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Working out a overhand on porch roof so wverything fits right?

Discussion in 'Roofing and Guttering' started by Ian H, 3 Mar 2019.

  1. Ian H

    Ian H

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    I’m building a porch and tiling it with double Romans’.

    I want 5 full tiles but if I lay them on the floor one side starts with a flat and ends in a hump and the other side is the opposite.

    If i’m going to use a dry verge kit does it matter if I finish on a flat or a hump?

    And should my facia board finish 60mm from the last tile edge?

    Thanks.

    This is where i’m at, I put a big overhand on it just to hold the plastic sheet temporarily (and I think I ballsed up for a decent facia on the sides).

    D6627495-5E2B-49D6-98F4-FF157E7329E7.jpeg

    4FA98479-1CE3-486A-934F-F9A9B8149F3B.jpeg
     
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  3. acurachris

    acurachris

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    I have no idea, but looking good! (y)
     
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  4. 23vc

    23vc

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    Afaik the verge caps will work wherever you’ve cut the tile so I don’t think that’s an issue. See what you mean about the fascia, you might wanna work out the plan for that before going much further. I’m guessing you want to raise the height of the top of the rafters by either counter battening or redoing the birdsmouths to shift the whole lot upwards and make room for rafter plumb cuts and fascia ... but I’ve only ever done 2 roofs so happy to be corrected by those who’ve got better ideas .... looks great tho
     
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  5. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    You need to start at the verge andro a full tile and work inwards. That will remove your "flat or hump" conundrum.

    Also, that's a massive overhang for a ladder. Consider fitting some metal right angle brackets or suchlike to the noggins to stop the whole ladder dipping downwards after a while.
     
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  6. Ian H

    Ian H

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    Thanks!! We picked a lovely weekend to do it :eek:

    I thought about putting a 2x2 on the rafters but I don’t want the facia on the front to be too big. I was stuck between not building it too high and having a decent angle on the triangle.

    The last 3 rows of tiles on the main roof tip up a bit so I could gain a couple of inches there.

    Ok, thanks. If it stays that big I’ll add a couple of noggins and put some brackets on (y)
     
    Last edited: 4 Mar 2019
  7. Notch7

    Notch7

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    I think usually gable ladders start further back so they cantilever over the gable.

    Im sure some steel brackets or similar would stiffen up as Woody says.

    Im guessing you arrnt having any gutter?
     
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  8. Ian H

    Ian H

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    Yes, going to squeeze one on the side.
     
  9. datarebal

    datarebal

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    Correct, even metal straps will allow a sag in time though.They may prevent the verge falling off but wont keep it in line, Ive dealt with a the same issue very recently
     
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  11. Notch7

    Notch7

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    Would it be much work to move the last rafter back and cut some new ladder rungs. It would make it much much stronger.
     
  12. Ian H

    Ian H

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    Yes, I could move it back easily.

    I fixed a 6x1 on top of the pvc frame and then attached a 5x2 rafter to the top of that, I could take it off, add in another 6x2 and use the 5x2 as the ladder bits.

    On the front edge would you use a full thickness rafter or use a thinner and lighter 6x1?

    27D57A6E-5F9C-4872-ACA5-26613C8118A7.jpeg
     
  13. catlad

    catlad

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    Well better late than never I suppose :confused:
    You should have made the wall plate come out as far
    as the ridge to catch the gable ladder.
    The side windows could have done to be a brick smaller.
    I'm sure it will look good once you have ironed a few things out!
     
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  14. Ian H

    Ian H

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    So if I want to come out 4.5 tiles, that’s 142cm from the house wall and gives a 25cm overhang on the tiles.

    Would I set the overhanging rafter (with facia) to be 136cm out from the house wall? Then my battens and tiles go out the full 142cm so I can nail the dry verge on?
     
  15. 23vc

    23vc

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    The dry verge caps will have a maximum difference in projection between the batten end (same as tile edge) and barge fascia, 6cm sounds a bit on the high side, for klober dry verge it’s 30mm. Any more and you’ll see a gap between bottom of cap and fascia. See http://klober.co.uk/media/uploads/5c1a10371a848.pdf

    So I’d base it on how much overhang you want (as little as poss if we’re worried about it sagging) and just cut the tile closest to the house to whatever width to fit.
     
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  16. Ian H

    Ian H

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    Cool, thanks. 30mm sounds good, i’ll over hand 20mm with the battens and use the metal clips.
     
  17. catlad

    catlad

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    Ian just let the batons fly over by 6" for now and trim them to suit when you start tiling. Why are you using large format
    tiles when your roof is clay plain tiles?
     
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