wiring new kitchen

[RF Lighting]

I support a ring on an RCBO for the general power, and a radial on an MCB for the fridge / freezer.

Oh and 20A DP switches above the worktop fed off the ring to power a single unswitched socket for each of the dishwasher, wasing machine etc.

 

[BAGGIES1]

I've always been taught to use rings. Also 2.5mm is so much easier to pull in, especially for a DIY'er.

To the original poster, lose the attitude. As someone in the game it is obvious that you could put yourself and whoever else in a lot of danger. Sparks like these older lads on here are naturally concerned for your welfare, naturally.

Why give a load of s***te when they offer help? You'd be worse off if they said nothing.

I am an apprentice, you learn to appreciate what you are told from these guys even if you don't like it. Especially when you're about to carry out your own work.

Anyway, stick all your kitchen power on its own ringmain using 2.5mm cable, and a 32A breaker. Your breaker needs to match the make of your consumer unit.

The lighting can be 1.5mm twin and earth and can go on a 6A breaker.

The cooker should go on its own circuit, with possible a fuse spur (Connection Unit) at reach height. Use 10mm cable for this.

Lose the attitude before it harms you, good luck.

I've read all the further posts on here and taken it on board.

To those who provided impartial advice. Many thanks.
To those who cry "lose the attitude", i find that slightly blinkered. But enough of that.

Your right!!, i dont have the full design concept of whats required at this point. THATS WHY I'M HERE. I gratefully bow to those with greater knowledge.

I may even decide to get someone in to do it if i'm not 100%. But if i get impartial advice on here i can make that educated decision.

I posted on a rovers car group forum the other week who kindly helped me solve an electrical issue i have with the secuirty system on my car. A few fuses and a soldering fix later i'd saved a packet. (I appreciate that legally and safetywise house electrics are a diff matter).
In fact i've posted on 100's of different forum groups over the years and i gotta admit i've never been shot down like i was here tonight.

Like i said, help is gratefully appreciated. If i'm gonna get knocked at the same time then i wont be able to hear what it is you trying to get across to me.

Good luck with future newbie forum posters. Good luck with the forum.


baggies1

 

[TheGaffersSon]

I've always been taught to use rings. Also 2.5mm is so much easier to pull in, especially for a DIY'er.

To the original poster, lose the attitude. As someone in the game it is obvious that you could put yourself and whoever else in a lot of danger. Sparks like these older lads on here are naturally concerned for your welfare, naturally.

Why give a load of s***te when they offer help? You'd be worse off if they said nothing.

I am an apprentice, you learn to appreciate what you are told from these guys even if you don't like it. Especially when you're about to carry out your own work.

Anyway, stick all your kitchen power on its own ringmain using 2.5mm cable, and a 32A breaker. Your breaker needs to match the make of your consumer unit.

The lighting can be 1.5mm twin and earth and can go on a 6A breaker.

The cooker should go on its own circuit, with possible a fuse spur (Connection Unit) at reach height. Use 10mm cable for this.

Lose the attitude before it harms you, good luck.

I've read all the further posts on here and taken it on board.

To those who provided impartial advice. Many thanks.
To those who cry "lose the attitude", i find that slightly blinkered. But enough of that.

Your right!!, i dont have the full design concept of whats required at this point. THATS WHY I'M HERE. I gratefully bow to those with greater knowledge.

I may even decide to get someone in to do it if i'm not 100%. But if i get impartial advice on here i can make that educated decision.

I posted on a rovers car group forum the other week who kindly helped me solve an electrical issue i have with the secuirty system on my car. A few fuses and a soldering fix later i'd saved a packet. (I appreciate that legally and safetywise house electrics are a diff matter).
In fact i've posted on 100's of different forum groups over the years and i gotta admit i've never been shot down like i was here tonight.

Like i said, help is gratefully appreciated. If i'm gonna get knocked at the same time then i wont be able to hear what it is you trying to get across to me.

Good luck with future newbie forum posters. Good luck with the forum.


baggies1

Now let's all kiss and make up

 

[BAGGIES1]

Ok so in reflection:

A 2.5mm T + E Ring main run off a 32a circuit breaker.
The cable is connected in parallel fashion finally returning to the source connected to the same point it left. The reduces the load on the mains cables. If i choose a radial circuit the cable thickness must be 4mm however the ring sounds preferable.
On this ring i will require 3 double sockets and some "fused outlet units" for fixed appliances. No spurs will be required.
How many "fused outlet units" should i use as i could have upto 6 for kitchen appliances? What is good practice?


