Edited

[First-time-buyer]

Edited. For more information PM.

FTB

 

[ColJack]

RCD on the house CU?

know all about cable depths etc?

contacted the LABC and notified them re-part P?

the council will come and test the circuits for you since you'll have to for part-P anyway...

it will in the long run be cheaper for him to get a registered sparky in because then he's not got to pay the part-P notification fee..

 

[bernardgreen]

Untitled

• bernardgreen
• 8 Mar 2009
• 10

Die cast aluminium box.

SWA glanded into the bottom of the box, cores extended through hole in top of box into plastic consumer unit. Hole in box has a grommet.

 

[holmslaw]

..

 

[ColJack]

banjo..

 

[flameport]

The short piece of T+E is not needed. The outside junction box is not needed either. Just take the SWA directly to the CU, possibly using a metal box as shown by bernardgreen, or direct into the CU.

3 core SWA is not needed - 2 core will be fine. The outer armour for 6mm will have a csa of at least 22mm. Even accounting for the fact it is steel, it is still much larger than the 6mm cores.

SWA will not have red or yellow cores - it will either be brown and blue, or brown, black and grey for 3 core.

 

[First-time-buyer]

Edited. For more information PM.

FTB

 

[bongos]

The circuit wont be notified under Part P, the installation wont be tested either.

Could come back to haunt you as the one putting the circuit in! As it sounds like your not really keen to do the work, why not just tell your mate that he should go the way of a qualified electrician...

Sounds like he's put you in an awkward position with this work. Is he aware that he'll have problems selling the property later if he has this work completed without notifying it? It seems for the cost of a few quid now it would be a better idea to get a spark to complete the work...

 

[RF Lighting]

I did consider cutting the outer armour away, and leaving the outer black cover in place, unit it reached the consumer unit through the trunking. This leaves it doubly insulated via the black stuff, and the outer cable covering.

Good grief.

Call an electrician.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The circuit wont be notified under Part P, the installation wont be tested either.

I did consider cutting the outer armour away, and leaving the outer black cover in place, unit it reached the consumer unit through the trunking. This leaves it doubly insulated via the black stuff, and the outer cable covering.

in a former life i was an electrician.

You were right to give it up.

 

[First-time-buyer]

Edited. For more information PM.

FTB

 

[First-time-buyer]

Edited. For more information PM.

FTB

 

[flameport]

Not notifiying this work will mean that you or your neighbour is breaking the law.

If by 'council house' you mean owned by the council and the person living in it is a tenant, it is highly likely they won't be allowed to do this type of work themselves anyway.

c) Installing a installation, that is safe, untested (professionally) but with the advice from you lot.

If it hasn't been tested, there is no way to know if it is safe.

If your neighbour wants to break the law, hang extension leads out the window and assemble circuits from a random selection of obtained parts, THEY are the one who can take the blame when it all goes wrong.
This job is a mess. Don't get involved with it.

 

[rssteve]

also im pritty sure you cannot use old colour cables so it will not be red and yellow anymore.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

A 10mm T&E cable sticking ot of the wall outside, with no idea where it runs or how it is covered,

So no idea if it is safe to use, no idea what it's capacity is, no idea what its loop resistance is, no idea what it's IR value is and no idea if it runs in safe zones or not.

Terminate the 10mm end in a IP65 box, then the other end ideally into a metal clad unit, but we dont have one of these. Instead its a Plastic 4 way 63a 30mA rcd unit.

So get a metal one, or a metal box to mount adjacent to the CU.

I think the best way to terminate this has been discussed above, but also you have continually informed me that this runs within Part P, and should be notified to building control etc.

Doesn't matter how you terminate it, or whether you do a good job or not, it still comes within the scope of Part P, which applies (as do all of the Building Regulations) to any work whatsoever on fixed electrical cables or fixed electrical equipment located on the consumer’s side of the electricity supply meter which operate at low or extra-low voltage and are—
(a) in or attached to a dwelling;
(b) in the common parts of a building serving one or more dwellings, but excluding power supplies to lifts;
(c) in a building that receives its electricity from a source located within or shared with a dwelling; or
(d) in a garden or in or on land associated with a building where the electricity is from a source located within or shared with a dwelling.

Well, the house is a council house, I shall tell him that he needs to inform them, and to have it tested. But as this chap is more likely to simply run an extension lead through the kitchen window, something is better than nothing.

Not your problem. But you could always report his lawbreaking to the authorities.

When the coucil upgraded the consumer unit to a split load board, they chopped the plug off the lead, but he has simply put another plug on the end.

Tell the council.

So, what is worse.?

a) Leaving it as it is now
b) Himself attempting this installation
c) Installing a installation, that is safe, untested (professionally) but with the advice from you lot.

d) Doing what you know is a poor quality, illegal and possibly dangerous job.

Walk away from it.

In short, ive been requested to attempt this, in a former life i was an electrician, and the person who asked me to do it is aware that i cannot do the work anymore, but still they ask.

Tell them to **** off.