More than just "reasonable".
Removing switch/socket box extenders
- Thread starter KnightWhoSaysNi
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Why?
"Reasonable" used in that way implies a degree of validity of an opposing belief, it admits the possibility that you might be wrong to expect whatever.
You wouldn't say "I would consider it reasonable to expect that teachers would not torture and abuse their pupils". You wouldn't say "I would consider it reasonable to expect that doctors would try to help their patients, not poison them".
As far as I'm concerned the use of surface accessories like that without an explicit discussion with the client, and without an explicit written agreement that that shall be done, unequivocally falls short of the standards of work a customer has a legal right to receive.
You wouldn't say "I would consider it reasonable to expect that teachers would not torture and abuse their pupils". You wouldn't say "I would consider it reasonable to expect that doctors would try to help their patients, not poison them".
As far as I'm concerned the use of surface accessories like that without an explicit discussion with the client, and without an explicit written agreement that that shall be done, unequivocally falls short of the standards of work a customer has a legal right to receive.
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Here are the 2 products I've got:
1 gang
2 gang
I've tested the 1 gang one and it works with the light switch in one of the bedrooms, which is a ceiling fan with LED bulbs.
I didn't test it with the fan isolator switch. It's wired differently: all 3 wires - live, neutral and earth are wired to the switch, but from what I understand I can just wire live in and live out to the switch (it only has 2 terminals), and wire the remaining 2 pairs together (neutral with neutral, earth with earth) as only the live needs to be switched and the other 2 can be permanent.
The 2 gang one won't work for what I need (it's 1 way and I need 2 way in the landing), I'm returning it.
Its a pity you did not look at the product questions on the Amazon site:
Q: Is this suitable for 1-way and 2-way switches?
A:
Nope! One way only. Unfortunately it seems there is no 2 way version of this product, which is a shame. Many similar alternatives (search "2 way glass touch") but not with the nice light bulb symbol.
Amazon Customer answered on 06 December 2014
Until yesterday I didn't even know there was such a thing as 1 way and 2 way. I'm learning as I go.
Last edited:
Have you looked at the lamp in the dark when it's supposed to be off?
No - an isolator switch must work on all 3 conductors, or it is not an isolator.
The manaufacturer of the fan may advise a 3-pole (or 'all-pole') isolator but, in a TN installation, BS7671 would regard what the the OP is suggesting as being adequate isolation, wouldn't it?
Kind Regards, John
Yes, in the 'off' state the blue light comes on.
I need it for a heat recovery extractor fan, which doesn't have an on/off switch. It has a pull cord, but that only changes speeds.
I wanted to be able to switch it off when I didn't need it running constantly (e.g. in the summer), and this new switch - whether it's technically an isolator or not - should be okay for that purpose. Moreover, it has a timer, so when the bathroom needs to be rid of excess humidity or smells quickly I can just set it to run on high speed for either of the preset durations (3 or 9 minutes) and forget about it.
Bad, bad, bad idea - please do the learning before you do any more going.
I didn't read it properly - I assumed it was isolating both permanent and switched line.
It appears that some utter numpty has used it to isolate the cpc.
I meant the ceiling light - don't be surprised if it glows faintly or flashes now and then.
Have you checked that the switch is suitable for a fan?
Will double check tonight, thanks.
No, what would be the possible reasons that it might not be?
FYI it's rated for up to 300W.
If it's not suitable I'll use it elsewhere in the house. I'm planning on replacing all 1-way light switches, there are at least 2 others remaining.
An electric motor is a fundamentally different sort of load to a light, and even if the fan motor is under 300W the switch might not be suitable.
Check with the maker/seller, before you find out the hard way that it isn't suitable.
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