The lighting circuit will be moved to the exisitng lighting 6a CB circuit or a new 6a CB. Comments on that one?

The cooker will be supplied by its exisitng fuse (i'm sure this is a 50a fuse but i will check) on 10mm cable to a isolated Cooker Socket box.

All the newly laid wires will be inside partitions but will be "ducted". Sealed "Plastic conduits" within wall cavities, this ok? necessary? slightly inaccurate?

Any new CB's need to match the manufacturer of my existing consumer unit.
All earth cable within wiring boxes must be "sheathed" to provide insulation.
A good desgin idea would be to seperate the fridge/freezer cct on its on mains. (radial should be sufficient here?)

T + E = Two core and Earth?

Hopefully this little more defined and helpful than my first post?

baggies1

 

[BAGGIES1]

Ok so in reflection:

A 2.5mm T + E Ring main run off a 32a circuit breaker.
The cable is connected in parallel fashion finally returning to the source connected to the same point it left. The reduces the load on the mains cables. If i choose a radial circuit the cable thickness must be 4mm however the ring sounds preferable.
On this ring i will require 3 double sockets and some "fused outlet units" for fixed appliances. No spurs will be required.
How many "fused outlet units" should i use as i could have upto 6 for kitchen appliances? What is good practice?


The lighting circuit will be moved to the exisitng lighting 6a CB circuit or a new 6a CB. Comments on that one?

The cooker will be supplied by its exisitng fuse (i'm sure this is a 50a fuse but i will check) on 10mm cable to a isolated Cooker Socket box.

All the newly laid wires will be inside partitions but will be "ducted". Sealed "Plastic conduits" within wall cavities, this ok? necessary? slightly inaccurate?

Any new CB's need to match the manufacturer of my existing consumer unit.
All earth cable within wiring boxes must be "sheathed" to provide insulation.
A good desgin idea would be to seperate the fridge/freezer cct on its on mains. (radial should be sufficient here?)

T + E = Two core and Earth?

Hopefully this little more defined and helpful than my first post?

baggies1

 

[JohnD]

Have you ever experienced deja vu?

Have you ever experienced deja vu?

...On this ring i will require 3 double sockets and some "fused outlet units" for fixed appliances. No spurs will be required.
How many "fused outlet units" should i use as i could have upto 6 for kitchen appliances? What is good practice?

The cooker will be supplied by its exisitng fuse (i'm sure this is a 50a fuse but i will check) on 10mm cable to a isolated Cooker Socket box.

(1) For a kitchen, a good way to do it is to run the ring all round the walls, inside oval plastic conduit, about 150mm above worktop height. You can then put in plenty of sockets and FCUs along it. One every 60cm is not too many. This is very economical in labour and materials. At every position where you have, or ever might have in the future, an under-counter appliance, put a 20A DP switch into the row, feeding a single unswitched socket below. Also put a 5A FCU in this row, feeding a flex outlet next to where you have, or may later have, an extractor fan or cooker hood.

(2) Your cooker MCB is unlikely to be greater than a 40Amp

(3) A cooker switch without a socket is preferable. the socket will reduce the design capacity of the cooker power by 13A. Also, sooner or later someone will plug a kettle into it and drape the flex across the hob so that it gets burned. Also, sockets ought to be on an RCD, and cookers ought not.

(4) If you do not have a split-load CU with plenty of ways already, consider the use of RCBOs.

(5) provide a dedicated 20A radial for your freezer (if you can) that is not on the same RCD as anything else (if at all)

(6) be aware that all your appliances, including the freezer, cooker and under-counters, must have an isolating switch that is in plain view, within 2m of the appliance, and, if not obvious what it does, durably marked.

(7) If you get "the Which book of Wiring and Lighting" or the Readers Digest book, and a copy of the On-Site Guide, you will find they tell you lots of things, and time-saving tricks, and answer questions you didn't know you had to ask. You can buy them or borrow them from your library. They must be version published or revised since 2004, as the regulations changed.

(8 ) Contact your local Authority Building Control dept, and ask what the fees are for inspection of DIY electrics. They ought to have a leaflet. They are supposed to test as well for no additional fee.

 

[BAGGIES1]

thanks