them being suggested as 'suitable for 25mm backbox'

because in many cases that really means

'suitable for 25mm backbox which is 100% perfectly level in the wall with only a single set of stranded 2.5mm² wires which enter horizontally from the lower right corner of the box and are actually long enough to reach the terminals we placed awkwardly all over the back of the product in seemingly random locations.'
 
Check the depth of the actual product, rather than them being suggested as 'suitable for 25mm backbox'

because in many cases that really means

'suitable for 25mm backbox which is 100% perfectly level in the wall with only a single set of stranded 2.5mm² wires which enter horizontally from the lower right corner of the box and are actually long enough to reach the terminals we placed awkwardly all over the back of the product in seemingly random locations.'

Thanks, I've just measured the backbox of one of the 2 gang sockets I'd be looking to replace and it's 35mm, but I've seen a few threads saying to ignore screwfix and check the depth to confirm, which I'll double check!
 
Yes, esp. with the MK brand, I would use at least 35mm boxes.

Plus, some people with excellent hearing say some USB sockets emit a high frequency whine.
 
Yes, esp. with the MK brand, I would use at least 35mm boxes.

Plus, some people with excellent hearing say some USB sockets emit a high frequency whine.

I was looking at some MK sockets, looks like a good brand with solid reviews, Screwfix says 25mm but as you've mentioned some reviews say 25mm backbox is a tight fit so 35mm would be fine by the sounds of it.

Is that HF noise a form of what I know to be coil whine? I'm aware of this with computer hardware components like GPUs when underload and some badly designed logic boards.
 
I've had two MK USB sockets go T*ts up and the USB power stop working. LAP may be a "cheaper" brand but the one I fitted a number of years ago is still going strong.
 
I fitted two MKs in a new property onto 25mm boxes had to dress the cables a little but went on ok
 

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