wheel barely spins, Droning noise, hot caliper , what is the problem here ?

[Rightboy91]

With the wheel off, use a broad blade screwdriver to lever the pads away from the disc, just a small amount will do.
I generally get a screwdriver in between the piston and the pad backing and lever away!
John

Ah right, ok.
So the pads are actually trouching the disc already, are they supposed to be or only if there is a problem with them the pads will touch the disc ??

Once I do that do I spin the wheel and see if it rotates freely ? thanks

edit : I found the reason to the power loss after replacing the drive belt + tensioner, the cause was the turbo boost pipe had disconnected, I had driven alomst 2,000 miles without the boost pipe for the turbo connected

 

[Rightboy91]

that sounds very odd. It will melt, drip and burn away. You normally use a heat-resistant compound on brakes.

I don't do my own any more, but it used to be Copaslip, more recently ceramic grease

Vaseline also causes rubber to perish, e.g. on seals, dustcaps, condoms. There is a special red grease for rubber, made from vegetable oil.

Hi !
Will vaseline melt/drip/burn off the caliper slider bolts, do they got hot enoguh ?? will copper grease be okay ?

thanks

 

[JohnD]

Copper grease is no longer used. Get some ceramic brake grease. a small tube is inexpensive (larger tubs are available)

Brake parts can get very hot. Hot enough to burn your hand. If your problem is a wheel bearing, they can get hot enough to set the grease on fire (this once happened to me).

 

[Rightboy91]

Copper grease is no longer used. Get some ceramic brake grease. a small tube is inexpensive (larger tubs are available)

Hi
Is copper grease no good ? I have plenty of it here. If not I will try what you suggested, thanks

 

[JohnD]

Hi
Is copper grease no good ? I have plenty of it here. If not I will try what you suggested, thanks

Copper grease is no longer used on brakes. I don't know what brought about the change. I used to use it a lot and still have plenty.

You can still use copper grease on e.g. hot exhaust parts and steel that may get wet. it is not suitable for aluminium or stainless, which I now have.

 

[Rightboy91]

Copper grease is no longer used on brakes. I don't know what brought about the change. I used to use it a lot and still have plenty.

You can still use copper grease on e.g. hot exhaust parts and steel that may get wet. it is not suitable for aluminium or stainless, which I now have.

okay, thank you I appreciete it.

Do you have any thoughts on what the problem with ym car might be, thanks

 

[Burnerman]

Brake pads are meant to be in slight contact with the disc. However, just a slight too much contact causes a squeal. In a system thats working well, the seal between the caliper piston and the caliper is square in section. When you press the brake pedal, the seal distorts a fraction but still prevents fluid loss. When you release the brake pedal, the seal assumes its undeformed shape and pulls the piston back just a fraction, releasing the pad from the disc. Very clever!
Don’t use any compound that is likely to rot rubber. Although synthetic rubber compounds are used these days, a ceramic lubricant is always recommended.
John

 

[JohnD]

okay, thank you I appreciete it.

Do you have any thoughts on what the problem with ym car might be, thanks

Burnerman and Mottie do it for a living and have a better view.

As a DIYer I would have started with the piston jamming, but I'd have to exchange or take them apart to clean, overhaul and lube, and I wouldn't bother now. I'd go to my mender. Caliper bolts are fairly large, and very tight, and hard to work on with a small toolkit.

 

[Mottie]

I found the reason to the power loss after replacing the drive belt + tensioner, the cause was the turbo boost pipe had disconnected.

Well, I don’t want to say I told you so, but.......

I wonder if you’ve jacked it up so high that one of the intercooler pipes has disconnected?

 

[Rightboy91]

Brake pads are meant to be in slight contact with the disc. However, just a slight too much contact causes a squeal. In a system thats working well, the seal between the caliper piston and the caliper is square in section. When you press the brake pedal, the seal distorts a fraction but still prevents fluid loss. When you release the brake pedal, the seal assumes its undeformed shape and pulls the piston back just a fraction, releasing the pad from the disc. Very clever!
Don’t use any compound that is likely to rot rubber. Although synthetic rubber compounds are used these days, a ceramic lubricant is always recommended.
John

hi
So shall I get a screwdriver and try to pry the pads away from the disc a little bit , then see if the wheel will spin freely ?
Would it be a good idea to wind the brake caliper piston in several times in case it is seized to help it free up ?
thank you for the explanation on the workings of the brake calipers , interesting.

 

[Rightboy91]

Well, I don’t want to say I told you so, but.......

