More than just "reasonable".I would consider it reasonable to expect that with buried cable the fittings would be flush ones.
More than just "reasonable".I would consider it reasonable to expect that with buried cable the fittings would be flush ones.
No.Maybe - but the absence of any discussion, let alone documentation, would seem to make that view at least open to question.
More than just "reasonable".
Here are the 2 products I've got:If you post a link to the particular product you're considering, I'm sure the experts here will advise you of any potential problems that you may not be aware of.
In particular, some of these switches limit what sort of lights you can use or only work if your switches are wired in a particular way.
The 2 gang one won't work for what I need (it's 1 way and I need 2 way in the landing), I'm returning it.
Until yesterday I didn't even know there was such a thing as 1 way and 2 way. I'm learning as I go.The 2 gang one won't work for what I need (it's 1 way and I need 2 way in the landing), I'm returning it.
Its a pity you did not look at the product questions on the Amazon site:
Q: Is this suitable for 1-way and 2-way switches?
A:
Nope! One way only. Unfortunately it seems there is no 2 way version of this product, which is a shame. Many similar alternatives (search "2 way glass touch") but not with the nice light bulb symbol.
Amazon Customer answered on 06 December 2014
Have you looked at the lamp in the dark when it's supposed to be off?I've tested the 1 gang one and it works with the light switch in one of the bedrooms, which is a ceiling fan with LED bulbs.
No - an isolator switch must work on all 3 conductors, or it is not an isolator.I didn't test it with the fan isolator switch. It's wired differently: all 3 wires - live, neutral and earth are wired to the switch, but from what I understand I can just wire live in and live out to the switch (it only has 2 terminals), and wire the remaining 2 pairs together (neutral with neutral, earth with earth) as only the live needs to be switched and the other 2 can be permanent.
The manaufacturer of the fan may advise a 3-pole (or 'all-pole') isolator but, in a TN installation, BS7671 would regard what the the OP is suggesting as being adequate isolation, wouldn't it?No - an isolator switch must work on all 3 conductors, or it is not an isolator.I didn't test it with the fan isolator switch. It's wired differently: all 3 wires - live, neutral and earth are wired to the switch, but from what I understand I can just wire live in and live out to the switch (it only has 2 terminals), and wire the remaining 2 pairs together (neutral with neutral, earth with earth) as only the live needs to be switched and the other 2 can be permanent.
Yes, in the 'off' state the blue light comes on.Have you looked at the lamp in the dark when it's supposed to be off?I've tested the 1 gang one and it works with the light switch in one of the bedrooms, which is a ceiling fan with LED bulbs.
I need it for a heat recovery extractor fan, which doesn't have an on/off switch. It has a pull cord, but that only changes speeds.an isolator switch must work on all 3 conductors, or it is not an isolator.
Bad, bad, bad idea - please do the learning before you do any more going.I'm learning as I go.
I didn't read it properly - I assumed it was isolating both permanent and switched line.The manaufacturer of the fan may advise a 3-pole (or 'all-pole') isolator but, in a TN installation, BS7671 would regard what the the OP is suggesting as being adequate isolation, wouldn't it?No - an isolator switch must work on all 3 conductors, or it is not an isolator.I didn't test it with the fan isolator switch. It's wired differently: all 3 wires - live, neutral and earth are wired to the switch, but from what I understand I can just wire live in and live out to the switch (it only has 2 terminals), and wire the remaining 2 pairs together (neutral with neutral, earth with earth) as only the live needs to be switched and the other 2 can be permanent.
Kind Regards, John
I meant the ceiling light - don't be surprised if it glows faintly or flashes now and then.Yes, in the 'off' state the blue light comes on.
Have you checked that the switch is suitable for a fan?I wanted to be able to switch it off when I didn't need it running constantly (e.g. in the summer), and this new switch - whether it's technically an isolator or not - should be okay for that purpose. Moreover, it has a timer, so when the bathroom needs to be rid of excess humidity or smells quickly I can just set it to run on high speed for either of the preset durations (3 or 9 minutes) and forget about it.
Will double check tonight, thanks.I meant the ceiling light - don't be surprised if it glows faintly or flashes now and then.Yes, in the 'off' state the blue light comes on.
No, what would be the possible reasons that it might not be?Have you checked that the switch is suitable for a fan?
An electric motor is a fundamentally different sort of load to a light, and even if the fan motor is under 300W the switch might not be suitable.No, what would be the possible reasons that it might not be?
FYI it's rated for up to 300W.
Check with the maker/seller, before you find out the hard way that it isn't suitable.If it's not suitable I'll use it elsewhere in the house.
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