What Don't I know About Conusmer Unit Upgrades

If you look carefully it is connected and wedged in at the sides, just from the front you can see the whole cable through the gap in the clamp
It does not look as if it is reliably connected.


... what is connecting the sheaths of the two cables (I presume they are not relying on the consumer to do that via their earth block!)
They might be.

They do in my house.
 
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That cutout looks a bit odd, can anyone tell if the neutral is fused from that? Either way if I were the op I'd be emailing the photo to the dno and asking for some updates.
Inside those cutouts is a fusible link on the line side and a solid link on the neutral side.
 
Is the kitchen downstairs, with the sockets you want to move on the MCB labelled "Down" which is your only RCD protected circuit? If the answer is yes spark 3 is correct. It's is not his job to water your peas, but he does seem to be the only one not trying to get unnecessary work.

Yes, the kitchen is on the "Down" MCB, I'm not sure if it is RCD protected or not, how would I find out?
 
Well, it obviously is - as obvious as anything can be - but -

switch off the RCD and see if anything plugged in works -

press the button and see if that works; you are supposed to do it every three months, anyway.
 
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You'll have to bear with me RCD, MCB's etc aren't familiar terms.

Can I assume the that the RCD is the left most switch labeled "on/off" with the small white button labelled "Test" beside it?

"press the button and see if that works" What result will this action produce if it does work?
 
Yes, that's the one on the left.

Press the button. That should cause it to switch off.

If it doesn't then it will need replacing - so a new CU may be required after all.
In that case you can use its switch to turn it off to see if the sockets lose the power.

If the button does switch it off, and the sockets lose power, then all is well.
 
Yes, that's the one on the left.

Press the button........

Pressing the button does not cause the power to shut off, only setting the switch to off has this effect. So, it looks like the a new CU will be needed.

Do you have any advice on the what would make a decent upgrade spec/model?

Also, what are the reporting requirements to building control for this type of work?

How reasonable is the £480 quoted by spark 1, (south west) for the CU supply and fit, no mention of testing, reporting or the spec/model of the upgrade.
 
I have seen wylex RCDs of that vintage where pressing the test button does nothing, however it still trips on an RCD tester. Its obviously not an ideal situation but its preffable to the whole rcd being in/opp
 

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