The stem reducers are 10mm female end to 15mm male stem end - they are called reducers
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Would this be possible?
- Thread starter bettz1
- Start date
I ended up getting the 10mm reducers, for the coupler as the 15mm were too big.
I'll watch a few vids as I've not used this type of connections
The hot and cold supply pipes coming out the wall look like they are 10mm and the ISO valve is 15mm. So the female socket end of the reducing coupler is 10mm and the male end going into the ISO valve should be 15mm
I think I understand now yes the pipe is 10mm.
Im off again to screwfix to pick some flexi taps up as I can use the shorter ones once I've done the new pipes.
Once again You're a Star
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Can I just check are the 15mm pipe supports supposed to go in? It looks abit tight and I thought I'd check.
Or is it ok to just use the ISO straight on with olive?
It's got me slightly confused as the picture looks like it's got a pipe connector in
Or is it ok to just use the ISO straight on with olive?
It's got me slightly confused as the picture looks like it's got a pipe connector in
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No - As you can see from the end of the stem it has the ridges that act as the rumble end to ensure proper insertion, if it was going into another HEP push fit. That's why the inserts have those ridges so the fitting can be twisted and you feel the rumble of the fitting, that shows it's fitted all the way in.
No need for the insert as the stem end is thick enough
No need for the insert as the stem end is thick enough
Thank you yes saw the metal end and wasn't sure.
I've cut the pipes, the cold is still a problem but it fits just underneath the waste pipe going to the trap.
I might have to change the pipe at the bottom from going to the corner towards the front
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I know it’s a pain, but could you redo the waste to be centre of the hep pipes?
Yes I've had abit of a play and come up with this...
Hoping it's okay I'm going to weld the bottom 45s but can't do the rest until the tiles are done Friday.
..... and please don't use PTFE tape on the threads of the ISO's. It just screams of a DIY faux pas, it adds nothing in terms of a watertight seal. The water tight seal comes from the olive being compressed between the nut and the fitting so if PTFE tape is needed that's where it goes, not the threads.
Just on the pipe, not in the fitting. You can roughen the surface up with a quick rub of 120grit and twist as you insert for max coating. Mark the pipe with a dot off a tippex pen on the fitting and pipe, when it's all dry fitted together with the basin and trap in place. That way when you take it apart to glue it you know exactly where it all needs to be when gluing, as that's a one shot deal.
After painting the radiator black,can we switch the current tvr to a black one? Is it just a case of getting a 15mm one?
Our current one is a myson petite
Other than changing it I can paint it and maybe use a white pen to keep the markings.
Our current one is a myson petite
Other than changing it I can paint it and maybe use a white pen to keep the markings.
You can change the whole valve to a black one, if that's what you mean. You can't just get any black TRV head and it's guaranteed to work, unfortunately TRV's aren't all made the same.
I wasn't sure how to do it and would I have to drain the system? Or can i isolate the water and change them?
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