electrical conduit for wiring

I think you need serious help mate, still here month after month trolling, what you get out of it no one knows. I can live with it but it's very offputting for new members.
Hang on a minute.
What part of the video was the neat idea?
Why don't you explain what you mean in a way that I can understand it ?

At the moment I don't have a clue what you're going on about.
I admit I struggled to see what was so hard to comprehend about "what part of the video was the neat idea?"

But I tried to explain what he meant by "what part of the video was the neat idea?" in a way that you could understand.

OK - maybe I failed, but trolling? You think I posted an inflammatory, extraneous, or off-topic reply in order to sow discord by starting a quarrel or upsetting you or provoking you into an emotional response?

Really?

At this stage I do truly wonder if you can understand anything.
 
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I'm curious to know whether anyone else does this?

hood conduit.JPG
 
foul-mouthed abuse is unwanted.
I thought the video generally showed how to chase walls and fit boxes - quite tidy work really - apart from the wood chisel. A good video for DIYers, makes a change not having fancy power tools which a DIYer wouldn't have.

The title of this topic suggests the conduit should be focussed on. Nothing new with using conduit, round or oval. Conduit or capping makes a good job.

No conduit fittings fitted to the box, but then again not really essential.

Maybe the op likes the idea of fitting all the boxes and plastering first, then the wiring can be added later. This would be useful if a DIYer does the chasing, and an electrician does the wiring.

I too was wondering "where's the neat idea ?" It's more or less what I've always done, because that's how my dad taught me to do it.
But if you use white oval, you have a lot less chasing to do into the brick (which in our house is 'kin 'ard and really hard to chase into without knocking the plaster off the other side of the wall). A set of nibblers opens a hole up to allow the oval to fit into the box.

I see two advantages for using conduit (if done properly) :
1) it allows easy adds/changes - especially useful for a DIYer re-wiring the house a room at a time as you decorate.
2) it allows a bit of slack to be left under the floorboards, meaning that mistakes while preparing the ends and fitting the accessories are less of a problem.

Question : Can I run 2 x T&E in one conduit, so that I don't have to chase as much out the wall?

Will 2 x T&E fit into a 20mm oval AND 20mm round conduit? I would like to know the answer to this.

How far should the conduit be inserted into the back box and through the grommet? Or is no grommet needed if the conduit is used?

Can you please provide an online link to where I can find conduit fittings.

Please if you can answer my questions specifically. Thanks chaps.






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Unless you're really set your heart on it, or really enjoy chasing walls, either use flat conduit or just plaster it directly into the walls. You can shove the flat conduit into the box to avoid damaging the sheath but personally it takes about 3 second to add a grommet.
The only time I'd want to use round stuff would be if it was exposed cable in a high risk area. Some people use short bits to line up sockets.
 
This is the plan of the rewire for the bedroom. I'm about 40% of the way having run the cables.

rough plan.jpg


see pictures:

the tripple sockets proposed location :

3 sockets + cat5.JPG

sockets at far wall :

IMG_0886.JPG


Corner (1 x double):

IMG_0887.JPG


what you are seeing is where I want the double tv socket to go (the black and white coaxial cables).

This double socket will be staying where it is.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

All sockets to be 450mm up from floor.

The ring for the room will be given it's own MCB (fitted by spark).

I just need to know if there is anything I've done here which will void building regulations, because I will be having it signed off once completed and the connections will be made to the C/U by a sparky.

I hope this is pretty much self explanatory.

Still not clear on whether one 1x 20mm oval will fit 2 x T&E ?
 
If the board is long you may be able to prise it away from the wall enough to easily chase a channel. Bit of making good the filler over any nails that have to be re-driven afterwards and there you are.

This is the experts way of wiring behind skirting boards.
 
This is the experts way of wiring behind skirting boards.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with easing a skirting board away from the wall a bit so that the wall can be chased more easily, and damage to the top edge of the board avoided more easily.

It cannot always be done, which is why I said "... may be able ...", but sometimes it can.
 

Hi EFL thanks for the feedback. Yes you are right it's unecessary but I'll justify what I've done for the following reasons :

a) it's a small room, scale is difficult to show
b) I'm not that fussed about a few extra metres of cables
c) it saved me having to lift the boards in an area which was very difficult

It could look better, fair enough, but is it ok from a regs perspective?
 
And you have the gall to accuse me of trolling.

Will you explain why what you wrote there is a reasonable response?

Because you never contribute anything that is of use.

Only a few months ago I posted about a problem where I found metal conduit in the wall with old cable that was deteriorated. You, as well as one or two others tried to make me believe I needed a new ****ing rewire for all the lighting in the place, costing thousands. Sure enough with the help of my spark mate we re-chased a few cables, earthed the boxes, and I could close up and decorate.

You are just here to try and keep people ignorant, and keep sparkies in work. You DELIBERATELY don't even write proper english to make what you write unintelligible from a laypersons perspective. You need reminding it's a DIY forum and this is a DIY electrics sub forum, people come here to learn not to have regulations barked at them. The soonest possible opportunity you tell someone to go and pay a professional person to do it, whatever they may be doing no matter how small, I've seen you do it repeatedly. I think you think you know it all, and there's nobody on here that can match your knowledge of electrics, you're wrong. Not only that, the way you project yourself makes me resent having to talk to you at all. So that's my problem with you. I have the courtesy to actually answer your question honestly and clearly, like you never do to me. So now I've been clear can you stop posting in my thread, because I didn't come here for a fight, I want to get on.
 
Yes, it's just pointless.

The second cable is just not necessary.

Use a 25A or 20A MCB for the single 2.5mm² cable, or
4mm² cable with a 32A MCB.

I'll see what I can do to re-run it. I managed to loosen one of the boards on that side but it's solid oak T&G and I caused a bit of damage to the lip. Half the board disappears under the skirting so I'm keen not to have to damage it. I might have to put it down to learning experience this time.
 

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