wiring appliances in kitchens

[Elitepm]

I've raised this query before but I am still not sure exactly what the reg's are.
What is the most acceptable way to provide power for appliances in kitchens?
I've seen flex outlets behind dishwashers/washing machines etc. connected to a FCU above the work top. Also, 13A outlets behind the appliance (sometimes not enough room to do this). Also, outlets in adjacent cabinets off the ring. Finally, outlets in cupboards with FCU above worktop.
I am a kitchen fitter with impending assessment from the NICEIC (just passed part p) and want to make sure that my installations conform to regs.
I have a copy of the brown 16th edition book, but can't find anything relating to this.
All expert help will be useful.

Many thanks

Brian

 

[david1805]

I favour FCU's above the worktop feeding an unswitched single socket behind the appliance.

The problem with flex outlets is that you have no option but to cut the plug off the lead which invalidates the warranty of the appliance in most cases.

 

[RobFurn]

Look in section 53 for safe isolation (mechanical and emergency isolation)
this is why FCUs or switches are placed above appliances with flex outlets or single socket below.

 

[Elitepm]

What about if the appliance is jammed up against the wall ie leaving no room for a switched outlet and a plug? This is why I was wondering if it's ok to put the outlet in an adjacent cabinet. I agree FCU above with switched outlet below is the best.

Cheers
Brian

 

[RobFurn]

The problem with that is when you fill the cupboard with pots and pans and tins of beans or LAGER or whatever it becomes inaccessible

 

[Elitepm]

But surely if the outlet is behind the appliance, it's inaccessible anyway? I'd sooner move a few tinnys than pull my half ton washing machine out!

Your thoughts please

Brian

 

[RobFurn]

It doesn't matter about the outlet behind the appliance the switch above the appliance is providing the isolation and thats accessible.
Hang on are you suggesting placing an outlet in a cupboard thats next to an appliance then providing an FCU above that cupboard? to isolate the appliance?

You say theres no room behind the appliance. Flex outlets are only 15mm ish . Surly theres enough room. Chase it in!

 

[BJS_Spark]

There is always room behind appliances for a plug and socket and they are never to be 'jammed' up against the back of them anyway.
I would never allow outlets of any kind to be attached to the units and should be fixed to the walls as the units are more temporary than the wall even if 'fitted'.

It always seems like a bodge way of avoiding chasing out the walls to me!!

 

[Elitepm]

OK, point taken.
Cheers

 

[Elitepm]

There is always room behind appliances for a plug and socket and they are never to be 'jammed' up against the back of them anyway.
I would never allow outlets of any kind to be attached to the units and should be fixed to the walls as the units are more temporary than the wall even if 'fitted'.

It always seems like a bodge way of avoiding chasing out the walls to me!!

It's just that I've had two cases recently with Miele integrated dishwashers where the only possible place to provide an outlet is at the top near the worktop or at the bottom. The appliance was 590mm deep (allowing for the door frontal) thus leaving 10mm. I chased asingle gang outlet into the wall but having plugged in the machine, the door stood proud. The waste pipe was at the bottom and the inlet at the top. I decided in my wisdom to put the socket in the next cabinet in the bottom corner. This now seems unacceptable.

 

[RobFurn]

Use a flex outlet:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...Mk_Accessories/Flex_Outlets_Plates/index.html

cut the plug off the appliance and wire in to the flex outlet.
loads of space saved by not having the 3 pin plug in the way

If your doing this you will obviously have to havce a switched FCU above the counter with correct size fuse fitted

 

[sm1thson]

or fit deeper worktops!

 

[ColJack]

as pointed out, if you cut a moulded plug off the appliance then don't you invalidate it's warrantee?

also, some appliances come with short leads that make it hard for the more robust amongst us to crawl behind the appliance to plug/wire it in..

I personally prefer to see unswitched socket outlets ( with FCU / DP switch above work top ) fixed to the wall behind the adjacent cabinet with a hole cut into the back of the unit to access the plug should it ever need to be...

for those of you about to say that if i can put the plug through then I can get in to plug/wire it in, I tie a bit of string to the plug and put that through to pull it through later..

wiring to fcu's or flex outs or unswitched sockets behind the appliance still needs fcu's or switches above counter and then you have to drag the appliance out to change fuses etc..


circuit wise..

1 radial for the fridge/freezer - non RCD to prevent nuisance tripping..
1 ring for large appliances ( dishwasher / washing machine / dryer ) - RCD or NON... your choice..
1 ring for above counter appliances ( kettle / toaster / george forman grill / chip pan etc... )
1 radial ( 10mm ) for cooker ( even if gas, might want to change later )

 

[davelx]

as pointed out, if you cut a moulded plug off the appliance then don't you invalidate it's warrantee?

Not usually - if you look in the instruction booklet, usually in a section entitled "For UK Use Only" it probably tells you to do exacty that if the supplied plug is not suitable, and also reminds you of the core colours for fitting your own.

 

[LondonRay]

I wouldn't have thought removing a plug would invalidate a warranty, it's incorrect connection that does, something that's impossible (or covered by warranty) if you use the moulded plug. So "removing the moulded plug MAY invalidate your warranty" but probably won't.