Hi
I was wondering the other day about what you said, I didn't realise the intercooler pipe was the smae thing as the boost pipe. for some reason I thoguht you meant a big hose such as the ones that connect to the throttle body or air box.

thank you once again ! very knowledgeable

edit : also I replaced the throttle body and the thud/jerk on engine shut down has now gone away after 2 years (40,000 ) miles of investigating, I' am so pleased but I don't understand why every mechnaic was either saying it was flywheel related or they did not know where it was coimng from, only after seeing a guy on youtube who mentioed throttle body and i then got a replacement it is finally resolved !

 

[Rightboy91]

Brake pads are meant to be in slight contact with the disc. However, just a slight too much contact causes a squeal. In a system thats working well, the seal between the caliper piston and the caliper is square in section. When you press the brake pedal, the seal distorts a fraction but still prevents fluid loss. When you release the brake pedal, the seal assumes its undeformed shape and pulls the piston back just a fraction, releasing the pad from the disc. Very clever!
Don’t use any compound that is likely to rot rubber. Although synthetic rubber compounds are used these days, a ceramic lubricant is always recommended.
John

Hey John.

I took out the brake pads and put the caliper back on so I could spin the wheel but it is just the same, the wheel doesn't spin it only moves a few inches each way. I did drive for about half hour and this time the caliper remained cool.
Is it safe to say the caliper is not the culprit in this situation ?

The droning noise is still present as is the side-side wheel movement.

(I also noticed the brake pads were worn quite a lot at the bottom and top , the middle was fine but the top and bottom of the pads look as though they'd been filed down a few cm . could this be because I fitted them onto the old brake discs that are old and scored , didn't change pads at the bolts were rounded and thought I'd wait until MOT and get a rounded off bolt tool and do the discs too. the brake pads are 3,000 miles old.

 

[Rightboy91]

Well, I don’t want to say I told you so, but.......

Hey Mottie

I took out the brake pads and put the caliper back on so I could spin the wheel but it is just the same, the wheel doesn't spin it only moves a few inches each way. I did drive for about half hour and this time the caliper remained cool.
Is it safe to say the caliper is not the culprit in this situation ?

The droning noise is still present as is the side-side wheel movement.

(I also noticed the brake pads were worn quite a lot at the bottom and top , the middle was fine but the top and bottom of the pads look as though they'd been filed down a few cm . could this be because I fitted them onto the old brake discs that are old and scored , didn't change pads at the bolts were rounded and thought I'd wait until MOT and get a rounded off bolt tool and do the discs too. the brake pads are 3,000 miles old.

 

[Rightboy91]

Burnerman and Mottie do it for a living and have a better view.

As a DIYer I would have started with the piston jamming, but I'd have to exchange or take them apart to clean, overhaul and lube, and I wouldn't bother now. I'd go to my mender. Caliper bolts are fairly large, and very tight, and hard to work on with a small toolkit.

Hey John.

I took out the brake pads and put the caliper back on so I could spin the wheel but it is just the same, the wheel doesn't spin it only moves a few inches each way. I did drive for about half hour and this time the caliper remained cool.
Is it safe to say the caliper is not the culprit in this situation ?

The droning noise is still present as is the side-side wheel movement.

(I also noticed the brake pads were worn quite a lot at the bottom and top , the middle was fine but the top and bottom of the pads look as though they'd been filed down a few cm . could this be because I fitted them onto the old brake discs that are old and scored , didn't change pads at the bolts were rounded and thought I'd wait until MOT and get a rounded off bolt tool and do the discs too. the brake pads are 3,000 miles old.

Read more: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/...-the-problem-here.545717/page-2#ixzz6NS0xCoE6

Your brake caliper is seized. The heat generated by this has caused the grease to melt away and the bearing failed.

It could just be the collapsed wheel bearing and the excessive play is causing the disc to rub against the brake pad.

Either way, it's a wheel bearing and a set of pads and discs and a caliper

Hey SX turbo

I took out the brake pads and put the caliper back on so I could spin the wheel but it is just the same, the wheel doesn't spin it only moves a few inches each way. I did drive for about half hour and this time the caliper remained cool.
Is it safe to say the caliper is not the culprit in this situation ?

The droning noise is still present as is the side-side wheel movement.

(I also noticed the brake pads were worn quite a lot at the bottom and top , the middle was fine but the top and bottom of the pads look as though they'd been filed down a few cm . could this be because I fitted them onto the old brake discs that are old and scored , didn't change pads at the bolts were rounded and thought I'd wait until MOT and get a rounded off bolt tool and do the discs too. the brake pads are 3,000 miles old.

Read more: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/...-the-problem-here.545717/page-2#ixzz6NS0xCoE6

 

[JohnD]

Wheel bearings as mentioned earlier. You shouldn't be driving it.