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Window board rolled edge 25mm. How to make the rolled edge on the side?

Discussion in 'Wood / Woodwork / Carpentry' started by Jonny Vee, 17 Oct 2020.

  1. Jonny Vee

    Jonny Vee

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    I have to replace my windows board and was thinking of buying some length of windows board and cut to size than machine the side and make it rolled edge as per the front having a nice 45° sharp corner.

    I got a router but never done any rolled edge. is there anyone helping me to understand what the best bit to use and how to set up the machine?

    Many Thanks
     
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  3. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    Block plane or spoke shave then sand to finish.

    Part of the problem with using a router is that you can rarely match the radius of the cutter that has been used in the factory because they tend to be large radii (30 to 40mm not uncommon) and have no flats.Even if you could match it you would probably find that you'll need a 1/2in router to run the cutter. Finally, with a full bull nose profile how do you ecpect to use a cutter with a guide bearing when there is nothing to run the bearing against?
     
    Last edited: 18 Oct 2020
  4. Jonny Vee

    Jonny Vee

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    Thanks for your quick reply.

    What would be the best option to have a good finish?

    Use a mdf sheets and makecsame round everywhere or redo round to the window board.

    Just trying to understand what the best way or toll to use if router is not appropriate.

    Thanks
     
  5. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    Go to a timber yard (not B&Q) and buy MR-MDF bull nose window board from them, it comes in various widths. Cut to length for the window recess including allowances for the "ears" at each end. Cut to the required depth including allowance for front overhang. Work a bull nose edge roughly at each end with the plane or spokeshave. This takes far less time than using a router (in point of fact it takes less time than getting a router out of its' box). Sand to finish required (MDF is very soft and P100 sandpaper will take out minor facets left from the plane easily). Cut the notches on either side, forming the "ears". Fit. Why so much resistance to a bit of basic hand woodworking? This is what a working carpenter would do

    Using a router is slow, cumbersome and error prone in this instance for what is an extremely quick, simple and easy task to complete with a sharp hand tool and some sand paper. In addition you will be left with a large flat (approx 8 to 9mm) in the middle of the edge (necessary to accommodate the follow bearing on the cutter) if you use follow bearing cutters - the only option with a 1/4in router
     
    Last edited: 18 Oct 2020
  6. Jonny Vee

    Jonny Vee

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    Thanks, can have a go

    How much you leave for the ears on each side and how much for the recess, cantilever?
     
  7. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    I generally leave 40 to 50mm overhang for the "ears" and 30 to 40mm overhang at the front. Remember tomeasure back from the face of the wall to the window onboth sides as wi dows are rarely straight in my experience

    I think it is a good idea to use an offcut of MDF to try out your planing skills before doing a real one. Mark the required profile on the edge of the timber and plane down to it then sand to finish (no need to use a sanding block). It might tske you 2 or 3 tries to get the hang of it if you aren't used to using hand tools
     
    Last edited: 18 Oct 2020
  8. Tigercubrider

    Tigercubrider

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    As far as overhangs and ears go, look at existing boards around the house.
    With the recess, I have cut the reveal at a slight angle inwards, to allow easy trimming.
    Maybe make yourself a piece of heavy card / plastic to copy the profile

    Worst case buy the board 30 cm too long and remove just the rolled edge from the offcut, gluing and pinning it onto the edge when done. You're only talking 25mm on each side
     
  9. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    Problems with cutting the bull nose edge off and gluing it back on are two fold - firstly, no matter how you fill it and sand it you will always have witness lines where the pieces are joined, if not immediately then eventually, and secondly short glue joints on end pieces such as these are very prone to failure, either due to moisture getting into the joint (eventually, because after all window recesses tend to have greater variation in both temperature and moisture level) or due to things like mechanical impact or overloading (e.g. furniture being bumped into the ends, kids climbing on them etc).
     
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  11. Celeronmanuk

    Celeronmanuk

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    I've made a load of my own mdf window boards as a large sheet of 25mm mdf was left here. Bought a cheap set of round over bits and pretty much matched the factory bullnose. I've not used the router a huge amount before that. Came out so well I did a oak one too.

    I guess what I'd choose to use would depend on how much length I needed to bullnose.
     
  12. Jonny Vee

    Jonny Vee

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    What size to match 25mm? 1/2 inch or 1 inch? Router set stops to 1/2 if need to 1 inch need to buy it apart.

    Thanks
     
  13. Celeronmanuk

    Celeronmanuk

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  14. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    Except that you can't match a single large radius profile segment by using two much smaller radius profiles with a big flat in between.........
     
  15. Celeronmanuk

    Celeronmanuk

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    I matched this almost perfectly, you'd never see the difference unless you studied it. Got the flat as small as possible and finished with a light sand.

    [​IMG]
     
  16. Jonny Vee

    Jonny Vee

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    Got same radius. Let's try
     
  17. Jonny Vee

    Jonny Vee

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