Pitched Gable Roof

Building Control will require a structural engineer to design a timber ridge beam anyway taking into account the loadings, roof pitch, span, width of extension/span of rafters - none of which anybody on here knows yet anyway :!:
 
I read his requirement as a beam - a vaulted ceiling with no joists tying the rafter feet together. Having said that, purlins haven't been mentioned yet.

I see no mention of vaulted ceilings, just, do the rafters need attaching to the wall of the end of the building and can he use a 6 mtr ridge in timber..
No mention of spans or pitch ..yet
 
Probably steel at 6m. We have used both...

Are you setting the board as low as possible (while maintaining a valid birdsmouth on the rafter tops) in order to be able to build it in properly on the gable end block work? As opposed to having it sit higher up, just perched on top of the gable? Gotta do my garage soon.


Edit: the beam not the board :eek:
 
Are you setting the board as low as possible (while maintaining a valid birdsmouth on the rafter tops) in order to be able to build it in properly on the gable end block work? As opposed to having it sit higher up, just perched on top of the gable? Gotta do my garage soon.


Edit: the beam not the board :eek:
I position the beam according to my rafter top BM. In other words, I cut the rafters first including the top BM being careful to leave a 'meaty' amount of rafter and not an overly deep BM.

I then put all the rafters in place and offer the beam up to the slot. It lands where it lands. Being near to the top of the gable isn't a problem as the beam itself offers stability as do the rafters. Its a two-way thing.
 
Central restraint strap’s a good shout.
Do you fit the barge rafter before bricking up the gable outer skin? I didn’t last time but most of the ones I see being done, they seem to. Not sure how that makes things easier
 
Central restraint strap’s a good shout.
Yeah, seemed to be the best place for it.

Do you fit the barge rafter before bricking up the gable outer skin? I didn’t last time but most of the ones I see being done, they seem to. Not sure how that makes things easier
Fitted it after we bricked up but I wish I'd taken more care.

I have given my lad a bit more leeway with building stuff and allowed him to erect the roof after I'd cut the rafters. Turns out he'd used a twisted rafter along side the inner gable. This resulted in some of the ladder noggs being out of kilter which made retro fitting the barge rafters a reet PITA.

Moral of the story: always check the alignment of the noggs before packing them with mortar or at least leave a gap so that you have some wriggle room. I'm tempted to just fix the barge rafters in future and work around them when I'm building the gable.
 
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I then put all the rafters in place and offer the beam up to the slot. It lands where it lands.

What keeps them in place before the beam arrives? Do you lash up a frame to float the timber top plate in mid air, or just the action of the rafters leaning against each other?
 
What keeps them in place before the beam arrives? Do you lash up a frame to float the timber top plate in mid air, or just the action of the rafters leaning against each other?
I use a scaffold board or some lengths of timber fixed across the WP's a temporary 'joist' restraints, to prevent the plates from spreading. I also pin the rafters together to keep them paired. I secure a batten to the rafter tops to keep the spacing. The lateral sway is not a problem as this can be rectified once the beam has gripped the rafter.

Offering the beam up can be tricky if the BM cuts are snug, as it wants to push the rafters up rather than slip into the notch. I use a hammer to ease the beam in by tapping on the reluctant pair. I then plumb the rafters up before the beam is fully home by tapping the rafters laterally or swaying the beam.
 

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